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Old 06-08-2009, 08:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Random Starts -> No Starts

After a number of hours searching the forums I decided there was nothing left to do other than post.

I am working with a friend of mine trying to figure out what is wrong with his Rover. he owns a 1990 Range Rover Classic with the 3.9L V8...

We have a plethora of odd things going on, but we seem to be doing nothing but making it worse as we fix things.

It started with Random starts in the morning. if the vehicle started once, he was good all day and had no worries. (This causes a bit of an inconvienence because we are both in the military and they don't like it when your late) So we did some basic troubleshooting, spark at coil, spark at plugs, fuel, filters, electrical, everything appeared to check out fine from the basics. We did some reading online and found some articles in regards to a Fire Trap, and the lines around it. So we replaced the vacuum lines and cleaned the fire trap, thinking this might be the fix, because we found that one of the hoses was broken and the others were VERY clogged. This is a problem we are only able to test once a day (First start then it's fine). Next afternoon, no start. cleaned the idle air bypass "thing"; we checked the spark plugs and those are well within tolerance in regards to gap and otherwise.

alrighty. now that we've done this work and we have been VERY careful not to disturb any other mechanical or electrical component, but alas, new issue. Now we're not getting spark to the plugs. we are ordering a new cap and rotor, but wondering if there is anything else we can look for in the distributor that might be the culprit. Read something online about an ign amp, I personally haven't poked my head into it and am far from a mechanic, but I have a general understanding of autos and engines and have worked on a number of them in the past. does this vehicle have points or a condenser or anything that needs to be gapped? could vacuum advance have anything to do with this? the vacuum hoses are all good and when the veh is running it runs flawlessly. I am posting this because we are stumped and throwing money at a problem sucks if we don't have the knowledge to point us in the right direction. I wouldn't mind replacing more items that are relativly inexpensive, but I'm trying to troubleshoot it down a little more than what I've got going for me.

He also replaced a coolant temp sensor, he read that those may cause an issue with too much fuel and flooding.

But all in all, at this point we have no spark at the plugs now. still have plenty of voltage at the coil. Thus engine doesn't start.

If anyone has a magic wand they could wave over their computer and just make the problems go away that'd be great. otherwise any suggestions on troubleshooting techniques or steps that we can do, or parts that anyone would recommend would be a great help.

Thank you,
Bradley
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Old 06-08-2009, 03:08 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The ignition amplifier is attached to the side of the dizzy (opposite of the vacuum advance)...its got a pair of wires coming out of it. I'd check and clean all the ignition wires...look for breaks, corrosion, etc. No power to the plugs, but power to the coil means it's the amplifier...pretty sure on that.

The ignition amplifier module gets overheated in its factory location and is often relocated to the fender by the coil. If yours hasn't been relocated, I'd seriously think about it. British Pacific has new modules for $50 or so...or you can convert it to use a GM HEI module, which is plentiful and cheap across the USA. Use these instructions as a base idea Solihull Society - Denver, Colorado » Blog Archive » Tech: Chevy Ignition Module Install...you don't have to destroy the factory module mount like they did however. Just make sure to use a large piece of aluminum as a heat sink...I didn't initially and had to redo mine. I picked up a 1/2" thick x 6" x 8" piece to mount it on. Check the motor pool for a piece of scrap...or if you're on an air base then check with the engine or airframe shops...they should have something. If you have questions...just ask.


BTW, where are you stationed?
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Well, we ordered a new cap and rotor yesterday, and going to pick it up today and put it on. while he's at the store he's going to order or pick up a new IAM (GM Mod) and maybe we'll get that installed. We're hoping that this works, but had the same suspicion after reading some other posts on the forums. Thank you for the link, that makes perfect sense.

We'll post more as soon as we get the results.

V/R
Bradley

We're stationed at Fort Stewart, GA (Army).
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:56 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Well, installed the new cap and rotor and the darn thing started right up, and runs smoother than it ever has. (I'm assuming due to the other cleaning things we did to it) however we did purchase the new IAM, and not planning on installing it right away, but going to keep it around in case it does fail. inevitably it appears from reading many posts that it is only a matter of time before this unit needs to be replaced.

Do you think that even though it is running fine, that possibly replacing that IAM module it would run better? what would be some tell tale signs that it may possibly be going out, but has not yet completely thrown in the towel?

Thank you in advance for you help,
~Bradley
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Old 06-09-2009, 08:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Signs of a failing IAM would be the engine crapping out after a drive of 20-30 minutes (or more) and the being able to restart after 45-60 minutes after the IAM cooled off. If it does this with frequency then it's going quickly...time to change it. I'd still relocate the original one at the minimum...it will buy you time, and make the swap to the GM module that much easier on the side of the road.

Ahh...Georgia...good times! You know that Charlie Daniels song..."The Devil Went Down to Georgia"...well he friggin set up shop at Ft. Benning!
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Old 01-24-2010, 11:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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how did everything turn out??
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