Okay, a month or so ago, time flies when you are having fun, we had a code and replaced the right O2 sensor then the tach started sticking and we had some other problems. Replaced the alt, plugs (old plugs looked normal for old plugs), wires, rotor and cap and fuel filter (we had an acceleration problem that the fuel filter cured) and air filter and oil and filter, cleaned and checked the ground connections I could reach easily.
Cleaned and then replaced the IACV (aftermarket Chevy part) and it moves, the old one did not. Checked the ohms on the coolant temp sensor for the EFI and it is well within range on the three temps I checked. Cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner and checked for vacuum line and intake leaks.
Battery has some low cells as with a hygrometer (spelling?) but it cranks fine and starts fine cold, might be cranking a little longer than in years past? But not really sure on that...
Now the problem: A hot start from about five or ten minutes after shut down to about the bottom of the arc it cranks, sometimes fires, sometimes starts and shudders and in a minute or two will start running fine or die and then will not start until cooler as in about the bottom of the white arc on the gauge.
Today after cleaning and using dielectric grease on the EFI coolant temp sensor my wife went to town. After about five miles got a 14 code, coolant sensor EFI. Cleared it when my wife got home and ten minutes of running did not get it back.
Next guess in my opinion is the Ignition Amplifier (after looking for it I found it near the coil...). Going to check the connections and see what else I can think of. Saw some tests for the coil on the internet but I can not seem to find them again. Volts across during cranking? Replace the battery? Replace the coolant temp sensor for the EFI? No current codes but still not starting right hot! Going crazy...
'95 Classic, 4.2 LWB, 275,000 miles
