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Old 02-25-2006, 02:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Engine Cleaning for any vehicle...

Last night I was talking to one of my college buddies about engine management, maintenence and other stuff. One of the topics we discussed was a method of cleaning the internal cylinder by using water. I was obviously baffled by this. So I asked him to continue about this method.

Here's how it goes:

You get the engine up to operating temp. You find a vacuum hose that goes to the intake, like a hose no bigger than 3/8" in diameter. You take the hose leaving one end still on the intake. Then you hold the RPM's at 2000-2500 RPM. Taking a small cup of water, you would gently put the vacuum hose on the surface of the water, gently sucking a little bit at a time. After doing this for a while your engine will be clean, clean from carbon on the piston and other stuff on the valves.

Has anyone else seen this or done it on their Rover before?

Looks a little risky, like I don't wanna hydrolock my motor.
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"Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006)

1995 RRC LWB

-LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
-RTE 2" Lift Springs
-Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises)
-KMC Front Diff Guard
-4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting
-Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone)
-2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights
-Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar
-Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel
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Old 02-25-2006, 03:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The water will end up boiling off before it gets there and it will obvious misfire.
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Old 02-25-2006, 03:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yes, like the steam from that will do the cleaning action of the process. And my friend said there will be a slow misfire.

i'm just wondering if any one here on LRO has done it or know someone else that has. Apparently, he said he has done this a few times on his truck, with supposidly great results.
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"Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006)

1995 RRC LWB

-LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
-RTE 2" Lift Springs
-Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises)
-KMC Front Diff Guard
-4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting
-Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone)
-2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights
-Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar
-Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel
-T-Case out of an 92' RRC
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Old 02-25-2006, 03:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Once you pass anything else through an intake besides air, things are BOUND to go wrong!
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Old 02-25-2006, 03:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Which is why I have not done this method yet. I know that if water gets into the intake, you'd get rust issues in the cylinders and sh$t. If there is proper way to clean the cylinders, I think, it would be a way through the use of fuel additives, and/or oil additives, like fuel system cleaner, or Engine flush.
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"Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006)

1995 RRC LWB

-LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
-RTE 2" Lift Springs
-Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises)
-KMC Front Diff Guard
-4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting
-Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone)
-2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights
-Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar
-Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel
-T-Case out of an 92' RRC
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Old 02-25-2006, 04:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It is better to clean up the internal engine slowly. Too much water on an engine with too much carbon can cause a really bad engine knock whis will then set fault codes..
If your goal is to clean up the engine, start by always using supreme, do a engine crank case with a good engine flush, change your oil and filter then you start on the cleaning process.
Buy 3 cans of SeaFoam or a 3 pack of B&G's additives 24K, induction cleaner and throttle body cleaner.
One can of SeaFoam goes in the gas tank, one in the crank case, and one thru the induction system, also use some carb cleaner to clean the t/body.
If you are using the 24K, put that in the tank, the induction clean thru the induction system and clean the throtle body.
After you do this, let it sit for 1/2 hour then go drive it hard, it will smoke for 10 or 15 minutes.
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Old 02-25-2006, 04:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I'm assuming I would have to have a full tank of gas for the fuel additives. Which is better? I haven't used or really hear of SeaFoam. What is it?

Oh and after I do the flush, do I then change my oil then use the #packs of whatever?
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Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator

"Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006)

1995 RRC LWB

-LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
-RTE 2" Lift Springs
-Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises)
-KMC Front Diff Guard
-4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting
-Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone)
-2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights
-Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar
-Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel
-T-Case out of an 92' RRC
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Old 02-26-2006, 12:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RageRover
I'm assuming I would have to have a full tank of gas for the fuel additives. Which is better? I haven't used or really hear of SeaFoam. What is it?

Oh and after I do the flush, do I then change my oil then use the #packs of whatever?
SeaFoam is sold at Napa stores and other parts stores. SeaFoam is a really good ceaner that can be used in your
Yes you do it on a full tank of supreme, it works better if none over a period of time instead of over 5o miles and 4 or 5 gallons.
You do and engine oil flush, then do the additives and after a 1000 miles or so change the oil one more time.
Hope this helps, if you have any more question shout.
Mike
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Old 02-26-2006, 02:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Mike, what's this crank case flush you speak of? and how is it proporly done? if you could explain it a little bit or refer me to antoher thread, I would be most grateful.
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Old 02-26-2006, 03:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bene
Mike, what's this crank case flush you speak of? and how is it proporly done? if you could explain it a little bit or refer me to antoher thread, I would be most grateful.
You can go to ant auto parts shop and they will sell 2 or 3 different brands of engine flush. The whole idea is to poor in this quart of flush, let your engine idle for 10 or 15 minutes and then change your oil and filter. It will come out pretty dirty because it will start breaking down all the internal sludge and varnish. With an older engine, if it has never been done before, it would be good to do it again at 1000 to 1500 miles.
This is also a good thing to do before you remove the oil pan and if your oil pick up tube is starting to plug up it can increase your oil pressure.
By the way, some people also will use a couple quarts of ATF, because of its high detergant level.
I use an engine flush every 10,000 to 12,000 miles.
Hope this helps.
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Old 02-26-2006, 04:28 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Let me get this straight just to be sure:

I'm about to change my oil pretty soon here in a few weeks:

I add one quart of the engine flush, let it idle in the crankcase for 10-15 minutes.

With the addition of the new oil and filter, I add Sea Foam and after 1000 miles on the new oil and additive, drain and add new oil and filter.

Questions:

Can the Sea Foam be added to the oil and gas tank at the same time using two seperate bottles (pints)?

Can Sea Foam be added to the combustion chamber by using a vacuum line to suck the additive into the engine while its RPM's are at 2000-2500 RPM?

Also what do you or anyone else think of this additive of "Engine Restorer"? (this stuff, I added to my crankcase when I first changed the oil on my RRC, which claims to have CSR in the additive)

Lastly, using ATF? How does one use this to clean their engine, crankcase or combustion chamber?

Thanks for the input.
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Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator

"Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006)

1995 RRC LWB

-LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
-RTE 2" Lift Springs
-Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises)
-KMC Front Diff Guard
-4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting
-Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone)
-2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights
-Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar
-Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel
-T-Case out of an 92' RRC
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Old 02-26-2006, 04:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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thanks Mike, along with a couple of seafoam treatments, ill be doing that crank case flush on tueday, and fill it back up with a synthetic/dino oil blend, then going to full synthetic for the 1000-1500 mile treatment.

Rage, yes on the Seafoam questions. but i just pour it into the vacume line instead of it sucking it.

1 more thing, my local AutoZone recently started supplying SeaFoam.
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Old 02-26-2006, 04:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Sounds about right. I'll give all this a shot when I get the go-ahead with all my questions asked. No offense.
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Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator

"Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006)

1995 RRC LWB

-LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
-RTE 2" Lift Springs
-Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises)
-KMC Front Diff Guard
-4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting
-Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone)
-2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights
-Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar
-Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel
-T-Case out of an 92' RRC
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Old 02-26-2006, 04:53 PM   #14 (permalink)
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none taken. i wouldn't put my complete trust in me if i were you either.
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Owning a Land Rover is like dating a super model. Sure she has expenive tastes, complains a lot, and requires constant attention... but damn...

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Old 02-26-2006, 05:06 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Same here, sometimes I can't trust myself to make a sandwich.
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Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator

"Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006)

1995 RRC LWB

-LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains
-RTE 2" Lift Springs
-Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises)
-KMC Front Diff Guard
-4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting
-Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone)
-2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights
-Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar
-Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel
-T-Case out of an 92' RRC
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