I'm posting a few photos of my 1971 IIA 84 inch 3.9 Hybrid with tilt front end. It is built on a Range Rover cut to an 84 inch wb. Why 84 inch? I wanted it to have a tight turning radius off road. It has an Extreme Flow air compressor and tank to run air tool, air horns, and the two ARB Lockers I am now installing. New EBC brakes. No computer controls, with a Holly carb.
This project took me almost a year and a half in my driveway, with having a hip replaced ten months into it. I have been driving it daily for over a year but it will never be finished. I'm always working to improve and refine the performance and looks.
I posted some of these on another forum so if this is a repeat for you, I'm sorry! I have more than a hundred photos of the build and love to share.
I'm in Methuen, MA. It's just before Salem, NH between 93 and 495.
Thanks for your comment.
Paul
Hi Life's Lemon,
I have almost a hundred photos of this build and I have done a lengthy story on it a while ago. I need to write it again though. I try not to make people I meet crazy when they ask questions, I could go on and on! Most non Rover people don't understand why!
It's a driveway project I'm not sure I would want to do in New England again without a very large garage. It's the most satisfying anything I have ever built.
Paul looking good over there. I think 1.5 yrs is good! Im just diving into my own hybrid project right now. Ive been working on it about one month now. Ive sourced most of the pieces I need and have torn apart the series and started working on the bulkhead. Once I get that done, strip the RRC and start the framework. Nothing fancy over here either, just a new trail toy but your work is inspirational. No pictures worth sharing yet. It would be great to see some more photos. Can you email any or burn some to a disc? Gordo
I'm an old fart (56) and retired so although I built it in my driveway in the heat and cold I had lots of time to work.
I'd like to see your progress as soon as you are willing to share a few photos.
I'm posting two more below.
Paul
This is one of the bulkhead outriggers welded on with the plate on the back side because it had to be higher than the frame. It was during the bulkhead rebuild but before the center portion was cut many times for the engine, before painting. It also shows the heater before it was shortened.
This one shows the center floor area with the brake valve, shifter, hi/low shifter, center dif lock shifter, e-brake that needs work to be pretty, the RR gas pedal, and the shortened heater box.
Hey Paul, go to the floridalandroverclub website (link below) and look in the photo album. Ive been posting some photos over there. From the looks of your work, Im probably going to have to do some trimming yet on the bulkhead I just completed! Oh well, Im sure with a hybrid, you take two steps forward, scratch your head and start over again. part of building your own rig I guess. Gordo
I took a look at your project, looks like you are doing great, not to mention you have some good help.
A friend of mine stripped down most of my IIA in one afternoon while I worked on the RR. He also loaned me an old bulkhead for fitting and figuring out where everything had to go. I placed the bulkhead on the outriggers to mark for engine clearance a few times before it was finished. One thing that helped with the floors was I drilled holes in the bulkhead where the floor bolts belong and put galvanized bolts up from the bottom and tack welded the heads from below, then when I put in the floor and center floor I just put nuts and lock washers on the top side.
I couldn't get either radiator to fit my project so I ordered one from Summit Racing. I also ordered the electric fan set-up with shroud form Summit and had it when I removed the engine fan. As you can see I put the air conditioner fans on the outside as pushers. The puller fans have an adjustable thermostat with an over ride switch in the cab so it can be shut off so it won't pull water on the engine. The pushers have just an on off switch but I have not needed them at all. The cooling is great with these fans.
I think the bulkhead outriggers are available from a few suppliers, I think the pair cost me about $75.
If you are using the RR transmission you will need to move the controls forward. The shift is easy but you will need to give thought to the Hi-low/Dif lock, unless you don't mind it being where the middle seat is.
Are you planing on using the EFI, or will you be going with a carb? I got rid of all electronics so I dumped all wiring and started over. I had a supply of stainless wire used on emergency vehicles lighting systems, so most, but not all is stainless.
I'll check your site every now and then to check on your progress! I will enjoy watching and you might come up with some better ideas I could borrow!
Hey Paul, Im lucky to have a friend who restores Series rovers. He has an excellent contact overseas so I have already ordered most of the pieces I need, outriggers, door tops, D90 hood, flares, etc. He also has tons of extra parts so Ive been pack ratting up on parts. Im sure I will be picking your brain on matters as time goes on. As far as the EFI goes, Im with you. While it is a great EFI system I just dont want to figure out how to wire it all in. I saved the wiring out of the series 3 which was in good shape and plan on using it if possible. If not I will probably buy a painless kit but I dont see why the series wiring wouldnt work with a carb set up. I didnt even have to disconnect the wiring at the switches, I just pulled the connections apart, marked them, and pulled everything out in one clump. As far as the radiator, I will either have my RRC cut down to fit or use a D90 one. I like the summit racing idea though, never thought about that. Gordo
You are lucky to have someone to help you, of course you have the little one for company, that helps a lot.
I take it the D90 hood is longer than the SIII? If it is that should help with room. Are you going to an 88 inch wb?
I changed the wiring because so much of it was cracked and years ago I had a small fire at the rear in the harness to the passenger side lights. I was up in CA and did a repair by flashlight and never made it right. As you know without the EFI or any computer controls or sensors the wiring is easy, only lights, ignition, and charging. If your SIII wires are good, all the better!
I think the aluminum radiator cost me about $240. If you can fit a D90 radiator that could be easier also. I don't know how it compares in size.
You are lucky to have someone to help you, of course you have the little one for company, that helps a lot.
I take it the D90 hood is longer than the SIII? If it is that should help with room. Are you going to an 88 inch wb?
I changed the wiring because so much of it was cracked and years ago I had a small fire at the rear in the harness to the passenger side lights. I was up in CA and did a repair by flashlight and never made it right. As you know without the EFI or any computer controls or sensors the wiring is easy, only lights, ignition, and charging. If your SIII wires are good, all the better!
I think the aluminum radiator cost me about $240. If you can fit a D90 radiator that could be easier also. I don't know how it compares in size.
Paul
Thanks Paul, yeah the little one loves to help. I know he will look back someday and love those photos.. Yeah plan on going with 88-90 inch wheelbase depending on what looks right with the lifted Coiler chassis. The D90 hood should help with the V8 engine. I really wanted to keep the series front and keep it recessed but it causes other problems so I figured KISS (keep it simple stupid!). I was wondering how you mounted the rear crossmember. I see some creativity there and Im still a bit stumped on how it is going to fit. The one on my series frame is decent so I want to reuse it. Looks like a 90 crossmember would be easier since it is raised up in the rear already, but they are around 400 bucks from RN and Im a cheap joker! Post some more photos on that if you have any. I got a lot of respect for anyone that built there own hybrid. It is a lot of work, but I find it very enjoyable and Im sure it will be lots of fun when it is done. Gordo
The front of the RR frame is the same width as the Series but the rear is not. I kind of cheated a little mounting the rear crossmember. I cut the boxes that mounted to the Series off flush with the crossmember. In one of the first photos of the rear you can see the battery box/rear shield. If you look closely you can see the stainless steel through the PTO hole. I built the battery box to fit between the frame with the rear wide enough to reach the outside of both sides. The box is welded to the frame and the box is welded to the rear crossmember making the unit strong.
I cut 16" out of the center of the frame and a good section off the rear of the RR frame. I'm not sure how much but I guess if I knew how long a RR frame is I could figure it out. There isn't much overhang in the rear, and five or six inches less than the Series
$400 is a big chunk towards new brakes or a locker! You can make the one you have work. It could be mounted with angle iron or bent sheet steel for brackets.
I'm posting a few more of the rear but I'll see if I can get a few of the under side of the rear in the next few days.
Paul
The wheel wells have been trimmed since this photo but need more trimming.
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Hybrid, 84 inch IIA
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