Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyRover
A vac gauge and compression tester will be going along. For the sake of diagnostics I'm willing to believe them that the vac is low. They say it needs a new set of injectors and a cam replaced. The cam only has 15k and ran fine for a few months before the problems set in. I think we can both agree if with the decline of ZDPP that a cam shouldn't fail in that time frame. But if you have ideas I would like to hear them 
|
Cam could fail if not ran in properly, but I was more leaning towards the cam timing being out. That is, fitted wrong, slipped a tooth on the chain, etc.
Even with wrong injectors, the O2 sensor should simply tell the ECU to leave them open longer to get the fuel levels back up.
I am not sure from the post as to what problems he is left with. Did the new injectors fix the bucking and not starting problem?
Is the only problem that he has left is with it overheating? If so, what does this mean?
There is also a big difference between low vacuum and low compression.
Faulty alternators have also been known to fry every electronic component with high voltage. I know that they have replaced various electronic components, one at a time, but a faulty alternator can fry multiple units and switching one at a time might not find it.
I am not sure when he states that they replaced the fuel sender whether they replaced the O2 sensor, but if you have a spare one, I would take it.
Take a torque wrench as well. As the cam has been replaced, it means that the intake manifold has been off. If not fitted properly, they can settle over time and actually become loose. This would cause a vacuum leak (low vacuum) and a number of other issues. So you could check the torque settings on the intake manifold.
Trying to work out what is wrong with a car over the internet is impossible. I can only give you ideas based on the information provided.