Best way to fix RUST?

[PanamaDisco]

I just purchase this 98 D90 as I stated on another thread (My D90 )and I’m looking for some advice. I decided to strip down some parts of the interior to have a look and check for rust and for my surprise I found some rust on the floor panel when I removed the floor trim panel. What options/advices can I get to remove the rust on the floor panels?

In this picture you can see what I’m dealing with, I also think it has some kind of a water leak through the clutch pedal; I have no idea how the water is getting there or from where.
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I was thinking after fixing up the rust to rhino-line the floor,good or bad idea??

[PanamaDisco]

Don't know what happen here are the pics:

[hamiam]

Generally I would do the following:

1. Remove what rust you can by scraping off loose scale and sanding down to bare metal.

2. Apply a treatment like rust bullet, ospho, por-15 or whatever you can get your hands on where you are.

3. Overcoat with epoxy, paint, line-x or similiar.

[ArmyRover]

what he said except I would change number 3 to bed liner

[PanamaDisco]

Originally Posted by hamiam

Generally I would do the following:

1. Remove what rust you can by scraping off loose scale and sanding down to bare metal.

2. Apply a treatment like rust bullet, ospho, por-15 or whatever you can get your hands on where you are.

3. Overcoat with epoxy, paint, line-x or similiar.

Thanks for the tips, right now I'm trying to find a good rust treatment product..its so hard to find something good ! I found a product called CorrosionX but i think is more of a lubricant, any comments on this? what about 3m?

[PanamaDisco]

Originally Posted by ArmyRover

what he said except I would change number 3 to bed liner

Yeah i was thinking on rhino lining, is the only one available in Panama, but they want to charge me $600 for the job! thats crazy, to bad we don't have other options down here like in the U.S...well 3rd world countries has advantages and disadvantages.... off course i can always order them from the states.

[roverandom]

Originally Posted by Panama Disco

Don't know what happen here are the pics:

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That's it? It probably came out the factory with more rust than that. Just clean and paint it, on both sides of the floor and keep an eye on it. No need to get carried away with expensive coatings for that, especially in that location where you can easily see it. Top up, and motor on .

[atvsmurf]

It looks like the problem is originating under the dash, as you can see where water has been running/seeping down...like you said the clutch, so stop that first, then look at using naval jelly or this Eastwood Rust Treatment: Rust Removal, Prevention & Protective Gear then use a wire brush wheel on a grinder, drill or whatever you have to clean it up...paint it with Rust Converter - Eastwood Rust Treatment & Prevention Products scuff it and paint it with regular paint, ...wait a while before you try the bedliner stuff, reason being, if you miss a little rust, it will keep on rusting under the coating, you won't know untill it is too late...

[PanamaDisco]

Originally Posted by roverandom

That's it? It probably came out the factory with more rust than that. Just clean and paint it, on both sides of the floor and keep an eye on it. No need to get carried away with expensive coatings for that, especially in that location where you can easily see it. Top up, and motor on .

thanks, im going to try out POR-15 and motor on!

Originally Posted by atvsmurf

It looks like the problem is originating under the dash, as you can see where water has been running/seeping down...like you said the clutch, so stop that first, then look at using naval jelly or this Eastwood Rust Treatment: Rust Removal, Prevention & Protective Gear then use a wire brush wheel on a grinder, drill or whatever you have to clean it up...paint it with Rust Converter - Eastwood Rust Treatment & Prevention Products scuff it and paint it with regular paint, ...wait a while before you try the bedliner stuff, reason being, if you miss a little rust, it will keep on rusting under the coating, you won't know untill it is too late...

thanks for the tip, a friend is sending me from the states two kids of POR-15 silver and for free ! i only have to pay the shipping so ill give it a try, i was reading the comparison on the link you send me.. i hope it doesn't happen to me although they sprayed the POR15 and i will apply it with a brush and at least 2 coats and then apply the blackcote which my friend is sending me for free too ...and yeah you are right about the liner.

Have you try POR-15 or eastwood products? what about waxoyl and ospho? i ask because eventually i want to order a good product for rust removal, prevention, preparation and all... here in panama there's a lot A LOT! of humidity and i spend a lot of time at the beach so rust is a big enemy and next year i want to strip my truck and cure it from all evil (rust)...thanks again

[atvsmurf]

just get more oil leaks...
I used a similar product, a conversion coating, from a local auto parts store(same stuff) that changes the iron oxide to a black oxide, which is non-reactive, thus ending the rust...anywho I used it on several occasions when I had a body shop, my best testimony is when I used it on my '57 chevy suspension that was pitted pretty bad. I cleaned it all to bare metal, sanded/brushed/grinded off all the rust that I could, sprayed it with the conversion coating, scuffed it, primed it then sprayed dupont's imron on it...
I kept the car for ~ 10 years and never had a problem, I would drive it anytime, even on salty roads in the winter...
the key is proper prep...
the imron was brutal stuff to spray, but it is tough...a really good choice for a topcoat, if you can find someone that will use it...

[PanamaDisco]

Originally Posted by atvsmurf

just get more oil leaks...
I used a similar product, a conversion coating, from a local auto parts store(same stuff) that changes the iron oxide to a black oxide, which is non-reactive, thus ending the rust...anywho I used it on several occasions when I had a body shop, my best testimony is when I used it on my '57 chevy suspension that was pitted pretty bad. I cleaned it all to bare metal, sanded/brushed/grinded off all the rust that I could, sprayed it with the conversion coating, scuffed it, primed it then sprayed dupont's imron on it...
I kept the car for ~ 10 years and never had a problem, I would drive it anytime, even on salty roads in the winter...
the key is proper prep...
the imron was brutal stuff to spray, but it is tough...a really good choice for a topcoat, if you can find someone that will use it...

wow thats a great story...well ill have the POR15 products at my house tomorrow so ill let you know how it went.

[Godlykepower]

Thats not rust!!

Real rust is when your stuck in mud, and when you get pulled out, your cross-member comes off!!!

Defenders are the only vehicles on the market that you can see the road go by....whilst looking at gaps in body panels!!!

Its normal to get rust down there, especially if you do a lot of wading, or you live in a wet & rainy part of the world.

That "rust" (!) looks quite superficial, so just sand it all down, or chop it out and weld in a new section, and then treat with whatever product you have over there. Once you have it all fixed, make sure you have a proper underseal treatment done....Waxoyl everything underneath (whilst your at it, fill up the lowers of your doors with waxoyl to lengthen the inevitable time when you will need new doors.)

When all is done.....lose the carpets in the interior (around your transmission tunnel)....they do nothing to deaden sound, and are impractical in a Defender. Get genuine Land Rover fitted rubber mats, and just kepp 'em nice and dry underneath when you get wet again.

Martin