I just purchased a 2005 Range Rover HSE. I did a used car inspection at the local dealership and they found a few things wrong, however, instead of having them fix the items that needed fixing, I took it to my mechanic to fix instead.
Well one of the things that was wrong was oil leaking from the pan. When my mechanic took the pan off, he noticed that the person who had it before me hardly changed the oil!
So according to what I've read, the proper way to clean this engine is the way that my mechanic doing it...by removing the pan and manually cleaning it out and such, with degreaser and whatever else...and I also believe he's letting it sit for a couple days with some solvent in there? Not sure exactly what he was saying...
Now, the engine made no unusual noise (no knocking or anything else), doesn't run in any particular way that you would deem "different" than how its supposed to run...in other words, you wouldn't have been able to tell up front.
My question is this: Would I expect anything different now moving forward? Do I need to do anything special (i.e. multiple oil changes in a short period of time? etc)? Can I expect normal engine life from this thing?
If your truck was not serviced, I would suggest you do a complete service including all fluids and filters>
How many miles on it?
Might want to consider doing a complete engine flush to clean out the top end of the engine.
Go to a synthetic oil after flushing it out and do oil changes every 3 to 5000 miles.
__________________
Mike
Retired service manager, member of Solihull Society, SCLR, NCLR and the Santa Barbara 4Wheelers clubs.
99 D2, 3" lift, CDL with Detroit,T.T. lockers, 4:11's,H.D. axles, custom ft/rear bumpers with sliders, a 9500 HSI Warn winch and 5 HID's.
I'm not sure exactly what he's doing...just yet, however, if I do a complete Engine Flush, won't that run the risk of a large mass of sludge getting dislodged after the new synthetic oil has been refilled in there, and plugging up the pickup screen at the bottom of the oil pan?
My question was more geared towards what I should be expecting going forward...am I at risk now for anything "different", if the engine has not actually "shown" any ill effects of this so far?
What else besides coolant should be changed in your opinion? Would trans. fluid be a good idea? I've heard of many transmissions blowing up if the fluid hadn't been changed in like the first 50 or 60k miles...
If your engine was as dirty as you say, it needs to be flushed to prevent a lot of up coming wear because of low oil flow and pressure.
You might want to send me your tele number so I can walk you thru a slight variation of this list for probably needs to be done.
1 Oil filter, K&N 3001 or Mobil 1- 301
1 Factory air filter
6 Qts. of engine oil
2 feet of 3/16th vacuum tube
2 feet of 5/16th vacuum tube
12 Qts. of ATF
7 Qts. of 80/90W synthetic gear oil, 85W/140 for HD use
3 Pints of synthetic DOT 4 Brake fluid
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant, also called DexCool
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive
1 Bottle of Lucas Transmission additive
1 Can of Spray Carb. Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platinum Plus 4's
1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires
1 Serpentine belt
2 Bottles of SeaFoam gas additive
1 T/Stat
1 bottle of WaterWetter or Purple Ice
Hoses and belts, as necessary
60,000 Mile Service or Major Service for High Mileage Used Vehicle just purchased
Bleed the brakes
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive
Change the coolant and t/stat
Do an engine flush before changing the oil
Do an induction cleaning
Clean the throttle body
Add fuel additive to full gas tank
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change the t/case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.
Hopefully I didn't leave anything out.
__________________
Mike
Retired service manager, member of Solihull Society, SCLR, NCLR and the Santa Barbara 4Wheelers clubs.
99 D2, 3" lift, CDL with Detroit,T.T. lockers, 4:11's,H.D. axles, custom ft/rear bumpers with sliders, a 9500 HSI Warn winch and 5 HID's.
I'm not sure exactly what he's doing...just yet, however, if I do a complete Engine Flush, won't that run the risk of a large mass of sludge getting dislodged after the new synthetic oil has been refilled in there, and plugging up the pickup screen at the bottom of the oil pan?
My question was more geared towards what I should be expecting going forward...am I at risk now for anything "different", if the engine has not actually "shown" any ill effects of this so far?
What else besides coolant should be changed in your opinion? Would trans. fluid be a good idea? I've heard of many transmissions blowing up if the fluid hadn't been changed in like the first 50 or 60k miles...
Thanks!
You are right about the risk of dislodging the sludge. It will go through your bearings and other vital parts of your engine. So don't do it. Just change your oil say every 3,000 miles for a couple of times. Once the oil remains a bit cleaner you can start extending the oil changes out a bit.
Well at this point, they've already worked on it...they flushed it and with the oil pan off, cleaned it "as best as they could", according to them. hopefully this all works!
If your engine was as dirty as you say, it needs to be flushed to prevent a lot of up coming wear because of low oil flow and pressure.
You might want to send me your tele number so I can walk you thru a slight variation of this list for probably needs to be done.
1 Oil filter, K&N 3001 or Mobil 1- 301
1 Factory air filter
6 Qts. of engine oil
2 feet of 3/16th vacuum tube
2 feet of 5/16th vacuum tube
12 Qts. of ATF
7 Qts. of 80/90W synthetic gear oil, 85W/140 for HD use
3 Pints of synthetic DOT 4 Brake fluid
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant, also called DexCool
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive
1 Bottle of Lucas Transmission additive
1 Can of Spray Carb. Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platinum Plus 4's
1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires
1 Serpentine belt
2 Bottles of SeaFoam gas additive
1 T/Stat
1 bottle of WaterWetter or Purple Ice
Hoses and belts, as necessary
60,000 Mile Service or Major Service for High Mileage Used Vehicle just purchased
Bleed the brakes
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive
Change the coolant and t/stat
Do an engine flush before changing the oil
Do an induction cleaning
Clean the throttle body
Add fuel additive to full gas tank
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change the t/case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.
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Engine Sludge!!!
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