need help replacing rear pads on LR2

[m1964]

A few month ago I did front brake job on my LR2 - and had master cylinder failure 3 month later, supposedly because I pushed the pistons back into the calipers without opening bleeders.

I am going now to change rear pads and need advise on a few things:

1. Do I need to clamp the brake hose before opening the bleeders?
2. Do I need any special tools to push the pistons back into the rear calipers?
3. Do I need to open the bleeders in the first place ?!

Thanks a lot for your help
__________________
2008 LR2
2005 XC90

[sundial03]

Just finished mine:
See below:

1. Do I need to clamp the brake hose before opening the bleeders?
NO.
2. Do I need any special tools to push the pistons back into the rear calipers?
LARGE 8" C-CLAMP, JUST PUT ONE SIDE ON THE BODY HOUSING AND THE OTHER DIRECTLY ON THE PISTON AND TWIST THE CLAMP UNTIL THE PISTON SITS BACK INTO THE HOUSING ALL THE WAY. REMOVE THE CLAMP. THE PISTON SHOULD STAY IN PLACE.
3. Do I need to open the bleeders in the first place ?!
NO. JUST MAKE SURE YOU GET THE ROTORS TURNED (ABOUT $35.00 (8.00/EACH, AT ANY PARTS SUPPLY HOUSE.)
ALSO, REMEMBER TO RELEASE THE EMERGENCY BRAKE BEFORE TRYING TO PULL THE REAR HUBS OFF (MAKES IT MUCH EASIER)

[dartfrog01]

This is an EASY repair.
It requires no opening of the system at all or any special tools. Took me about 30 min total this morning on the wife's 08 @ 25k miles.

I'm somewhat pissed about the cost from the dealership and plan on letting LR USA know this.

DO NOT clamp the lines. It could destroy them, esp if steel braid is included in the hose. You will only need to bleed the brakes if you open the system, ie pop the piston out, or have some leak.

GET THE FACTORY PARTS, every thing you need is included in the box. 4 pads, 4 caliper bolts, 4 carrier clips(2 upper/2 lower), and a pictogram instruction set. Also factory parts are backed by factory warranty, fit correctly, and they cannot blame the parts for causing something else to go wrong.

No special tools either, a big c clamp, or large channel lock pliers will do nicely for retracting the piston, 13mm ratchet for the caliper bolts, a thin 14mm wrench for the carrier pin nut (a thin pliers will do fine too these are not that tight), and that is it.

When I get some time later I'll type up the step by step and post it along with the parts # and scan of the pictogram.

best...

[na011]

This weekend I just finished putting on 4 new rotors & 4 sets of pads. I wanted to turn my rotors, but I put the micrometer to them and they were down to the min. thickness as stamped on the rotors. I was surprised @ how thin the rotors were & that the rear pads were down to the bone & the front still had some life in them (~ 6-10 k). Anyway I used the Brake Rebuilding Kit - Front & Rear - Standard Rotors & Ferodo Pads from Atlantic British for $299.95. I was even able to push the pistons back by hand with the new pad in place. However I did open the bleeder valve before I pushed the piston back. I flushed the brake system with a qt. (32 oz) of Brake Fluid - Castrol GTLMA Synthetic. The fluid needed a change after 26 months & 32k miles. LR said change it after 3 years.