As stated, it's all pretty straight-forward...but if you're like me (god help you)...you may end up going out of your way to screw something up!
I'd start with the flush and oil change. You can
either drain out the oil and refill it with ATF and let it idle for 20 minutes to flush the motor
OR use some off the shelf engine flush
for the next three oil changes.
I took the off-the-shelf approach myself. Pop out the drain-plug, drain the oil, replace the filter, refill with fresh oil and you're done with one thing.
Changing the differential fluid is another easy task. The Rover engineers were nice enough to provide drain plugs that really facilitate getting the old fluid out.
2 plugs and the differentials are empty. Pop the plugs back in and refill with fresh gear oil. I had a little bit of a time with this because I didn't have an angled nipple on the end of my gear-oil bottles, so I could only tilt the bottle up so high before no more fluid would flow. I had to keep transferring more fluid into the bottle. When I went to do the tranny fluid I bought a pump...yes I know Mike says a pump isn't needed but it worked out well for me. I'd really consider using it for the gear oil as well because the pump was pretty stout.
Transmission...again a drain plug is provided. If you opt to replace the filter, it's 6 bolts holding the pan on and 3 torx bolts holding the filter and pick-up tube to the valve body. The only pain in the neck part about this is the tranny doesn't have a dipstick tube that you can use to refill the tranny fluid. The fill hole is actually in the front face of the pan. Mike has said that you can use tubing to refill but I just used the pump.
The front driveshafts on these rigs are some sort of a thing to fear. Most of them do not have zerk fittings and there have been some stories about the driveshaft failing and destroying everything in its path. The recommended course of action is to have the driveshaft rebuilt. Many guys have done it themselves and said that it isn't difficult to do. I don't have a press or even a bench-mounted vice so I opted to have a full-time-mechanic friend do it. Once he learned that it had a cardon joint he didn't want to touch it and had me take it to an axle shop. This ended up costing me $250. Some guys have reported that the parts are less than $100 for the job. The parts list that I came up with was considerably more. U-joints were approximately $40 each from a Rover speciality shop (x3 = $120) and the stuff needed for the cardon came to around $45 with shipping. $165. Also, this is NOT something you want to screw up.
The plug wires are a pain in the butt. Someone posted a walk-through on another rover site about bending a screwdriver to facilitate the removal and installation of the wires. Unfortunately I didn't see this before I attempted the install. It's actually not too bad if you have access to someone with small wrists (i.e. wife, girlfriend, teenage son etc.) In hindsight, the way I would approach the job now would be to remove each wire from the spark-plugs individually and label them with the cylinder # using a sharpie marker. After this is done, remove the wires from the coil pack and reinstall the new wires on the coil pack doing the bottom row first. The wires on the top row interfere with access to the bottom row.
Most Discoveries I have seen on the road have some type of allow rims. You can probably do a preliminary inspection of the brake pads without even removing the wheels. If you just want to be safe, buy some pads and replace all of them. If you've done a disc-brake job before it shouldn't take you more than about an hour to do all 4-wheels. On Mike's advice I put disc-brake quiet on the backs of the pads despite them having the built-in rubber shims just to keep everything nice and quiet.
hope this helps to some degree.
