Replaced plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, have spark, but no fire.
So, I have been driving my 1995 RRC around just fine. Everything worked as it should. To get ready for a road trip I decided to give it an oil change, replaced the spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and now the Fuel Relays under the dash. Ran fine tuesday, end of day after all this work, won't start. Again, everything worked before the work done to it. It definitely needed the work done. I only replaced the relays after it didn't start to begin with.
So, checked to make sure I had spark, good on all 8 cylinders. Quadruple checked the firing order from the manual. But still no fire. The inertia switch seems to be ok, its a little springy up and down but I think it was like that before. So, checked fuel, I sprayed some starter fluid into the head up against the flaps. No fire. I know I have spark but even with direct fuel, no fire. I am completely stumped. Any help?
Did you use a factory rotor and cap, they sometimes act up with after market rotors? You may have damaged the distributor when removing the old rotor, if you pull too hard damage may occur. How about your coil, is it still original, may want to upgrade to a hotter set up.
__________________
Mike
Retired service manager, member of Solihull Society, SCLR, NCLR and the Santa Barbara 4Wheelers clubs.
99 D2, 3" lift, CDL with Detroit,T.T. lockers, 4:11's,H.D. axles, custom ft/rear bumpers with sliders, a 9500 HSI Warn winch and 5 HID's.
Location: Bloomfield, CT If I died today, I lived there all my life.
Posts: 2,701
Gallery:
0
You may have the wires in the right order, but check to see that you're not one post off. Put your engine on TDC of the compression stroke and check that rotor is pointing at the post you have the number one wire in. As Disco Mike says, aftermarket rotors are a no-no, because most don't handle the intensity of the stock coil and ground internally to the distributor shaft. I wouldn't upgrade to a hotter coil because a. You're already getting spark, an b. the ignition components won't handle a hotter spark. Why did you change the relays? Did you use the correct ones, you can't interchange 5 pin for 4 pin, even though they will plug into the same sockets. Don't use starting ether, thats an excellent way to bend a con rod.
Do you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail?
Yes, I have replaced with factory rotor and cap. I also have the wires in the right order and spots as well. I have checked multiple times with the number one plug to the right of the little notch. I changed the relays or because I read that can be the issue sometimes. I used the same Bosch fuel relays that used as stock. I am not sure that I have fuel pressure. I'm not sure how to check that. Again, I just know that it worked a few days ago just fine and just had a big check up. I am also wondering if I could have possibly tripped something or blew a fuse or ??? If I can't get it working in the next day or two I'll have to tow it in. Not excited about that but kinda need it.
__________________
1995 RRC
The adventure is just beginning.
So, got it fixed. It was the wires in the wrong order on the distributor. But, before you boo on me, I got the order from my Range Rover shop manual. It was all rotated one slot counter clock-wise. Lame. Do you think the manual people with refund me the $100 to tell me that?
__________________
1995 RRC
The adventure is just beginning.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.