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Thread: guard cutting
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Old 06-13-2007, 07:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
Thor
Solihull Society, CO and High Desert Rovers, NM Member
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p76rangie
So you are recommending that you restrict your articulation so the tyres won't hit. That would fix the problem, wouldn't do much for off-road though. The D1 arches are tighter at the rear of the rear guards than a classic.

Thor, what is the uncompressed length of your springs?
Nope... just telling cico what's on my rig. It seems to do pretty well on the trails.

Land Rover used bump stops in to limit upward travel... for the size tire they decided was appropriate as they built them. So yes I guess I am limiting upwards movement so I don't have tire to wheel well contact because you can't stuff a 33" tire in a space designed for a 29" tire. However, I gain under diff clearance with the larger tire and with softer springs with 3 dead coils that do stretch a bit, longer and angled rear arms, cranked front arms and no anti-sway bars my axles articulate easier and further away from my wheel well. So essentially with my lift I'm really just moving the range of motion I already had down 3.5" away from the frame and wheel well. I wish I could stuff them as deep as the stock tires but physics says no, as two objects cannot cannot occupy the same space at the same time.

I have seen rigs set up like you're thinking. No lift 37" tires and just about riding on the bump stops. I agree... bad idea... except for mall-terrain vehicles.

Didn't know that about the D1 rear wheel well, I guess he'll have to trim, I'd guess less than he's thinking if he's considering flares.

Uncompressed length. Can't remember. Safari Gard dual rate stage 2 springs.
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