FIRST THINGS FIRST: I'M NOT A MECHANIC AND YOU PROBABLY AREN'T EITHER, SO ANYTHING YOU TRY IS ON YOUR OWN. IF YOU GET STUCK OR GET TO A SECTION YOU CAN'T DO, GET A PROFESSIONAL! READ ALL THESE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE YOU EVER BEGIN!!
Tools you'll need
1. Mann HU 925/4 Oil Filter (You can get one here
2. 3/8" socket wrench
3. 1/2" socket - for the undercarriage bolts
4. 17mm socket wrench or 1-way wrench - for the oil pan bolt
5. 3/8" to 1/2" adapter - for the 36mm oil filter cap removal socket
6. 36mm socket - for the oil filter cap (Lowes/Home Depot has this for about $8)
7. A 2.5 gallon oil container
8. A bright shop light so you can see what the heck you're doing!
9. Lots of shop towels/paper towels/OrangeStuff hand cleaner
10. Mechanix gloves, safety glasses/goggles
How to Change the Oil in a Land Rover LR2
1. Because of the undercarriage protector plate on your LR2, you'll need to put your LR2 up on wheel ramps. Be sure to put the parking brake on and put some wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Have someone guide you up the wheel ramps to tell you when to stop and GO VERY, VERY SLOW. SAFETY FIRST, CITIZEN:
2. Next, pop open the hood and remove the engine cover and the oil fill cap:
3. Then, get down underneath the engine and you will see SIX 1/2" bolts that hold up the undercarriage plate. Remove all 6 bolts and keep them nearby. Also a good idea to have safety glasses on as dirt and dust WILL fall into your eyes under here.
This steel plate weighs about 7lbs so be sure to have 1 hand free to hold the center of the plate so it doesn't fall on you.
4. As you are sitting under the engine, look directly to your right and you will see the oil pan bolt. This is a 17mm bolt. Here you will want to have a pretty big container to hold all the old oil, so get that and a bunch of paper towels ready.
5. Get a big oil container to house the old oil
6. Slowly unscrew the 17mm oil pan bolt to drain the old oil. This is also a good spot to prep your area with shop towels to catch the oil that's going to go everywhere. WARNING: The oil will be pretty hot and it will shoot out a good 2ft behind you, so wear some Mechanix gloves and be ready to move the oil container to the right spot to catch all of the oil. You will have to slowly move the container closer to the oil pan drain as the oil comes out.
DO NOT LET THE OIL PAN BOLT FALL INTO THE CONTAINER! This is bad thing to do.
In the pic above I had to quickly grab my other oil container because my 2.5 gallon container was 1/2 full already.
7. Wait a good 15-20 minutes to let all of the oil drain. In the meantime, we're going to prepare the engine bay to get at the cleverly hidden oil filter cap:
Here, you need to slowly pop up the power steering fluid container and then set it near the center of the engine:
And then set it to the right a bit to keep it out of our way for access to the oil filter cap:
8. Here is the very huge, very tricky to get to oil filter cap:
9. Now, we need to make ourselves an Official Oil Filter Cap Removal Tool: this is comprised of a 3/8" socket wrench (what most people have), a 10" 3/8" socket extension, a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter for the very large 36mm socket.
I measured the oil filter cap and came up with 35-36mm. A quick drive over to Lowe's and all they had was a 1/2" 36mm socket. I didn't know if this would fit correctly, but it in fact fit PERFECTLY.
10. Slowly lower your Official Oil Filter Cap Removal Tool onto the 36mm oil filter cap bolt and turn counter-clockwise until it gets pretty loose. Once the cap is loose, and making sure the engine is NOT HOT, remove the tool and use your hand to unscrew and remove the oil filter cap, which is connected to the oil filter. It will take a little bit of pull to get it off as the center of the oil filter "grabs" the bottom center of the oil filter container. BE SURE YOU STILL HAVE YOUR OIL CONTAINER UNDERNEATH THE LR2! As soon as you remove the oil filter cap you'll release the pressure holding in the oil in the filter and it will drain (again) into the oil container for another minute or so. AFTER all of the oil has been drained, clean off the oil pan bolt and put it back on the oil pan. Don't over tighten this bolt, but be sure it is TIGHT. Your dirty filter (and filter gasket ring) should look like so:
11. Grab your new Mann Filter (I don't anyone who makes these for the LR2 other than Mann. I got mine on Amazon for about $9/each) and gasket ring, and replace the old filter and gasket ring. The ring just pops right off - if you look closely, you'll see a small notch on the oil filter cap where you can get your nail underneath to pull the gasket off.
12. Look into your engine with a shop light and you'll see where the filter and cap need to go:
13. Fill the oil filter container about 1/2 way with new oil. This is to help the engine move new oil in and not seize it by starting the LR2 with NO oil in the filter housing.
After you've done this, put the new oil filter on and replace it back onto the oil filter housing. I hand tighten clockwise and then use the Official Oil Filter Removal Tool as an Official Oil Filter Cap Tightening Tool until it is fairly tight. DO NOT over tighten as you'll crush the filter. This is a bad thing.
14. Using a spigot fill up your LR2 with 2 gallons and a 1/2 pint of 5W-30. I'm a Castrol GTX guy myself, but pretty much any 5W-30 will do:
15. After you've filled up your engine with new oil, replace the power steering fluid reservoir to its rightful place and put the oil fill cap back on:
16. Put the engine cover back on, check for leaks underneath your LR2, make sure to put back all your tools and clean up the mess you just made (remember cat litter is a GREAT oil pickup sweeping agent), then SLOWLY back the LR2 down off the wheel ramps and let the engine run for a few minutes with its new oil.
After its ran for a few minutes, shut it down and let it rest for about a minute. Then, check the oil level with the oil dipstick. You should be right at the 1/2 point on the dipstick. If not, add a bit more 5W-30 until you get there.
Double check for any leaks and then take your LR2 for a quick test drive around the neighborhood and listen for the soft quietness of a European Ford Inline 6 with NEW oil. (If you didn't know the engine is really a Euro Ford I-6, you do now. This will explain all the "FoMoCo" engine stamps you're going to see on the underside of the engine. Sorry to burst your bubble if you thought "Land Rover" actually made the engine. Don't worry though, the Euro Ford I-6 is indestructible.)
17. CONGRATS! YOU'RE ALL DONE!
And you did it yourself without paying the dealer a bazillion dollars. Take what you would have paid and put in your pocket knowing you just outdid The Man.