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Originally Posted by p76rangie
Elemental, In your case a little knowledge has proved to be dangerous. You attempt to overcomplicate things to impress others. You need to keep it simple.
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I'm not trying to impress anyone, I'm trying to educate the willing. You aren't willing to be educated, so just ignore it.
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Basically, the rating of the oil is determine by its shear factor. However, there are other factors to take into account though. Firstly, if the oil can't get through the engine when it is cold, there is going to be no protection.
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Yes and no. Think oil will hang on longer then thin...But, how big do you think these gaps are for Petes sake? However....A 200 degree engine is a 200 degree engine regardless of ambiant temp, no?
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Therefore the climate and the cold weight of the oil is important. Secondly, Shear factors are determined by the weight of the oil and the pressure that it is under. Therefore engines with higher oil pressures can run lighter oil and still maintain the shear protection.
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You need 10 pounds per 1,000 RPM...Any more is a waste, and sometimes harmful. Picture getting hit with a garden hose and a fire hose. The garden hose is a nice cool stream on a warm day..... a fire hose is used for riot control. Pressure isnt as important as quanity.
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Thirdly, oil thins as it gets hot. If you going to run the oil temp high due to climate and the type of work you do, the high temp rating becomes important.
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If your engine is running hotter then 210F, shut it off! It doesnt matter how cold it is outside, or hot. If your running that hot, get a new radiator.
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Finally, the age of the motor is important. As stated, the oil pressure is an important factor. As the motor wears the gaps where the oil can escape (bearings, etc) become larger. Therefore thinner oil will escape more easily and will not maintain pressure through the whole system and will not circulate fully.
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Again, 10 psi per 1,000 is all thats needed. Second, at 200-210 degrees F, the oil is thicker, no? Again,How big of a gap are we talking for petes sake. You do know that your bearings prevent metal on metal wear from cenfrifical force..The metal rides on a coat of spinning oil.... .ANd, even when the oil leaves a bearing, is it not replaced with more oil, you know, from the pump?
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Therefore, you should start using thicker oil as it gets older. So you might get away with 10w oil for the first 100,000km, then you might want to consider 15w oil up to 200,000km and then 20W oil above 200,000km.
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If the oil is doing its job, there will be almost no wear. So, at 200,000 it should have the same thickness bearing as 100,000, No? If not, your oil isnt preventing wear, is it? If your bearing gap is increasing over 100,200,300 thousand miles, what is the point of the oil? If there is not metal on metal contact, as a proper oil will do....Whats to wear?
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Finally, get a reputable brand that use quality components in the oil. There is really not much point is using full synthetic in a Rover V8, but you should not use the cheap and nasty stuff either.
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Brand means nothing. Fucking Castrol "Syntec" isnt even sythetic.
Again, be happy in your little nugget of knowledge, and ignore what someone else knows because you cant put your ego aside to listen to someone you dont like.
Nothing like letting Testosterone get in the way of common sense.
