turbine paint systems...

[zed]

Anyone use something like the TP tools turbine paint hvlp systems?
I can find near no info on them...Paint link

Their ad says "most automotive paints" I don't know much about painting.

Looks like a decent product at a decent price.. vs buying a giant compressor and trying to smush it into my tiny rental which i'd have to have wired for 230...

Thanks for any feedback.

[pickuprover]

Do you have web link for that system. Sounds similar to the one at the shop that we use for applying finishes to wood. If it is, it is a great system. Ours even has a fresh air mask so you can spray longer.

[zed]

Paint link

iThey sell refurb models occasionally.. returns.. etc.. get em for much off.
They are popular among other painting styles.. like furniture...

I am not a painter.. I want to be able to put paint on things.. but I've no experience.
Not looking for perfect.. just good enough for the price. Figure if I can get set up for the price of one paint job.. it already paid for its self if I never use it again.. which is unlikely.

Managed to meet the requisites for the G-W economic stimulus money.. and hey.. this system is spozidly made in USA .. would be the "right thing to do" right?

[BullDogSix]

I have an old DeVilbis turbine HVLP...works great, very low overspray! (4-7 psi @ gun) I have used it for woodwork mostly and a couple boats..no probs. I would suggest reading up on spraying automotive type finishes...just search the web...lots of great info. Practice on some other items first too.

[zed]

also looking at fuji

I've got a book and a lot of resources on web. But they dont go into turbine systems. Not typically what the "pro" auto painters use.

I gather you can pretty much spray anything with anything if its thinned properly.. just gets more difficult in certain circumstances.

I also figure. outside of spraying a piece of coroplast in the garage.. the LR is probably one of the best things out there to paint. Take a door off.. its practice time.. I don't have much paint left on the LR so anything is better...nothing to ruin.. and "very realistic" surface.

Pretty sure i'm going to pick up one.. (prolly the fuji.. more info and can get it free shipping, smaller too, and the q4 is quiet they say)
still shopping till the 16th when the govt money comes..

[pickuprover]

Zed. If you can find one with the fresh air system as well, it is well worth the money .There are 2 hoses that come out of the turbine unit which is kept in a fresh air environment. This prevents a lot of breathing in of crap (even with a respirator as most respirators do not fit properly unless you have had a face mask fitting. I had to go through 4 different styles to get one that would seal...). When I am at the shop I will get you the name of the one we use. We went with it because it also keeps the air cool. (one thing to research when you look at them is how much they heat up, as the warm air will affect your paint performance...)

I used it to paint the rover (had to change jets) and it worked beautifully.

Turbines are so much better than air compressed, if they are set up properly. Less water in the hoses, less heat just a better system IMHO.

[XtremeMarine]

Never used the turbine systems, but looks interesting. I use a Binks 2001 for boats, and a Sata for automotive paints. Then I've got a mid-range Snap-On HVLP for primers. I would recommend any of the three. Tossed my Craftsman, IR, and CP guns years ago.

[zed]

Marine.. the systems are not compatible with HVLP compressor guns.. they run at 4-6lbs.. with 50+cfm.

Pickup..
Yes.. I believe the "4 stage" are the extra air ones? I am not sure.

The heat is an issue. Running as long a hose as possible as well as potentially running a retarding agent has been explained.

I also read that you must thin down pretty far to get the proper spray.

I have no idea the specifications to look for.. i'll be trusting web sites..

If you have any input on what difference between normal HVLP and turbine HVLP as far as thinning and such.. be interested in hearing it.
Sounds like it will be thinned quite a bit..


I liked the fuji web site.

TPtools doing buisiness on EBAY doesn't read "quality" to me. Neither does their name of "showtime" paint system.. Makes me think of Ron Popeil.

I hear accuspray and some turbine air.. a couple others are a bit better.. but the price jumps about 500 bucks when you step up from the fuji q4 to something else... (and fuji giving up free shipping to hawaii really perks my interest).

[zed]

Was going to paint the thing the original color.. "pastel green" though I'm not a huge fan.. its classic and I won't have to paint the engine bay et-al to make it look right. Sand glow marine blue and red are being considered though. I plan on taking off the front clip to get the bulkhead squared away.. Its not holey.. but Its not painty either.



Found the below.. and this
Maybe worth a sticky some day..

Description Rover No. DuPont Ditzler Glasurit RM-Supermax Unipart

Pastel Green RTC4041A 38504* ROV-605 RV-028
Bronze Green RTC4042A 38500* 46451 LEY-637 RV-027
Marine Blue RTC4043A 38503* 16514 ROV-504 RV-017 GAP407
Limestone RTC4044A 38505* 46251 RV-040
Poppy Red 38506* ROV-303 RV-029
Sand 38502*
Mid grey 38501*
Burnt grey 38508*
Davos white 38514*
Mexican brown 38519*
Cameron green 38520*
Almond yellow 38521*
Sandglow "Camel Yellow" is also an old Jaguar color
Sand (ACF/004 or 26291)
Artic White

[pickuprover]

Zed. If you happen to know a shop in the area that is doing either autobody, cabinet finishing or high high end boats they might be able to give you a run down on what they use and advantages (one thing is if there are parts available locally, how hard it it to find new jets for a different application.... our jets for the wood products are a lot smaller than the jets for auto paint. I actually had to buy a new set of jets as our guns were set up for water born laquer.) We were lucky when we set up the shop as a good freind of the family owns a boat works company making olympic style racing shells. He sent his paint guy out for a couple of hours and gave us the run down on the different systems, advantages/disadvantages. Then after we had it set up, he came out and gave us a lesson on setting the guns and thinning the paints. The other resource to use would be the high end paint supplier and have them come out and access your needs and they can give advice on what to buy, most of the suppliers have a guy that will do that, hoping that you will buy it from them.

[zed]

I know the guy that used to be the NAPA paint store technical expert. He's the most help. But even being a supplier for decades.. he says no one here even does HVLP.. never heard of turbine. He'll be able to help me. But he's not so close a friend as I'm comfortable asking him to help me out all the time.

There are no salesmen.. there won't be any coming around. Its not really the united states.. Business here is conducted closer to the way its done in Korea or the PI vs THe east coast of the US. No suppliers.. no friendly shops...

Everyone just orders from japan or US.

[zed]

picked up a graco procomp 3800 for 600 bucks.. they MSRP for 1500+ street for around 1200.
Guy that's selling it to me is a specialty paint guy. gave me a "warranty"
"if you ever need help or repairs.. just keep my email or number around. If you need help setting it up for a project, i'll send someone over, no problem."

AND i don't have to pay shipping.

[zed]

SO.. if anyone runs into this..

I've been painting primer. My paint guy says that's the hard stuff to put down pretty. He's against anything HVLP.. " I like to feel the kick" ... whatever.. he had no good reasons to not like it and admitted to not having any idea how to use it.

Anyway.. the turbine has been putting down primer very nicely. I've never painted anything with a gun.. and its come out downright well.

Only problem I've had is trying to scrimp every drop out of my pressure pot. Gravity feed probably be better. I end up spritzing a bit at the end.

AS for "heat" issues. I have not found any. The air comes out cold .. not room temperature or hot.. When adding in solvents its very cold. But of course that is all relative. At any rate. It is working just fine so far. Not drying before it hits or anything. I have been trying very fine sprays at high and low cap pressure. I get different results but no premature drying. And this is primer.

ANy deficiencies are easily made up for by the near non existent cleanup. Very high pressures create a bit of overspray.. but barely any. Nothing like Conventional guns. or even conversion guns i've seen.

Full disclosure statement.
I say I've never painted with a gun.. I HAVE painted with spray cans. I have a whole baggy full of nozzles that i've found that work well for certain paints etc. I have painted cars with spray cans and had people think it was factory style paint. Till it inevitably failed some few months later. SO I'm not clueless on how to apply a spray..

[zed]

Update on the turbine thing.

I can't imagine it being easier or much better.

I have trouble off and on. But i've only shot a few panels. Some come out awesome.. some come out slightly orange peeled.. no worse than maaco. I chalk it up to experience. I am totally not. Then again.. I have the same problem with rattle can paint sometimes.

I think the problem on off days is the reducer. I should be using the slow reducer today. but I'm using the medium. Its hot.. probably pushing 90.. but there's a nice breeze so.. in my garage.. it didn't seem that hot when I mixed it. Out in my tent.. OOOH..

well.. its still well good enough for me it looks good till you really get down to it.. then you can see the orange peel. Did the bulkhead.. most of that is smooth as glass.. those parts that arent are those parts that are just out of reach and get bad form due to me being lazy and impatient.

Took a part down to my paint guy.. He said it looked about as good as he would expect of this paint if he was shooting it. He paints A LOT of cars.

Big difference between BC and SS being .. I live with my orange peel.. others get to sand.
I could actually sand a bit with 2000 according to the data sheet. But its only supposed to be aimed at "de-nibbing" and drips.

I'm going with "minor orange peel is better than no paint at all."

Looking at the body panel that had been replaced on my truck.. its about the same as my panels. And i never noticed it.