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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Amherst, New York
Posts: 49
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Picked up my '95 D90 friday and tried the diff-lock over the 6" snow this weekend. For some reason, the light on the dash is'nt going on. When I tried it before I bought it, I believe the light worked. Between then and now, the Land Rover dealer hooked up an aftermarket oil pressure guage and disconnected the oil pressure light on the dash. Would this have anything to do with it? I guess I really don't care if the light works or not, I just want to make sure the diff-lock works. I can't really feel much difference in the steering when the lever is engaged, although I do know for sure that the front wheels are spinning (although, they always spin since it is all time 4wd). Any thoughts?
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Drewfuss '63 Series IIa: parabolic spring packs, 33x9.50 mud tires, Kodiak Heater, Fairey OD (SOLD) '95 Jeep YJ: 8"lift (SOA), 35x12.50BFG Muds, Ford 8.8 rear w/detriot & disc brakes, 4.88 gears, warn8000i, daylighters...... '99 Jeep XJ: 3" Skyjacker, 31x10.50 MTR (SOLD) '95 NAS D90 Wagon, front skid plate, brushguard, Hellas, 285/75 R16 Dunlop Mud Rovers, custom guages & dash |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Romania is my base now but I work overseas
Posts: 192
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Its easy to get to the light and check its connected properly.. It does have to be taken seriously though when the light doesnt come one cos lock wont be engaged if its not on (unless its a fault like you said).
I've got a 1985 90 and when I havnt used Diff Lock for a while it can take some persuasion to get it in and out of lock. If you find the bulb does work then you need to get the linkages services so it selects properly.
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1985 Landrover 90 200TDi Disco engine, Disco rear axle, 2 inch lift and BLACK Recovery Romanian style :-S http://www.youtube.com/xpowerracer yup...its me :-) |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Amherst, New York
Posts: 49
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It seems to shift over fine; I mean, I don't believe it's bound up or anything. It does shift to low and high on the diff-lock side; but since the light isn't on, I really don't know if it's engaged.
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Drewfuss '63 Series IIa: parabolic spring packs, 33x9.50 mud tires, Kodiak Heater, Fairey OD (SOLD) '95 Jeep YJ: 8"lift (SOA), 35x12.50BFG Muds, Ford 8.8 rear w/detriot & disc brakes, 4.88 gears, warn8000i, daylighters...... '99 Jeep XJ: 3" Skyjacker, 31x10.50 MTR (SOLD) '95 NAS D90 Wagon, front skid plate, brushguard, Hellas, 285/75 R16 Dunlop Mud Rovers, custom guages & dash |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Scotland
Posts: 41
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Jack up a corner, start it up and slowly let out the clutch. If the diff is unlocked the jacked wheel will spin when you let the clutch out. Push the diff switch over and see if the vehicle starts to push forward - be ready to let the clutch back in if it does start to go!
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#7 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Amherst, New York
Posts: 49
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yup.
__________________
Drewfuss '63 Series IIa: parabolic spring packs, 33x9.50 mud tires, Kodiak Heater, Fairey OD (SOLD) '95 Jeep YJ: 8"lift (SOA), 35x12.50BFG Muds, Ford 8.8 rear w/detriot & disc brakes, 4.88 gears, warn8000i, daylighters...... '99 Jeep XJ: 3" Skyjacker, 31x10.50 MTR (SOLD) '95 NAS D90 Wagon, front skid plate, brushguard, Hellas, 285/75 R16 Dunlop Mud Rovers, custom guages & dash |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Banned
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: VA
Posts: 914
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I would first jack the rear, to find out if the diff really is locked....If you hear any grinding at all, stop. Most likly, the linkage on the "nipple" at the t-case has "slipped", and you are not getting the full rotation of the lock. If the truck is indeed "locked", there is a wire running into the side of the t-case, on the drivers side (US), near the front. There is a sensor there. The sensor has an adjustment on it. You may try and screw it in a bit, till the light comes on...
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#9 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Amherst, New York
Posts: 49
Gallery:
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As part of the deal I made with the dealer I bought it from, I agreed to pay his asking price as long as everything on the vehicle worked. I contacted him and informed him that the light was not working; thankfully he agreed to have it fixed even though it was a few days after I picked it up that I noticed it wasn't working. It's sitting at the Land Rover dealer as we speak, so hopfully they'll have it all taken care of by today or tomorrow (with no charge to me
). But even so, I'm a "do it yourselfer" so I'm glad to get the feedback just in case I have another problem in the future. Thanks for the info though! I'm still learning the many differences between my new D90 and my old '63 IIa!! ![]()
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Drewfuss '63 Series IIa: parabolic spring packs, 33x9.50 mud tires, Kodiak Heater, Fairey OD (SOLD) '95 Jeep YJ: 8"lift (SOA), 35x12.50BFG Muds, Ford 8.8 rear w/detriot & disc brakes, 4.88 gears, warn8000i, daylighters...... '99 Jeep XJ: 3" Skyjacker, 31x10.50 MTR (SOLD) '95 NAS D90 Wagon, front skid plate, brushguard, Hellas, 285/75 R16 Dunlop Mud Rovers, custom guages & dash |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 9
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Hi
I have the same problem with My diff Light. I have checked the globe on the warning light panel and it seems to be fine. Hank please could you go into a bit more detail on the adjustment of the sensor in the T-case??? I do not know what a T case is .. but it sounds like this could be my problem. I have checked that the diff locks and unlocks I am just trying to get the warning light to work. Any advice is welcome .. Cheers |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Amherst, New York
Posts: 49
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When I picked mine up from the dealer, I spoke with the mechanic regarding the problem, he said the switch on the transfer case (which is engaged when the lever is moved) had gone bad and he just replaced it. He said it's a common problem if the diff lock isn't used for a long time (the switch siezes up). I guess it makes sense; since it's already 4wd all the time, I'm sure many people don't need to use the diff lock too often. Point is... shift the diff lock in periodically (once a week or two) just to keep things moving and there shouldn't be any future problems.
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Drewfuss '63 Series IIa: parabolic spring packs, 33x9.50 mud tires, Kodiak Heater, Fairey OD (SOLD) '95 Jeep YJ: 8"lift (SOA), 35x12.50BFG Muds, Ford 8.8 rear w/detriot & disc brakes, 4.88 gears, warn8000i, daylighters...... '99 Jeep XJ: 3" Skyjacker, 31x10.50 MTR (SOLD) '95 NAS D90 Wagon, front skid plate, brushguard, Hellas, 285/75 R16 Dunlop Mud Rovers, custom guages & dash |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Spain/Portugal
Posts: 97
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