2004 CDL kit- complete, new

[Muddy Oval]

$599. Includes everything to convert a DII to the 04 style CDL from the knob down to the bracket at the end of the cable.
All new, all OEM.

[TsiArt]

Originally Posted by Muddy Oval

$599. Includes everything to convert a DII to the 04 style CDL from the knob down to the bracket at the end of the cable.
All new, all OEM.

Will that work in my 1999 D2 ?

I never checked if I have the right x-ferr case .

[Muddy Oval]

It'll work in any DII, provided that you have the CDL 'nipple' on the transfer case. Yours should have it, but check it to be positive.

[TsiArt]

Originally Posted by Muddy Oval

It'll work in any DII, provided that you have the CDL 'nipple' on the transfer case. Yours should have it, but check it to be positive.

I saw it in one of the threads , but I could not make it out in the pic what should I be looking for .

[Hank]

Originally Posted by TsiArt

I saw it in one of the threads , but I could not make it out in the pic what should I be looking for .

this

[Hank]

Instructions, by Paul Morgan.
Ashcroft CDL Install
The OEM CDL kit replaces the existing D2 Transfer Box gear selector mechanism with one with an additional cable run to the top of the transfer box mechanism, where it engages the CDL spigot. You need a gearbox with a spigot to begin with, otherwise it's a non-starter.
Parts Needed:
1: M8 Nylock Nut and washer for CDL Spigot
13: 3/16” diameter x 3/8” length pop-rivets
Apart from the usual hand tools, you may also need something which will cut laminated (2 layer) steel plate, and you'll need a drill with a 3/16” bit, and of course a rivet gun. Recommended items are PB Blaster and Intermediate Level (blue) Automotive grade Loctite.
1) Place vehicle in Neutral. Unclip the gear stick gaiters. Unscrew the Transfer Case Gear Knob with attaching gator. Remove the top half of the main gear stick by pressing the release and pulling straight up. This will require a bit of torque.
2) Remove the plastic gear selector cover. There is a connector underneath that is attached. Unclip the handbrake gaiter from the top, and peel it forwards. Remove the plastic fascia around the window switches and unscrew the switch plate (4 self tapping screws). Document Window and Window lock connector colors; separate and place aside. Remove seat position switch fascia, disconnect switches and place aside. This will allow the center console to be removed much easier.
3) MAKE SURE VEHICLE IS CHOCKED FRONT AND REAR!!! Remove the pin which connects the handbrake to the handbrake cable. Remove 2 screws from inside the cubby box, and 2 screws from just in front of the transfer box lever. You can now start to lift the whole binnacle out. As you do so, disconnect the cigarette lighter connection from underneath.
4) Lift out the thick soundproofing foam around the gear lever area. Unscrew the two screws attaching the bracket at the front of the open area. Peel the carpet back and drill out the 13 pop rivets from the steel plate around the gear levers. STEP 4B is an optional step to facilitate opening up the transmission area for ease of maintenance.
4b) Separate the gear selector assembly by: (1) Loosening transmission cable nut at the transmission gear selector underside the vehicle; (2) remove clip securing transmission cable at vehicle underside location; (3) remove three 8mm bolts securing gear selector base to tunnel floor; (4) disconnect electrical connector at gear selector base; (5) remove gear selector, cable and rubber grommet as one piece. After Step 5; you can now remove the transmission tunnel flooring and see the entire working area.
5) Unscrew the existing Transfer Box shift mechanism from the steel plate. Unscrew the four 8mm bolts slowly due to possible breakage. Disconnect the pin / clip assembly securing the Hi / Lo Transfer Case cable to the existing lever.
6) Look down into the large hole you've just opened up, to find the CDL spigot on the top of the transfer box. It's about a foot down, and is a threaded shaft with an oval profile at the base, in the middle of a triangle of three bolts. Undo the front most and left-hand bolts of the three. Depending on the age of your transfer case, the bolts may be a bit tight. PB blaster is a recommended product to soak the two bolts for proper removal.
7) Take the lever end of the new mechanism and force it down towards the CDL spigot. The mounting bracket will attach to the top of the transfer box using the two bolts you just removed. Clean, apply loctite and torque down the two bolts securing the CDL bracket. The tail of the cable should be running forwards. Attach the CDL selector to the CDL spigot with the M8 nut and washer. Torque down.
8) Depending on your plate, you may need to enlarge the aperture for the gear stick. This can be done by first opening up the hole with tin-snips and finishing off the hole with a dremel tool cutting wheel.
9) Clunk the new gear stick from side to side to see if the mechanism engages. NOTE: Without the attached leverage of the secured transmission tunnel floor; it is easier to manipulate the CDL spigot by engaging the cable by hand as opposed to the selector lever. If you do this with the ignition on, you can see the CDL light lighting up when it's engaged. If it needs adjusting, you can adjust the two nuts either side of the mounting bracket, on the cable which is now mounted to the top of the transfer box casing. Make sure these are tight before you go any further. If there is no light on your display; inspect the CDL solenoid for connection.
10) Line up the new lever with roughly the space it's going to go in when you bolt everything together. You may have to do some shoving to get it in place, as the new cable will get in the way. Reconnect the pin / clip assembly securing the Hi / Lo Transfer Case cable to the new Ashcroft Lever. Put the steel plate back into its hole and get a couple of rivets in to hold it in place. Force the new gear stick into its rightful place and bolt it back to the plate.
11) Once you have four rivets installed; you should be now able to engage your CDL on and off via the lever. It will still be a bit tight due to newness and a loose plate. Begin installation of the transmission gear selector by: (1) replace gear selector, cable and rubber grommet as one piece, routing cable into plate hole; (2) Route cable through vehicle underside support assembly and transmission shifter attachment; (3) Torque down shifter attachment nut and re-install support assembly clip; attach and tighten the gear selector base with the previously removed three 8mm bolts.
12) Finish riveting the remaining holes that secure the transmission tunnel plate.
13) Install Soundproofing Foam around both shifters and reconnect gear selector base connector.
14) Reinstall remaining components in opposite order of removal.

[TsiArt]

hmm it was different pic . maybe i got it confused with something else .

But this is cool . Like it said here I need to find out if I have it first .







Now what was that cable that you install in the dash on the left side of the stering wheel kind of under the instrument panel ?