Engine Cleaning for any vehicle...

[Disco Mike]

Originally Posted by RageRover

Let me get this straight just to be sure:

I'm about to change my oil pretty soon here in a few weeks:

I add one quart of the engine flush, let it idle in the crankcase for 10-15 minutes.

With the addition of the new oil and filter, I add Sea Foam and after 1000 miles on the new oil and additive, drain and add new oil and filter.

Questions:

Can the Sea Foam be added to the oil and gas tank at the same time using two seperate bottles (pints)?

Can Sea Foam be added to the combustion chamber by using a vacuum line to suck the additive into the engine while its RPM's are at 2000-2500 RPM?

Also what do you or anyone else think of this additive of "Engine Restorer"? (this stuff, I added to my crankcase when I first changed the oil on my RRC, which claims to have CSR in the additive)

Lastly, using ATF? How does one use this to clean their engine, crankcase or combustion chamber?

Thanks for the input.

To answer your question, yes you can run SeaFoam in the crank case and fuel tank at the same time and don't forget the third bottle for the induction system. Let the engine suck it in slowly over 2 or 3 minutes, then turn it right off to sit for 30 minutes before you go drive the shit out of it. Yes, use a vaccum line to suck the liquid from the can, regulate the flow by crimping the line with a pair of pliers.
I hear Engine Restore is a very good product to use although I have never used it.
You can use ATF in the crank case by draining off 2 or 3 qts. of old engine oil and adding ATF to replace it, then just let it idle for up to 1/2 hour.
Hope that helps.
Mike

[Geobloke]

Hell Rage this just sounds like a sure way to hydraulic your engine!!!

[Disco Mike]

Originally Posted by Bene

thanks Mike, along with a couple of seafoam treatments, ill be doing that crank case flush on tueday, and fill it back up with a synthetic/dino oil blend, then going to full synthetic for the 1000-1500 mile treatment.

Rage, yes on the Seafoam questions. but i just pour it into the vacume line instead of it sucking it.

1 more thing, my local AutoZone recently started supplying SeaFoam.

Bene, Save your money, use cheap oil on the first oil change and don't pour in the SeaFoam. It is supposed to be sucked in slowly and then turn off the engine for 1/2 hour to let it soak into the carbon, then go drive the hell out of it.
Mike

[p76rangie]

You have to be very careful adding aggressive detergints to the oil system. If it is dislodging the sludge in only 10 to 15 minutes, it is getting it off in a big way. You have to think then where this sludge is going once it is dislodged. It is going through your bearings, clogging lifters, etc etc. Nearly all modern oils have a safe detergent level in them. Just change your oil and filter more often and it will clean it up safely.

Ian

[RageRover]

Ahh, I'd hate to hydro lock my motor, but I will be careful.

Mike, just to clarify, I put one bottle of Sea Foam in the gas tank (full gas tank), one in the crankcase, and use one to have the engine suck it in through a vacuum line, right?

[RageRover]

Also, Ian, I will watch labels on bottle to see what's in the substance, plus I have heard that if one were to run these addtives, flushes through the crankcase, that the sludge and shit removed will make an oppotunity for new oil to find leaks, not that I have any visibly. Also I've heard that flushes contain kerosene that will eat away at the gaskets, making oil leakage a big issue. I don't know what the hell to believe, but I will just have to read labels and take one step at a time. I always want to reasearch first, that is why I am here to get other people's opinions.

So far I like what I hear!

[p76rangie]

I use a product called Redex to clean the internals of the combustion chambers, valves, etc. But based on the advice from my mechanic, who I very much trust, and who's comments made sense to me, I will never put through a cleaner through the oil system. What I have done is used more modern oils SL or SM that are higher in detergent and then change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. Of course it takes a lot longer, but it has the benefit of having newer oil in the motor at any time.

Ian

[Bene]

Originally Posted by p76rangie

You have to be very careful adding aggressive detergints to the oil system. If it is dislodging the sludge in only 10 to 15 minutes, it is getting it off in a big way. You have to think then where this sludge is going once it is dislodged. It is going through your bearings, clogging lifters, etc etc. Nearly all modern oils have a safe detergent level in them. Just change your oil and filter more often and it will clean it up safely.

Ian

thats why you do an oil change right after.

[p76rangie]

Kevin, Once it is the sump it has finished its travels and changing the oil will get rid of it. Yes you should change your oil quickly as it will most likely clog your oil filter. The issue is what damage this stuff does as it tries to work its way out of the motor in the first place, past the bearings. Will it make it past the bearing. Will it simply block up some oil outlets. You have an oil filter to take minute particals out of the oil so they don't damage the engine, then you want to pour a large amount of carbon and chemical sludge through the areas that you buy good oil filters to protect. It does not matter that it is only in there for 10 to 15 minutes. That is still a minimum of 15,000 revolutions of the motor. If there is enough gunk to fill the oil filter, the stuff will keep on circulating through your motor for that 15 minutes.

Ian

[Disco Mike]

Most of the engine flushes are engine friendly, Yes we should all be mindful and watch what we use in and on our engines, so read the labels. If you want to clean your engine use ATF, which is a very high detergent base oil that we all know won't hurt seals.
Nearly all the dealers now use some type of flush for both engines as well as trannys, coolant systems and power steering with great results. That is where I learned the benefit of doing this after nearly 20 years of writing service and management.
Good luck in what ever you decide to do.
Mike

[apbtpetey]

I know I am a little late in replying to this thread, but here is my experience with engine additives;

I have been using engine restore with every oil change for years now and never had a single problem. I also run seafoam ( using the 3 bottle method) through the engine 2 times a year (begining of spring and then in the fall), in addition I will use an engine oil flush made by gunk (you pour it in right before an oil change and run for 5 mins then change oil) I use the oil flush on every 2nd or 3rd oil change. NEVER ONCE have I had a problem with new oil leaks nor have I ever had any kind of damage done to any of my parts from using these products.

I just had to replace the head gaskets and I have to say that the internals of the engine were in great shape and had very very little sludge on them. I used these products on other cars and in fact when I had my old Lincoln the internals were cover with sludge so much so that I almost passed up buying it, but I had plans on ripping it apart anyway so I got it. I ran these treatments through like stated above for a year and when i went in to make my modifications to the engine it looked almost brand new in there from using these products and to top it off the car had 100,000 miles on it before it was in my hands. NEVER have I had new leaks show up from using these products.

If you take the time to read the labels and follow the directions then you should have no problems using them in your engine. I would also only use name brands that are proven such as seafoam and gunk. Just follow the directions on the labels and you'll be okay.

[RageRover]

Sounds good!! I agree with you on reading labels and such, to be sure you wouldn't dump anything flammable in your oil.

But before I do the oil change, I will do an engine flush, add new oil and filter, do the Sea Foam additives to the crankcase, gas tank (with full gas), and induction treatment. After 1000 miles or a so on the new oil with additives, I will do another oil change, add new oil, filter, and add Engine Restorer. She should run like a champ after all this is done.

One other thing (everyone's like, this guy won't shut up J/K) has anyone had the crazy idea of taking out each spark plug and douse the cylinder in carb cleaner to clean to pistons? I thought when I heard this from a friend, I thought sounds crazy. But I don't know what to think , but I do like the addtives, with Sea Foam and engine flush.

[apbtpetey]

never had tried pulling the plugs and doing the carb cleaner thing. I dont really see a need to that. Honestly when I looked around at my engine while doing the head gasket everything looked great and I have 129,000 miles give or take a few miles on the thing. It runs like new and I could drive it to Cali and back with out any fears (I am in NY).

Like I stated before just make sure you read and follow the directions on whatever you use. Now I am not swearing by these products either, just letting you know how I have made out using them.

When/If you do the seafoam treatment be prepared for a smoke show. The first time you do it you'll be surprised at the amount of smoke coming out your exhaust pipe. So make sure your in an open area.

[Funrover]

I have doen the seafoam in the Vacuum hose before....Rage I can send you a pic of where I did it on my RRC..... It helped me out, but there is going to be a lot of smoke after that 30 min period of letting it sit...... I run Lucas or BG in the cas tank and I have always used Mobil 1 synthetic oil..so I have yet to do the flush...My oil still comes out clean!!!! I do believe it all helps... I had a 79 chevy where I did the ATF trick....seemed to help a little, but I am not in a rush to recomend it!! Let me know if I can help more!

[Disco Mike]

Originally Posted by RageRover

Sounds good!! I agree with you on reading labels and such, to be sure you wouldn't dump anything flammable in your oil.

But before I do the oil change, I will do an engine flush, add new oil and filter, do the Sea Foam additives to the crankcase, gas tank (with full gas), and induction treatment. After 1000 miles or a so on the new oil with additives, I will do another oil change, add new oil, filter, and add Engine Restorer. She should run like a champ after all this is done.

One other thing (everyone's like, this guy won't shut up J/K) has anyone had the crazy idea of taking out each spark plug and douse the cylinder in carb cleaner to clean to pistons? I thought when I heard this from a friend, I thought sounds crazy. But I don't know what to think , but I do like the addtives, with Sea Foam and engine flush.

I would not suggest pulling the plugs and using carb cleaner, my concern is that you could clean the cylinder wall leaving them so dry you might do ring damage upon restarting.
Just a thought,
Mike