LR2 Hood Switch - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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LR2 Hood Switch

Wife's 2008 LR2.
A couple of days ago it started showing the "Hood Open" warning and since around the same time, there have been instances of the alarm going off at random times, when the car is parked (I'm sure this is keeping the neighbours happy.....).
I searched all the LR2 threads in the archives and found nothing on either the hood switch or random alarms but I did find something in the LR3 Forum (thought I'd check and see if they had something similar) which indicated that a faulty hood switch could cause this problem.
The switch is easy to locate but its not immediately obvious how it is removed. Today I will order a LR2 Workshop Manual (Im assuming they exist) on line but hope that one of the many experts on this forum could help by explaining how to access/remove the switch and if the plug is a simple push-in or has a locking device.
A related question - is it the switch normally "open" or "closed"? (If I know which, I can either short out the wires or leave the plug disconnected to "fool" the alarm system into thinking the hood is closed.)
Thanks in advance.
John.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-04-2013, 02:49 AM Thread Starter
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An update on the "Hood Switch" issue.
Purchased a replacement switch from the nearest LR dealer (good news that the price exactly matches the best I could find on the internet, including e-bay; kudos to LR for reasonable pricing for this component).
Then attempted to remove the existing switch - without knowing the correct procedure, the best I could do was to break off the small tabs that lock it into place to release it from the metal frame across the top of the radiator. There is very little room to work here. Checked the switch with a multimeter when it was off and it was no longer working (i.e. didn't close the contacts) so proved the malfunction.
For anyone who cares, the switch is "NO" (normally open) and so when the hood is closed, the switch is also "closed" (i.e. the contacts connected).
The plug is "locked" into the switch but there is a small tab at the back of the plug, which when depressed unlocks the plug and enables the wires to be easily removed.
Then tried to replace the switch. Damn, it is tight in there. I still need assistance on how to get it into place. I've ordered the Workshop Manual on a CD from the UK but won't have that for at least a week, so if anyone knows how to get more access to the area where the switch is mounted, please, please let me know!
I have the replacement switch (yes, I tested it with the multimeter first to check it actually functioned) attached to the plug and have tape holding the contacts "closed" to fool the electronics, with the switch held away from anything important. After 10 hours, the alarm has not gone off, so I'm optimistic the random alarm situation is resolved but I'll only be confident about that when there have been no instances of it going off for about a week.
At the weekend, I may have another attempt to install the switch and clip it into place, though I don't see how I can remove the panel I need to get off in order to obtain better access, so the job is not yet completed.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-06-2013, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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Second Update....
Confirm I couldn't see how to get the hood switch into place, just not enough access and it appears no one on this Forum knows how to do it either. Hopefully, the CD with the Workshop Manual on it will provide a clue on how to get sufficient access to push it into position.
A word of warning - I was suspicious about what the heat under the bonnet - sorry, hood, would do to the PVC tape (I'd use a "premium" brand, boasting high temperature performance) I'd employed to hold the uninstalled but connected switch "closed" and discovered that, at the elevated temperatures, the tape softened sufficiently for the switch to open and so the alarm went off again.
I'd already planned an alternative and just brought forward the mini-project. I took the failed switch apart (I wanted to see why it had failed and noted that it seemed needlessly complicated for a simple application like this and that complication resulted in its failure) and then removed all of the switch parts, cut away the now unnecessary parts of the moulding leaving just the plug housing with the two pins and the conductors that connected them to the actuating parts of the switch. A fine grinding wheel served to remove the unwanted plastic and exposed the conductors. A salvaged piece of brass from the switch components was then soldered to the two exposed conductors to "short out" the pins. A quick setting epoxy provided insulation over the soldered area and once set, the component replaced the hood switch. Problem temporarily solved and the new hood switch is back in its box waiting for me to find out how the hell to fit it into the radiator housing.
When/if I ever work out how to clip the hood switch into place, this little "shorting plug" will live in the glove box, because I don't trust the design of the switch and wouldn't be surprised to see a similar failure in the future. It would be a ten second job to unplug the switch and substitute the "shorting plug".
If my explanation of what I did was incomprehensible, I took a couple of photos to show how easy it is and I could forward those.
Don't be shy about explaining to this Land Rover neophyte how to reinstall the hood switch if you know how to do it, I won't be embarrassed if I've been an idiot and missed something obvious (an unfortunately common event!).
John
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Closing update - if anyone is still reading this.
The CD with the Workshop Manual that I ordered via e-Bay arrived from the UK arrived and I now know how to install the new hood switch I purchased. However, I don't care (and neither does my wife and it's her car) about a dash warning that the hood/bonnet is open - I've driven for many decades without such a warning, so I think I can survive a little longer without one and the "shorting plug" I made will be more reliable. This will prevent any issues related to that switch and the car alarm system.
Case closed.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 06:52 PM
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Hi 406, this is driving me crazy!
I have had the same issue for almost 6 months now.
I took the car to the dealer and they 'fixed' it ... only for the issue to come back after around 3 weeks.
I cannot find this switch ... could you please take a picture of its location and share it with us?

thank you.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-21-2013, 07:24 PM
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OKAY

I finally found it (its on the right side of the car under the hood hatch).

Do i just cut the two wires going into it and "short" them?

Or do i have to remove the switch?
I tried removing the switch but it was not going anywhere.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-22-2013, 06:47 AM
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finally ... a 'temporarily' fix to the issue

here is a photo sequence of what I did

I detached the 'plug' from the switch and used a wire to 'short' the plug.

This way the car's system sees the 'switch' as always closed.

And the alarm doesn't go off at night anymore

The first pictures shows the area in which you can find the plug. (it right under the hinge opening)
The second picture shows you what the plug looks like before you pull it out.
The third picture shows you what the final 'product' looks like.

I hope this helped someone
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-08-2013, 08:54 AM
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Wow thanks for that post. I have been plagued with this same problem for 6 months and don't want to pay the dealer to (not)fix it. I will try this tonight. It's happening several times a day now and is quite annoying.

Incidentally, I thought that I would just try to disable the alarm system. In the owner's manual, it shows a fuse in the passenger compartment fuse box that is marked 'alarm'. I pulled it and indeed the alarm doesn't work. But neither do the remote controls or the power locks. Doh!
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-12-2013, 07:35 AM
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Manually Lock doors

I have found when I manually lock the doors the alarm doesn't go off. I've had this issue for several months and basically just was accustom to leaving the vehicle unlocked or far enough away when the alarm does go off.
Thanks for posting the work around with the photos, I will try and report back!
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-28-2013, 05:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calldrop View Post
here is a photo sequence of what I did

I detached the 'plug' from the switch and used a wire to 'short' the plug.

This way the car's system sees the 'switch' as always closed.

And the alarm doesn't go off at night anymore

The first pictures shows the area in which you can find the plug. (it right under the hinge opening)
The second picture shows you what the plug looks like before you pull it out.
The third picture shows you what the final 'product' looks like.

I hope this helped someone
It helped me! The alarm went of at 1:00 am this morning (same symptoms as described elsewhere here), and thanks to your post I was able to "fix" the problem and go back to sleep. I got up at 8:00 AM and the car is doing fine. Thanks!
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-29-2013, 05:52 AM
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It has been quite awhile ago and my memory of it is pretty fuzzy, but I had that same issue and replaced the switch and my problem went away and had never come back. Probably over a year and a half ago. Yes, it is very tight working in there, but I managed to replace it. I did break the old one when I was taking it out because I could not determine how the switch locked in place. The locking tab is in the front, toward the grill. Once I got the old one out, and understood how the two pieces were locked together, installing the new one was relatively easy...although the working space is horrendous.

I haven't taken the 08 LR2 to the dealer since the warranty expired, I'm sure they would charge a fortune to fix the hood switch. It was very satisfying to have fixed it myself and saved the money. I wish I could remember more specifics, but like I said the biggest revelation was discovering that the locking mechanism was on the grill side of the switch. I will take a look at it again today or tomorrow and see if I can recall any other information as I look at it again.

John
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 01:55 PM
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OK, guys, this has plagued me for a couple of months. My horn would randomly go off it was armed; i'd get the warning on my dash as i was driving; and i sometime had problems arming my LR2 after reaching my destination.

Following this thread, I decided to hunt down the issue. If you remove the passenger-side headlight (2 screws on top, squeeze plunger behind light, slide light straight out), you'll gain EASY access to the sensor/connection.

There are two pins you need to depress on either side of the sensor (faces the grille) and the whole housing slides down. From here, you can squeeze the clip on the wire side and disconnect the sensor. Jump the sensor as outlined in the previous post.

Slide the other side of the sensor back into place.

Remedy took all of 10 minutes.

m
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 09:36 PM
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Recently started having this same problem. I noticed a note in the display that said "bonnet open" when I put the key in place, so I suspected a switch was the problem. Glad to see this confirmed by others and a simple fix.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-16-2015, 03:45 PM
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I am having this problem also. I wish I had read the whole forum post first so I could have avoided pulling off the entire front grill. Anyway, I called the Portland dealership to see if there was a switch in stock. I was informed that the switch no longer comes by itself. It is now a part of the latch assembly. $49. Still cheaper than having my mechanic replace it. I'll write back when I get the unit installed.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-28-2016, 07:13 PM
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This problem has been happening for the last 8 months or so. I took it to my local mechanic and while he would be able to put a new switch in (I don't mind the $49 part) he said it needs to be programmed by Land Rover to actually associate with the car, which would mean an outrageous cost from the dealership.

Is this true? Just looking to confirm...
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