Wet and cold in Defender

[Toomas]

I am planning to purchase a new Defender 110 Safari Van, which will be my first 4x4. After browsing reviews and forum posts, I have some concerns:

1. "If it's not leaking, it's not raining". How bad it REALLY is? Is there any way to make this vehicle more waterproof? A leaky "expedition vehicle" would be a nightmare in climate conditions like, say, on Kuril Islands, where a heavy rain can last for days while the air temperature is about +10C.

2. Can anyone share experience using this car when it's getting cold, like
-20C -30C? How good is heating/insulation? Are there special modifications available for use in polar conditions?

3. How does it feel to drive long distances, say, 600km without a single stop at 90 km/h by poorly paved highway compared to a big sedan (like Mercedes W126)?

Thanks in advance.

[whistler110]

How bad it leaks depends on how old it is and how much work has been put into it. Mine leaks, but only on my feet and I could fix it if I took the time.

I live in Whistler Canada and it doesn't get that cold (-20 is realy cold for here) but it's a damp cold, and my truck is fine. I only have one layer of foil bubble wrap insulation through most of the truck and I added an electric heater for the back. When it's cold out I wear more gear naturally so the truck is warm enough. Check out the Arctic heater system used on the Wolfs or what the guys in Iceland use. It's a diesel powered heater system for the engine that also adds heat to the interior of the truck.

I prefer my truck to sedans on long drives. It's louder, and I need to fix that but it is firmer and sure footed. Just make sure you get a V8 or TDI, mine is a 2.5NA diesel and 90Km/h is almost top speed for me.

[130CC]

Hay I owned a toyota corolla that leaked worse than my defender but hay I had choped the top off and made it a convertable. No really a four door convertable corolla. The leaking in my truck (Made in 99)is not that bad and it's not a poor just a little leak around the foot so the sole of my shoe is the only thing that get wet. A bout 2 years ago I but sound proofing in and this helps keep in the heat. I like skiing and trips in snow and yes you do have to wear a jumper when you drive in the cold but it's not as if I have ever had to wear gloves. But then it's not that cold in Aus.
I have driven 1440km (mix of highway/dirt) in a day and not had a problem getting out of the car at the other end just a bit batty in the head from the driving. Same as whistler110 its great to drive firm footed and a good response, you know that there are wheels on the car as you feel them turning.
Whistler110 great place to live I was there from 98 till 2000 teaching. Best hills,snow in the world, it just sucked untill spring when the girls came out of hybernation.
Adam

[whistler110]

Ahhh, spring and summer. When you can see the figures that have been hiding all winter in fleece and Gore tex.

[130CC]

It's is almost as good as the beach. Girls in those summer dresses, after looking all fat in there ski suits....

[TerryS]

NAS Defender 110s do not have bulkhead vent, so this doesn't apply to them, unless you have also done what I did. In rebuilding mine, I opted for a new D90 bulkhead as I much prefer having the parcel shelf, and fresh air.
The Vent covers have a formed channel around the perimeter of the inside edge, into which an adhesive gasket is fit. Problem is, the gasket is about a half inch, the channel is about 3/4". Over time, if not right from the start, the gasket is either installed to the inside edge of the channel, or lower edge when thinking of the vent cover, in place, or it gradually shrinks, or slides down. The lip on the bulkhead never even touches the gasket, and there is plenty of room for rainwater, or spray from the hose when washing to blow in. The roll cage brace which passes in front of the vents makes it a pain to get at. It has to be removed (4 bolts) to get in there, left off the vent and replace with proper fitting gasket. I guess the roll bar issue doesn't affect 90% of the Defenders out there.

[Toomas]

Originally Posted by whistler110

Just make sure you get a V8 or TDI, mine is a 2.5NA diesel and 90Km/h is almost top speed for me.

What is the difference between TD5 and TDI?

[whistler110]

Originally Posted by Toomas

What is the difference between TD5 and TDI?

Simply one cylinder, some computers and more power. The TD5 is a Turbo Diesel Intercooled, it's just a newer 5 cylinder version built by BMW. It seems to be a good engine though I've had no experience with it and am going by others opinions. The only drawback seems to be that it is computer controlled and that is not very popular with serious off roaders. The good points are that it's more powerful, smoother, and can be upgraded easier.

Terry: The next time you go to replace the vent gaskets, try using the old Series III ones. I've been told they can be a pain to fit but work much better. It's on my to do list.

[TerryS]

Terry: The next time you go to replace the vent gaskets, try using the old Series III ones. [/quote]

The "next Time" will be this week. I appreciate the 'heads up'.

[1955diesel]

The TD5 was designed before BMW took over and was allowed to continue into production because they had no suitable replacement. It was and still is, built at Solihull. I would call that a Land Rover engine!

[1955diesel]

O.K.
Yes, they all leak a bit when they get old if left to their own devices, this is because the panel fit is poor, the seals deteriorate and if used off road, they are subjected to a lot of body twisting . The good news is that if you are that bothered, you can fit new seals (doors air vents etc.) and go round with a tube of silicon sealant and cure most of them .
Most owners think that the rain leaking in and the oil leaking out are signs of character!

[worms]

In response to Toomas’ original questions.

1 Yes all 110s leak – I’ve had new and old with some that had seen extensive off-road use and others that had never been off good tarmac – all have leaked. Worst offender was fresh from the factory and poured water - the more the dealer tried to fix it the worse it got (that new flat roof fitted from the mid 1990s was never a good idea!). Some good suggestions on this site for how to minimise the water, but most of us just put up with it.

2 Not had one down as cold as you are wanting but well above that you will want to invest in a cab-heater for the back. An electric fan will probably also help the engine run hot enough for the heater to be useful – not sure if this is still an issue with TD5? I once had one that was difficult to start below about –4C but a new battery and an oil change worked wonders!

3 600km will be about the limit of your range without a refuelling stop unless you put in secondary tanks (well worth the investment – but may not be legal where you are). Perhaps its age but I find I can no longer do the distances that I used to – I end up really tired and wound-up after a long day in the Land Rover when I’d still be fresh if I’d taken my wife’s car. But where are you going in such a hurry? A half-hour stop and a stretch of the legs every couple of hours makes all the difference. I am told that a Mercedes front seat fits very nicely into the front of a 110 and may be your best compromise!

[Strazzman]

LANDROVER if it is not leaking it is empty

[xpower racer]

Mine leaked really badly when I first got it (its a 1985 90). The water was getting in on the front edge of the roof top. There is a pretty big catchment area dumping water down the front sloping edge if the roof. I just filled it with Bitchamin and its fine now.. Then a new leak started. I think its comming from the alpine windows in the roof. The water is getting in then running down the inside gutter and driping on me If I I had the choice I'd have a roof without alpine windows and I;d be totally dry.

[Geobloke]

I have 2 leaks in my 1992 D90. The first is on the passenger side (left side) and is due to the seal between the windscreen and bulkhead being a little old! Will be siliconing it as soon as the weather improves! Oh and it fills up the foot well!

The second leak is only noticable when deep wading when water squirts up through the floor panel seal. Other than that Eva (thats her name!) is remarkably leak proof!