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Originally Posted by theclay
OK....first off...i haven't posted in forever...been really busy.
For about the past year we've been having problems with the brake pedal going dead...once it was a leaky fitting...next it was air in the lines...then we realized that our mechanic put in DOT 3 brake fluid from the start since he didnt know about the importance of using the girling/castrol. So we finally figured out that the brake fluid was causing the problem. We rebuilt the master cylinder and flushed the system thoroughly with the new fluid. That fixed the problem for a while...then i lost pedal again. When i did have pedal it was pulling to the right, so we suspected the right front wheel cylinder as being the problem, since it had not yet been replaced from the beginning. I replaced that, and that solved the problem temporarily. Now we are back to the same problem. I need to rebuild all the wheel cylinders.
Long story short, the parts houses have the kits, but they list them as being front and rear specific. Is there any real difference between the front and rear cylinders other then the way the fitting is cast?
Besides that...anything else i could try to fix the brakes...?
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If you can strech to it dont rebuild the cylinders as in my experience it never lasts long however the same can be said for cheap pattern parts,if you can get them genuine lucas/girling/lockheed components should be used for the extra cost is worth the trouble,ensure the brake cylinders are fitted the correct way up dont laugh ive seen it on a lwb!!!
Secondly general rule of thumb for series brakes 109 lwb 2.6/1 tonne fronts are the biggest followed by standard 109 fronts then 109 rears which are the same as 88 fronts then 88 rears,a small number of landrover brake master cylinders can only be bled with a compressed air brake bleeder although I find this to be most effective on all landrover vehicles.
