Steering Vibration - Land Rovers Only

david1 · 05-03-2005, 02:07 PM

HOWZ'T GUYS, I'M NEEDING HELP TO FIND OUT WHY MY STEERING WHEEL VIBRATES SO BADLY WHEN I GO OVER CORRUGATIONS ON THE ROAD OR A BADLY SURFACED ROAD? I BROUGHT THE PROBLEM TO THE ATTENTION OF LAND ROVER AND THEY SAID THAT THERE WAS BACK LASH FROM THE FRONT DIFF. SO THEY REPLACED THE WHOLE DIFF AND THE HALF SHAFTS, AND WHACKED ME WITH A HUGE BILL( AS THEY DO), AND GUESS WHAT? THE VIBATIONS ARE STILL THERE!! SOMETIMES IT'S SO BAD THAT I ALMOST CAN'T CONTROL THE CAR. I DRIVE A 2000 LANDROVER 90 2.8, WITH 100000KM ON THE CLOCK. COULD IT BE THE STEERING DAMPNER? I DON'T HAVE A CLUE. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT!!!!

Elips · 05-03-2005, 02:30 PM

What about when driving on smooth tarmac?
Does the steering wheel jerks when driving in reverse on rough surface?

130CC · 05-03-2005, 08:49 PM

I had vibrations that sound similar to the ones you have. I replaced the steering dampener for a larger unit and also the bushes and bolts in the panhard rod( bar that holds the axel in place) these were worn. I am running larger tires on my truck so this does cause problems in this area.
Adam

Disco · 05-04-2005, 01:37 AM

I'd start with a new steering dampener. BTW, when they changed out your diff and axles did they give them back to you? Probably not? It may not be too late, but I'd get them back as you can always keep them as spares, and it prevents them from re-using them in some other poor unfortunates' rig. Don't laugh, anyone who would convince you to change out your diff & axles, are capable of doing anything.

Disco · 05-04-2005, 01:44 AM

BTW, Elips, I just noticed your Avatar. I thought the war was over in Croatia?

"Gee this new batch of tobacco is good s**t!"

david1 · 05-04-2005, 01:17 PM

i have not noticed any jerking in reverse!! only over bad roads wether it is tarmac or dirt road, it doesn't matter!!

david1 · 05-04-2005, 01:20 PM

no, i did not get the stuff back, but i had asked for it!! they told me that they had to keep it incase they sent out an assesor to check that and what work had been done! what do you mean by (btw)?

SCSL · 05-04-2005, 01:22 PM

Hmmm. 1st check your drive shaft. Also, sounds simplistic but perhaps balance tires ? Either problem could 'transmit' vibrations thru your steering wheel. Replacing the steering damper, as mentioned previously, is always a good idea. The OME dampers are excellent.

TerryS · 05-12-2005, 06:42 AM

You should confirm that your swivel preload is correct. That's usually the source of a lot of steering problems.

Bogatyr · 05-14-2005, 06:35 PM

Yeah, I think Terry is right here, either swivel preload, or if it were a series truck, I'd say check the drop arm off of the steering relay...do Defenders have such a setup.

The other thing you could do is to jack the truck up and rest it on stands to take the tension off of the steering components. Get under there and see what moves too easily...

Bogatyr

david1 · 05-25-2005, 02:00 PM

hi terry!! what and where is the swivel preload. i live in south africa and landrover hare tends to have differant names to parts than the rest of the world!

thanks dave.

TerryS · 05-25-2005, 03:33 PM

Hi Dave,
The swivel preload is the amount of pressure the swivel pins are pressing on the swivel ball. There are shims which are added or removed, beneath the swivel pins. The process requires disconnecting ball joints from the steering arms at each swivel ball, and with a spring scale measure the amount of tension required to move the ball. If it moves too freely, then the top pin is removed and a single shim is removed, replace the pin and remeasure. If more shim removal is required, it may be necessary to remove one or more from the bottom pin also, so that you balance the amount removed between top and bottom pins, until the ball resists movement.
The swivel pins fit into tapered sockets recessed into the swivel ball, and if the tension is insufficient, than the pin becomes loose, in the tapered socket, allowing sideways motion (and vibration) It is necessary that you have a workshop manual in order to perform this procedure, as it gives tension amounts and location to attach the spring scale.
It's a time consuming procedure, about an hour or more per side, but fortunately, not one which is done often (60,000 miles)

Before you begin to make your measurements, the pins should be inspected for uneven wear, as both they and their sockets can wear out if run too loose, too long.
Hope this helps.

05-03-2005, 02:07 PM	#1 (permalink)
david1 Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 7 Gallery: 0	Steering Vibration HOWZ'T GUYS, I'M NEEDING HELP TO FIND OUT WHY MY STEERING WHEEL VIBRATES SO BADLY WHEN I GO OVER CORRUGATIONS ON THE ROAD OR A BADLY SURFACED ROAD? I BROUGHT THE PROBLEM TO THE ATTENTION OF LAND ROVER AND THEY SAID THAT THERE WAS BACK LASH FROM THE FRONT DIFF. SO THEY REPLACED THE WHOLE DIFF AND THE HALF SHAFTS, AND WHACKED ME WITH A HUGE BILL( AS THEY DO), AND GUESS WHAT? THE VIBATIONS ARE STILL THERE!! SOMETIMES IT'S SO BAD THAT I ALMOST CAN'T CONTROL THE CAR. I DRIVE A 2000 LANDROVER 90 2.8, WITH 100000KM ON THE CLOCK. COULD IT BE THE STEERING DAMPNER? I DON'T HAVE A CLUE. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT!!!!

05-03-2005, 08:49 PM	#3 (permalink)
130CC Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Canberra, Aus Posts: 229 Gallery: 0	I had vibrations that sound similar to the ones you have. I replaced the steering dampener for a larger unit and also the bushes and bolts in the panhard rod( bar that holds the axel in place) these were worn. I am running larger tires on my truck so this does cause problems in this area. Adam __________________ " In rivers and bad government the lightest things flow to the top" Johnny Cash

05-04-2005, 01:37 AM	#4 (permalink)
Disco Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,819 Gallery: 0	I'd start with a new steering dampener. BTW, when they changed out your diff and axles did they give them back to you? Probably not? It may not be too late, but I'd get them back as you can always keep them as spares, and it prevents them from re-using them in some other poor unfortunates' rig. Don't laugh, anyone who would convince you to change out your diff & axles, are capable of doing anything. __________________ No hand signals, driver playing with his transfer Knob.

05-04-2005, 01:44 AM	#5 (permalink)
Disco Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,819 Gallery: 0	BTW, Elips, I just noticed your Avatar. I thought the war was over in Croatia? "Gee this new batch of tobacco is good st!" __________________ No hand signals, driver playing with his transfer Knob.

05-14-2005, 06:35 PM	#10 (permalink)
Bogatyr Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: upstate NY Posts: 317 Gallery: 0	Yeah, I think Terry is right here, either swivel preload, or if it were a series truck, I'd say check the drop arm off of the steering relay...do Defenders have such a setup. The other thing you could do is to jack the truck up and rest it on stands to take the tension off of the steering components. Get under there and see what moves too easily... Bogatyr __________________ Current Rover Fleet: 1996 D1 120k (finally on the road) 1970 IIa 88" (the running one) 1970 IIa 88" (parts truck - need any parts?) 1966 IIa 109" (next project...)

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05-03-2005, 02:30 PM	#2 (permalink)
Elips Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Croatia Posts: 8 Gallery: 0	What about when driving on smooth tarmac? Does the steering wheel jerks when driving in reverse on rough surface?

05-04-2005, 01:17 PM	#6 (permalink)
david1 Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 7 Gallery: 0	i have not noticed any jerking in reverse!! only over bad roads wether it is tarmac or dirt road, it doesn't matter!!

05-04-2005, 01:20 PM	#7 (permalink)
david1 Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 7 Gallery: 0	no, i did not get the stuff back, but i had asked for it!! they told me that they had to keep it incase they sent out an assesor to check that and what work had been done! what do you mean by (btw)?

05-04-2005, 01:22 PM	#8 (permalink)
SCSL Wheeler Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,841 Gallery: 0	Hmmm. 1st check your drive shaft. Also, sounds simplistic but perhaps balance tires ? Either problem could 'transmit' vibrations thru your steering wheel. Replacing the steering damper, as mentioned previously, is always a good idea. The OME dampers are excellent.

05-12-2005, 06:42 AM	#9 (permalink)
TerryS Moderator Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Bloomfield, CT If I died today, I lived there all my life. Posts: 2,151 Gallery: 0	You should confirm that your swivel preload is correct. That's usually the source of a lot of steering problems.

05-25-2005, 02:00 PM	#11 (permalink)
david1 Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 7 Gallery: 0	hi terry!! what and where is the swivel preload. i live in south africa and landrover hare tends to have differant names to parts than the rest of the world! thanks dave.

05-25-2005, 03:33 PM	#12 (permalink)
TerryS Moderator Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Bloomfield, CT If I died today, I lived there all my life. Posts: 2,151 Gallery: 0	Hi Dave, The swivel preload is the amount of pressure the swivel pins are pressing on the swivel ball. There are shims which are added or removed, beneath the swivel pins. The process requires disconnecting ball joints from the steering arms at each swivel ball, and with a spring scale measure the amount of tension required to move the ball. If it moves too freely, then the top pin is removed and a single shim is removed, replace the pin and remeasure. If more shim removal is required, it may be necessary to remove one or more from the bottom pin also, so that you balance the amount removed between top and bottom pins, until the ball resists movement. The swivel pins fit into tapered sockets recessed into the swivel ball, and if the tension is insufficient, than the pin becomes loose, in the tapered socket, allowing sideways motion (and vibration) It is necessary that you have a workshop manual in order to perform this procedure, as it gives tension amounts and location to attach the spring scale. It's a time consuming procedure, about an hour or more per side, but fortunately, not one which is done often (60,000 miles) Before you begin to make your measurements, the pins should be inspected for uneven wear, as both they and their sockets can wear out if run too loose, too long. Hope this helps.

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