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Old 06-05-2005, 04:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
k12
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Carlisle, PA
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I cant speak on the smoke issue, but can provide some cursory info on the sunbroof issue. (I appologize in advance, as I am a poor typer and marginal speller, and will not proof this prior to sending).

Sunroof problems are common. I do not understand the entire system, but have "fixed" my front sunroof, which was inopperable when I purchased my '98 d1 w/158k approx. 3 months ago (now has 168k). The previous owner advised that the front sunroof had worked fine for the whole time, then started to act up intermittently, then stopped working all together. He then just didnt bother to get it fixed.

When I received the disco, if I pushed the open side of the front sunroof switch, I would hear nothing. If I pushed the close side of the button, I would hear a slight, brief noise, which seemed like something locking.

The first thing I wanted to do was verify that my sunroof tracks were not seized. To do this, pop out the small rectangular plastic cover out of the headliner, directly infront of the sunroof glass. Under that, there will be a small allen key recepticle. It takes a 4mm allen key, which you can turn one way or the other to open and close the sunroof manually (good to know if it goes out with a rainstorm coming). Use the 4mm allen key to verify that the tracks are not seized. It will take some pressure, but use the longer side in your hand for maximun leverage, and it will open/close. If you have one sunroof which is opperable, you can compare the resistance from the good on with the bad one. For mine, the rear one worked, so I compared and they both had the same approximate resistance.

Once you have done this, next you should verify that the switch is not bad. This is easy if one of the sunroofs works and the other doesnt. To do this, pop out the sunroof switch area, the two switches and the rear lockout are housed in this. Transfer the wiring for the bad sunroof into the known good switch and see if it works. If not, then put the known good wiring into the bad switch and see if it operates, it likely will, and if so, you have eliminated the switch as the culprit. If not, the switch is bad and should be verified by trying a known good switch from the rear switches.

If you know the tracks are not seized, and the switch is not bad, then you need to remove the front overhead console. It is only 6 or so screws, and the headliner does not need to come down. Once you get the scews out, disconnect the wiring from the switches, from the light and from the grarge opener. Then place the overhead console out of the way. This is the only place it gets hairy. The sunroof ecu needs to come out. It is the square with two sets of wires coming out of it which is screwed into the roof. The two screws are on either side, and cant be dropped because they will fall behind the headliner, making their recovery very difficult. Once you get the ecu out, the two connections need to come out as well. They are very tough to get out, I had to use a very small flathead screwdriver pushed between the coupling and the housing, and a pair of adguystable pliers pulling on the pluh. Once you get them out, the last thing to disconnect is the power supply to the sunroof motor, which is in front of the sunroof, with the 4mm allen key in the center.

Once all the connections are disconnected, use rubbing alcohol and a q-tip to clean all the terminals. Once clean, then apply bult grease/dialectric grease to the connections and replace all the parts, starting with the sunroof ecu. Unfortunately, there is no way to accurately test the sunroof operation while the parts are out of their final place. I am not sure why, but from personal experience, what wouldnt work while testing the switch when all was out, worked fine after all was installed. So once reinstalled, start the vehicle and give a go right away. If it wont ope it, open it with the allen key, then try to cloase it with the switch. If still nothing, either the motor is shot/and or the ecu card is blown. If it closes fine, but just wont open, and the switch has been verified as operational, then it is the ecu.

If you are like me, it will work fine. I did this (except for the bulb grease) and it worked fine for about a week, then same ase before, i.e. would close (once opened manually) but not open. I then did all the same, and also applied the bulb grease, and now has worked more or less flawlessly for two weeks. Once I pushed the front open switch and it didnt work. I then pushed the rear open switch, which opened both the front and the rear. Thereafter, working fine. I think my ecu card is on its way out.

Good luck and let us now how it goes!

Kieran


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