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#2 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 22
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You will at the very least need the 110 double cab roof and bulkhead. As well as the rear tailgate.
You might try calling craddocks and asking them. Or Foley Specialists as they are quite good in this area.
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2.8 Stroked |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: So Cal
Posts: 29
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Not exactly what you were asking for, but have you seen this?
http://www.copleymotorcars.com/land_...35.3vo833.html
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-Christian- '94 D90 www.ourownway.com |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Bloomfield, CT If I died today, I lived there all my life.
Posts: 2,028
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In my mind, you would be further ahead if you built a 130 CC HiCap. The 110 CC box is so small you can't put anything in it, and the body parts you'll need are the same except the Hicap box, which is more common than the small box. Only hitch is that you will also need a 130" frame (or stretch yours).
All the body parts can be gotten from George Laird, if he ever reopens after Katrina. He didn't get much water damage, he just can't get power and phone back yet. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 96
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I came across this site a few years ago. The only difference is that this crewcab was built from the ground up. It's currently in service at Tawayama Safaris, Inc. You might be able to contact them to see what they can do insofar as a 110 is concerned. This has lots of pictures that somewhat takes you through the restoration/alteration process. Hope it helps.
Tawayama Safaris Inc.
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SCLR |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 1
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I did it 2years ago on a 110 county, the first problem was the roof you need the smooth roof county the ribbed version is too messy as you need a complete roof panel. All i did was got hold of a truck cab off a swb 90/removed the rear side panels from behind the rear passenger doors and cut the existing roof just in front of the roof windows and removed the roof to the rear. We made a cross section to go behind the rear seats to support the truck cab ,then offerd up the tiuck cab to the rear doors and fixed in place/ we then cut the truck cab as near to the front as possible, then cut a panel from the rest of the roof we had removed to fit the gap/the profile is the same. The panel we had cut was then riverted to the remaing front section of roof and to the cut truck cab. It had to be drilled and bolted to the existing side panels. We purchased an old tail gate to fit where the old rear door went and chequerplated the remaining tub and under the truck cab.Never kept any photos but we are doing another this year so will let you know how we get on. The only thing I would say is dont attept on a ribbed roof and the inner roof lining is a pain to cut and fit. The roof jointing is also a bit longwinded and plenty of jointing compound or silicon should be used to stop water getting in. We did cheat on the joint and skimmed with body filler to hide the joint, but looked very neat when complete and painted.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Rebuilding Rover
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: NH
Posts: 1,697
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wow this got brought back from the dead lol....
almost 3 years...
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"Only two defining forces ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom." http://snhlr.org/ 91 Range Rover Classic 90 RRC Parts truck 94 Saab gas mileage beater
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