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#1 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,819
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When you get to 'MUD' here's what you need to do:-
If the mud can be walked over without breaking through, you’re in with a chance. If you stand on the mud and sink in your boots or wellies, there’s no chance for the vehicle (install chains)! Basically, If you can’t walk it – you can’t drive it! Reducing tyre pressure can help in ‘bottomless’ mud whereas it can make things worse when a hard surface is below the mud Check on foot, the depth of mud or water in the bog hole. Use a wading stick. It can be left in the mud to indicate danger spots such as, unseen large rocks, tree trunks, deep holes etc. Walk down one intended wheel track prodding the ground for depth, and then return down the other track. Set up recovery gear before hand. Attach winch cable to recovery point. Engage diff lock and lockers (if fitted). Select appropriate gear, usually 2nd or 3rd high range depending on the depth of the mud. Too low a gear will dig the tyres into it. If the forward travel is a must and the mud is over a long stretch, deflate the tires to around 20 psi, otherwise, fit chains. Turning on the windshield wipers before plowing through a big mud puddle does help. As you get underway, STEADY POWER and MOMENTUM must not be lost. Keep wheels in tracks of previous vehicles. If no previous tracks, travel on the crown of the road if possible. If the ruts become too deep, dig away one of the sides to help the wheel to drive out where straddling is a reasonable alternative. If beginning to get stuck, swing the wheel from side to side. This works just as well in reverse. If the wheels begin to spin, ease off the throttle. If stuck, try immediate reverse and stay in own tyre ruts. If there is an incline ahead, approach with more speed. If the wheels on one side are higher, the lower wheels will generally have better traction, as they have more weight. Descending steep muddy inclines use:- low range, 2nd gear, lockers engaged (if fitted), chains on. Ascending steep muddy inclines use:- low range, 1st gear, lockers engaged (if fitted), chains on. Use gentle steering inputs, as a heavy correction can cause the vehicle to slide. When you have cleared the mud, check if any mud is caked onto the driveshaft. If there is, clean it off before driving home as it could throw the drive shaft out of balance and cause damage.
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No hand signals, driver playing with his transfer Knob. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC/Boone, NC
Posts: 528
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ditto, but great info!
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AHO Rugby, a drinking club with a rugby problem. www.ahorugby.net "My experience through life has convinced me that, while moderation and temperance in all things are commendable and beneficial, abstinence from spirituous liquors is the best safeguard of morals and health." - Robert E. Lee |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Elephantitis penisitis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,439
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If lockers are not installed in your vehicle, learn to use your left foot simultaneously to tap the brake while your right foot is on the gas. It is good to practicr this prior to needing to do it. The feel you are looking for is how far can you compress the brake pedal w/o engaging the brake. Why you need to learn to do this is to "trick" the truck into transfering power to the other side. CDL will only transfer an equal amount of power to front and back, not to each side - that is what lockers are for. However, if you feel one wheel starting to slip, you can gently tap the brake to transfer power to the non-slipping wheel.
Lockers are for those who cannot think for themselves...just kidding!!! I know, I know, bad roverX.
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What? Is this where I'm supposed to write some profound statement that boggles the intellect of the genius that you think you are? Why would I waste my time with that when I can be getting free lap dances from your sister AND your girlfriend at the same time? |
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