I've been collecting parts for a hybrid build for a while. The body: the truck I've always wanted, a 1969 Series IIa 109 12 Passenger Safari. Original 12 passenger truck, with some cool paperwork listing all the factory options (locking gas cap, etc). I bought this truck with no engine, however the engine back driveline is complete, including a Ford engine adapter on the bellhousing.
I've got many years of Brit/Rover parts and wrenching experience, from the MGB that was my first car to my wife's cars (a TR8 and a Discovery). The parts collection includes many Rover engines, a '90 Rangie and a '95 Disco for parts, an LT-77, a few "extra" LT-230s, on and on. I've got a small "Smithy" machine shop, MIG welder, hydraulic press -- the typical small home shop environment. I'm comfortable with sheet metal fab, welding, "heavy" projects like engine swaps.
What I really want is out of the question right now. I'd eventually like to have Diesel powered Rovers, for three reasons: 1) simplicity, 2) torque! and 3) it seems to be a long term solution....but since I've got a few running 3.9s around, and after the new house and new baby cash is tight, so diesel power goes in to the "long term" plan pile.
What I want now: the 109 body with fuel injection, power steering, air conditioning, coil suspension. I'm open to options. The one thing I really want to avoid, but I don't know how possible it is, is going to a Defender type nose. I really love the set-back look of the breakfast on the truck.
The big issue I have no understanding of is the chassis. I know plenty of hybrids have been built, but what are my options with what I've got (109 chassis, Disco chassis, Rangie chassis) without having to get crazy cutting up the 109 body?
Thanks so much, I've been looking for a forum like this for a while.
Hello, the best way to do it is to use a 110 chassis but man they are not cheap and not many around used. If your 109 frame is solid then you could graft the perches, suspension mounts over fairly easily. A LWB RRC classic wheelbase is also around 107 or so that might be worth considering. You could also strech a RRC or D1 frame to work. Anything is doable but the 110 chassis is probably the easiest. Shortening the tub and making a 100 inch is an option too. Truck cabs are the easiet for this.
As far as keeping the breakfast. It can be done. If you run the series trans and V8 adapter ring it will fit, but not a great option. Otherwise, plan on moving the motor mounts back 6 inches. Either way you will likely run into two problems, im sure there are others though. 1 the radiator has to be made to fit around the power steering box on a RRC/D1 frame and 2 the oil filter will need to be relocated due to the diff being to close to it. A third option is running a FC101 trans as the bellhousing is shorter. Let me know if you find one!
In my opinion, the easiest way to do this is to leave the motor/trans in place. I didnt take anything apart on my drivetrain except the tbox. My hybrid is an 88 so I took 10 inches out and then stuck it back together. I also wanted to have the breakfast in place but it was just so much easier to pop a 90 front end on it. Still gonna be pretty tight but I would just keep it as simple as possible as it takes so much time to do a hybrid.
Heres a recent photo of mine. HOURS and HOURS into it over the last 8 months and its still in the mock phase. Then I plan on taking it apart, welding/plating everything up before paint and reassembly.
PS: forget the EFI and get a Holley 470 truck avenger or a Edelbrock 500. Much easier to wire! Im using the original series harness!
Heres a link to a 109 hybrid my buddy in Fl built for a customer. Top notch an lots of photos. Gallery :: Land Rover
If the 109 frame is good keep it, it will same you a lot of time. If not stretch a rangie chassis and make mounts to fit the 109 tub. this is not terribly difficult, but it needs to be done right. then to fit the motor under the hood, you will need to move the radiator back and switch to an electric fan setup. I thought about this with my hybrid, but decided to get a defender front end, because the mechanical fan is more reliable. with the other front end, you don't need to move the motor and trans back and change drive shafts.
I would go with a LWB RRC chassis, get the RTE rear arms for the extra 1 inch, and then drop in a 2.5 TD engine with the LT77. Keep your wheelbase correct, have coiler, and the breakfast fits along with plenty of space for the radiator.
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"In certain places, at certain hours, gazing at the sea is dangerous. It is what looking at a woman sometimes is." - Victor Hugo
Originally Posted by Elemental
Some guys play hard to get, I play hard to want.
I have a '93 RRC LWB I'm planning on putting a 109 body on. Looking for sources of a good tub. I've found rigs with a good body but the drivetrain was too nice to toss out too. Just seemed like heresy to me.
Can I just buy the firewall, body panels and glass somewhere? I know that East Coast Rovers and Rovers North have some parts but what are some other suggestions.
I've got a complete 1981 SIII 109" 3 door utility body truck sitting in my driveway. The body, interior, glass, is all complete. Salisbury rear axle, engine in the bed, trans and t-case mounted. RHD bulkhead ( but that's easy to change with a LHD floor pedal box and using the dash, steering column off your RRC.
It was going to go North for another member to put on his RRC, but wasn't able to do in timeframe needed. If you're thinking about a 109" bodied RRC drivetrain and frame, PM me on details of truck.
BTW, the frame is rotted out horribly from the middle back, and the removed motor needs a rebuild, so it's the perfect (non-heresy) swap candidate.
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"In certain places, at certain hours, gazing at the sea is dangerous. It is what looking at a woman sometimes is." - Victor Hugo
Originally Posted by Elemental
Some guys play hard to get, I play hard to want.
Buy the biggest hunk of junk 109 you can find and use the body. I agree dont tear up a one worth restoring. I built my 89 inch hybrid from a 550 dollar hunk of junk series three. I would recommend trying to get a series three though so you have the lights on the outside of the breakfast. just makes it easier to run the Defender hood/grill. Its going to be VERY EXPENSIVE even if you can weld/fab yourself. Mine was around 7-8 grand but it could be done for less, but there are a LOT of hidden costs. If you cant weld/fab then you might want to rethink your plans or get a welder and teach yourself like I did. Gordo
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