Off-road disaster and recovery! - Land Rovers Only

williambrea · 07-02-2009, 10:25 PM

Cutting to the chase I had just put 235/85R16's on my 91 rover with a 2inch RTE lift. Reading around here people didnt seem to have a problem with rubbing......

Well I decided to take my car to a pretty decent rut, since I had new tires I didnt use my diff-locks and got about half way up the rut. When I stopped I put it into reverse to back down and get a new approach I was met with the sound of money being thrown into the abyiss. My back drivers side tire was stuck in my wheel well and was prying my plastic stock sill guards up. I went forward and tried to get the wheel out of the tire well but it was too late. I parked it (this is on a 45degree incline) and looked out and too my horror my rear links had been bent up like a freakin pretzel! My tire was jammed inside my tire-well and my diff was about 35-45 degrees higher and my U-Joint was at its very extremes.

I freeeekeddd out! I thought my rover was done for, I thought axles had snapped, diffs self-destructed and dreams for a brighter future shattered.

Well most was true, it was about 8pm and getting dark so I called my dad and brother and had them come and bring the tools I had left in the garage

So what we did is after about an hour of fiddling about, jacked the back of the car up, and we changed the tire! Thank you 6lb 8oz baby Jesus that we had the smaller 245/65R16 tire as the spare. We got the spare on and we opened the back door and pulled the sill off so that the tire wouldnt rub and finally we turned the car around and made it down the hill. I limped home going 5mph and now am plotting my cars new return to conquer the hill!

I know I need some new RTE rear links, and im going to get a RTE 2inch body lift. Anything I should check after having this happen? Im going to get an alignment and have somebody look @ my suspension.

Any other goodies you guys can think of?

Pics are tommorow!

michaels · 07-02-2009, 10:28 PM

just trim the rear fender. look up the "camel trophy cut". a body lift is a bad idea if you ask me.

williambrea · 07-02-2009, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by michaels

just trim the rear fender. look up the "camel trophy cut". a body lift is a bad idea if you ask me.

Why do you think its a bad idea?

DRaider90 · 07-02-2009, 11:11 PM

The to body lift or not to body lift question depends on your situation. People that have tons of suspension lift options usually call it a cheap/hack lift. But in reality a small body lift accompanied by a suspension lift is usually a good combination. And from what I have heard/read RTE has a pretty much complete kit to deal with all the odds and ends.

The odds and ends are really what turn people away from body lifts on some trucks. On my truck I only had to replace 1 coolant hose, that was it. Other trucks not so simple, from reading the RTE write up the Rovers fall in the moderate section. There is a fair amount of stuff to extend/install besides the body lift blocks. But if your main goal is to fit bigger tires it is well worth it. Because no matter what anyone argues tires are the only source of true lift that get your low points (Diff etc) off the ground.

From what is known about your situation the body lift sounds like a good option.

williambrea · 07-02-2009, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRaider90

The to body lift or not to body lift question depends on your situation. People that have tons of suspension lift options usually call it a cheap/hack lift. But in reality a small body lift accompanied by a suspension lift is usually a good combination. And from what I have heard/read RTE has a pretty much complete kit to deal with all the odds and ends.

The odds and ends are really what turn people away from body lifts on some trucks. On my truck I only had to replace 1 coolant hose, that was it. Other trucks not so simple, from reading the RTE write up the Rovers fall in the moderate section. There is a fair amount of stuff to extend/install besides the body lift blocks. But if your main goal is to fit bigger tires it is well worth it. Because no matter what anyone argues tires are the only source of true lift that get your low points (Diff etc) off the ground.

From what is known about your situation the body lift sounds like a good option.

Yea from what I've read the classic isnt too difficult to lift and some people do it themselves and dont even buy a kit! I shudder at the fact of cutting into my car. Also after I removed one of my plastic sills today, im taking off the other one because it definatley makes the car look better and im thinking about making some ghetto rock sliders to take their place. (Ghetto meaning simple lol)

Jupiter Rover · 07-02-2009, 11:23 PM

Because people say so.

I have a body lift.

and MANY people have the 2" body lift on their RRC.

michaels · 07-03-2009, 12:56 AM

just do a mild spring lift and be done with it. much easier to install that a body lift.

antichrist · 07-03-2009, 03:36 AM

The two body lifts I looked at were from RTE and DAP. The DAP was the more complete kit. I saw was, because when I got mine it was about 4 or 5 years ago and RTE may have changed the kit since then, I don't know.
The RTE kit I bought did not include any extensions for the metal frame to body supports, but since I can weld, have access to steel and they are just 'U' shaped steel brackets, I didn't feel the need to spend the extra $200 or so that the DAP kit (which included the brackets) would cost.

p76rangie · 07-03-2009, 04:25 AM

To run 235/85/16 tyres you need a 1 inch body lift. If you are going to try get away with a spring lift, drop the bump stops by 1 inch instead and this will stop the wheels coming up far enough to hit. You also need to hammer back the lip in the wheel arch where it mates to the door. Spring lifts are just a cheap and easy way to attempt to fit bigger tyres, but if you allow your axles to come up to the original bump stop position, it is the same as not doing a spring lift at all. Also MTRs are not mud tyres, they are actually pretty bad in mud. They are mainly for road, rock and gravel.

williambrea · 07-03-2009, 05:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jupiter Rover

Because people say so.

I have a body lift.

and MANY people have the 2" body lift on their RRC.

Im confused? So you say do the bodylift?

Quote:

Originally Posted by michaels

just do a mild spring lift and be done with it. much easier to install that a body lift.

Meh, im kinda leaning towards not doing a spring lift because I just put in new shocks made for getting max flex for my 2inch lift. I have no problem installing a body lift.

Quote:

Originally Posted by antichrist

The two body lifts I looked at were from RTE and DAP. The DAP was the more complete kit. I saw was, because when I got mine it was about 4 or 5 years ago and RTE may have changed the kit since then, I don't know.
The RTE kit I bought did not include any extensions for the metal frame to body supports, but since I can weld, have access to steel and they are just 'U' shaped steel brackets, I didn't feel the need to spend the extra $200 or so that the DAP kit (which included the brackets) would cost.

If I bought a kit it would probably be the Rovertym lift. I dont need crazy amounts of lift, 2 would be perfect and I could probably get away with a 1inch lift.

Quote:

Originally Posted by p76rangie

To run 235/85/16 tyres you need a 1 inch body lift. If you are going to try get away with a spring lift, drop the bump stops by 1 inch instead and this will stop the wheels coming up far enough to hit. You also need to hammer back the lip in the wheel arch where it mates to the door. Spring lifts are just a cheap and easy way to attempt to fit bigger tyres, but if you allow your axles to come up to the original bump stop position, it is the same as not doing a spring lift at all. Also MTRs are not mud tyres, they are actually pretty bad in mud. They are mainly for road, rock and gravel.

Im pretty sure im not going for a spring lift, for just a 1inch lift can I just get some 1inch blocks and put them under the old rubber bushings and not have to do any fiddling with the other things involved with a body lift?

p76rangie · 07-03-2009, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by williambrea

Im pretty sure im not going for a spring lift, for just a 1inch lift can I just get some 1inch blocks and put them under the old rubber bushings and not have to do any fiddling with the other things involved with a body lift?

There is the same amount of work for a 1 inch body lift at there is for a 2 inch. But a 2 inch is not going to give you much advantage unless you are prepared to gut the guards to fit larger tyers on. So if you are happy with 235/85/16's, just do a 1 inch body lift.

Also, if you had a rear locker engaged in those videos, I would say that you have problems with your viscous unit. Those front wheels were spinning way too much for a locked up transfer case.

antichrist · 07-03-2009, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by williambrea

If I bought a kit it would probably be the Rovertym lift. I dont need crazy amounts of lift, 2 would be perfect and I could probably get away with a 1inch lift.

Both the DAP and RTE lifts are 2"

williambrea · 07-03-2009, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by p76rangie

There is the same amount of work for a 1 inch body lift at there is for a 2 inch. But a 2 inch is not going to give you much advantage unless you are prepared to gut the guards to fit larger tyers on. So if you are happy with 235/85/16's, just do a 1 inch body lift.

Also, if you had a rear locker engaged in those videos, I would say that you have problems with your viscous unit. Those front wheels were spinning way too much for a locked up transfer case.

Well I dont have the LT230 but I am planning on getting one soon

Also for the rear links, I found a guy who works on LR's and he had some spare rear links so I welded 3/16 angle iron to the bottom of the rear links very securely so that bending the would be near impossible, only downside is that my articulation is stifled a bit but not to much where its a huge disadvantage.

The stock rear links are just straight pieces right? No slight bends or anything?

William

p76rangie · 07-03-2009, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by williambrea

The stock rear links are just straight pieces right? No slight bends or anything?

They are suppose to be straight. They also changed around the late 80's early 90's. One type will not fit the other.

williambrea · 07-03-2009, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by p76rangie

They are suppose to be straight. They also changed around the late 80's early 90's. One type will not fit the other.

Okay just checking, the ones I put on fit fine and are straight.
Is there any way to mod the bushings on that rear link to get more flex?