Quote:
Originally Posted by p76rangie
For those that may be reading this thread for some info on oil, rather than the entertainment, .
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I'm reading it for both reasons. Well, That and somebody mentioned popcorn.
You're both way smarter than I'll ever be when it comes to the science of oils, and I agree with Gordo, at least as it pertains to my advanced years and capacity to absorb more info, It's more info than I need. I stick to the same philosophy I was taught when I got my first car; use the best oil you can get, and change it, and the filter as often as driving conditions dictate. There was a time, in my struggling youth, that I bought what was on special, but now I avoid places like Walmart like the plague, and prefer to use what engine manufacturers recommend, instead of what discount chain buyers get the best deal on. If I take a few drops of oil on my fingertip, swirl it for a minute on a piece of clean sheet metal, and it leaves a swirl, it's dirty.
I will simply add to the conversation that bearings that show anything but pure babbit, as in even a trace of copper color showing, are shot. What I made my living at was metalurgy, and I can say, having looked at them with more than a million dollar investment in labratory equipment, Land Rover manufactured camshafts are not heat treated to a case depth nearly as deep as those manufactured by people such as Isky, Crane, and nearly every US car manufacturer would use. This is as much a function of the metalurgical property of the steel, as it is the heat treat process. I have been saving for a rainy day project, and old Buick 215 18 bolt block and set of heads. While I'm sure I won't reuse them, I also have the cam and lifters that came out that engine. They are as fresh and unworn as the day the were assembled. I can only surmise that this is due solely to their chemistry and heat treatment. There's no difference in the oil pump and distribution on this 40 year old engine and that of all pre'96 Land Rover engines.
