Hard Down Shift... Seems Too Hard.

[me.hansen]

I have a 02 Freelander SE. Nice truck. Low miles - only 60K. I've owned it for 7 months and really love it.

Since I bought it, even during the test drive the truck had a nasty habit of down shifting quite hard. This usually happens when I "roll" a stop sign; not stopping all the way but slowing to under 5mph then and getting on the gas again. The truck clunks as it's down shifting pretty hard.

After doing most of the 60k service myself I took the truck to the Land Rover dealership for the trans flush. I told the tech about the sound. He said the trans was fine but the upper rear diff mount was broken. I was extremely happy to learn that clunk was just a $38 part. But after I put it on it wasn't long until I was right back to the clunk, but only about 30% of the force.

As you may know if you don't do the "kickdown" the transmission can get quite angry. I wonder if the clunk broke the upper diff mount or if the broken upper diff mount caused or even worsened the issue.

All of the Land Rover experts I asked about the loud noise even right after I bought it told me "... they all do that." One guy even said, "Every Freelander from the first one to the last one they sold in the US has a really hard down shift every once in a while. You have to learn how to drive it."

I even went out and test drove another Freelander at a Land Rover dealership just to see if that one did the same thing mine did. Unfortunately, it didn't.

The trans flush tech suggested using SeaFoam TransTune in the new fluid, that it would help lubricate the solenoids in addition to everything else. However, he was a lot less forgiving about the whole thing. He suggested, too, that I keep it out of manual mode.

I'm really getting kinda nervous since a transmission job on the truck would cost about $4k. I really don't want to get rid of the truck.

I wanted to post this issue to ask around if I have a problem here or if other Land Rover or Freelander owners experience the same thing. If you have anything to post about it please don't hesitate. Thanks in advance for any info...

[rbutler]

Had you posted sooner (pre-purchase) you would have been advised not to buy a Freelander. I don't know what may be causing your klunk but, as you have found out, the "land rover experts" have blown smoke up your a** about it. Since it was better after the flush, check for leaks and check the fluid level, maybe you are low/losing fluid. Also check the that the new mount has not come loose or broke again.

Not all transmission probs are a $4000 repair. Most, it seems, have been due to a solenoid failure which is about a $150 part. It can be done at home with basic tools but its a bit of a PITA.

[me.hansen]

I assume that the solenoid is on the outside of the transmission? Any help on locating it? I couldn't think of a better solution than a $150 part.

[rbutler]

The info to check if you have a bad solenoid can be found here; MuddyOval.com* Freelander Transmission Troubleshooting
You will need a voltmeter, any reading outside the indicated parameters = bad solenoid. There is another, recent thread with a link to where you can find the shop manuals. You don't need to drop the trans but its still a PITA to do (unbolt/disconnect the trans oil cooler/remove access panel/swap solenoid). Sounds simple but there isn't a lot of room to work down there.

[2002 Freebie]

Was there ever a resolution to this problem, or has it continued?

[me.hansen]

Still does the hard downshift. Planning on going to a Transmission shop on Tuesday. They claim they will pinpoint the problem for free. They are offering to scan the trans and check all the solenoids and the ecu. This shop thinks it is an electrical problem. I just hope it's not expensive.

I will post after the evaluation.

[Disco Mike]

Who changed the tranny fluid and did you buy the new fluid directly from Rover or an auto parts store.
Your tranny can be killed using any ATF other the Freelander specific Rover fluid.

[me.hansen]

I took the truck to Land Rover for the trans fluid. They were only $20.oo more expensive than the repair shop. By the time the repair shop added all the LR fluid into the price I figured to just go to the dealer and get the free car wash.

Still clunks.......