Big Blues?:boobies:

[01001010]

Dude, calm down (I say that only because it seems like you're pouncing at me with these replies)...im 20..I AM a young owner. Just offering some advice! Yes, cars, boats, airplanes, copy machines...ANYTHING with inner workings made by man "WILL GO WRONG" eventually. 12+ year old Rovers just so happen to be more susceptible to having things go wrong with them because of their previous lives with previous owners...some were owned by people who understood the value of owning a fully functioning vehicle and kept up with maintenance...while others completely ignored maintenance (and again, this applies to all cars)

[Buddy Lee]

GDE Just relax and stop taking offense so easy especially from JC. There are lot's of people on these rover boards that will bite your head of for looking at the wrong parts. Or bitch at you for asking stupid questions. He's just trying to be helpful and share some of his experiences.

Relax and keep your temper in check and you'll be fine on these boards start running off at the mouth at people and you'll soon find that fund of helpful information dry.

Now if you want to bitch at me for trying to give you some helpful advice and tell me to mind my own business have at it.

But to answer your question about shocks. Obviously good shocks are good shocks and cheap shocks are well just that cheap. I eventually want to get blingstiens but right now I have other things I need to spend money on. I've been running Pro-Comps for about 10 months now and although I did break one. They have been an OK shock to use. They are a bit soft and the truck tends to be a bit bouncy but nothing you can't deal with until you have the $ to do it right. The biggest problem and complaint about the PC shocks is that the bottom stud would break off under certain conditions this is what happened to me. I think the main cause for this is that the studs where only tacked on at two spots. They solved this weakness by welding the entire stud for the HD model. Also if you install them with the washer bevel facing in it will put less stress on the stud. DAP replaced my rear shocks for free with the HD ones when they broke so I'm satisfied with them for now and I've not had one break again since then.

With a 3" lift I would definitely go with longer shocks and not stock length. Some people are happy with the OME length at 1" over stock. I'm content with the +2" PC shock length for now but might want a little more movement in the future.

[-MOSES-]

Damn JC your such an ass.....

[apbtpetey]

Originally Posted by Roverhound

I think my main issue is somebody looking at the cheapest springs out there and calling them pricey. That's pretty funny

I agree with that statement

Now GDE I have to say you have some set of balls to talk to long time members of this site like that. I would agree 100% in what JC is saying about taking care to important stuff first before getting into things like lifts. We don't know the condition of your rover, but many of us know the issues that come with rovers and by saying things like what JC said to you will only help you out in the long run.

[apbtpetey]

Another thing to consider is what other things you'll need to go along with the lift. I am not real familiar with Rangies, but I know when you go to a 3" lift on a Disco you have to look into things such as extended brake lines, upgrading the rear driveshaft, along with some various other stuff. Point being there are other costs to involved with lifting your rover.

[Capt. Ron]

Well...I have HD OME, shocks and springs. It's a rough ride, even with all season tires. I feel every bump. But I'm not complaining, they came with the truck. If I had to do it, I'd buy OME again but go medium, or mix it up a bit.

GDE, buy what you think will work for you. Ride on it for a few months. If you think you wanna change something, try another setup. Sell your used stuff, get some money back. Repeat until you find what you like. Good luck.

my .02

[GDEclassic]

He apologized and i told him that was appreciated. I got infuriated when it seemed he thought he had the right to tell me i shouldnt own a rover. I LOVE my rover and ALL rovers that is why we are all here right? I think any of you would have got offended if this was said to you. Just because I am asking questions, does not mean i have to be talked down to and treated like a idiot. Obviously if my brakes didnt work or something i would take care of that before suspension. Im done "pouncing on you" and im sorry. I do appreciate your input. But im not asking you what i should take care of BEFORE my suspension. Im asking about SUSPENSION.
Yes petey i have balls. Thank you for your input as well. ANd is this true for RRC's? Extend brake lines w/3 in lift? Drive shaft? Anyone know?

Buddy i have no reason to bitch at you. You offer helpful advice and answer questions w/out being degrading. ANd that is what i need. You ordered your procomps from DAP? Has anyone tried 4wheel parts? They have a deal to buy 4 shocks and get a free stabilizer. Do i need the part number to make sure i get the right stuff from them? They dont know much of anything about rovers it seems. just heeps...i mean jeeps.

[Buddy Lee]

Originally Posted by GDEclassic

You ordered your procomps from DAP?

Yes they used to be $149 for a set of 4 not sure what they are now. I'm not sure if the HD version with the fully welded stud is a DAP only deal they made with PC or if that is what you get from all the vendors now. I would definitely make sure you get that version of the shock before buying from another vendor unless you want something like this to happen to yours.

As a side note DAP did make it on my vendor of last choice do to customer service issues so I'm not trying to promote them I personally will most likely never buy anything from them again. But if they are the only ones who have the fully welded one then it might be your only option but I would shop around and call a few places and see first.

Cheers

[Roverhound]

Originally Posted by GDEclassic

He apologized and i told him that was appreciated. I got infuriated when it seemed he thought he had the right to tell me i shouldnt own a rover.

You were infuriated over what someone on the internet said to you?
How's this. Go suck a big bag of dicks. How does that make you feel peewee?

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by Buddy Lee

Yes they used to be $149 for a set of 4 not sure what they are now. I'm not sure if the HD version with the fully welded stud is a DAP only deal they made with PC or if that is what you get from all the vendors now. I would definitely make sure you get that version of the shock before buying from another vendor unless you want something like this to happen to yours.

As a side note DAP did make it on my vendor of last choice do to customer service issues so I'm not trying to promote them I personally will most likely never buy anything from them again. But if they are the only ones who have the fully welded one then it might be your only option but I would shop around and call a few places and see first.

Cheers

What bushes were you running when they broke? Where they poly or OEM?
I have broken Konis like that from having incorrect bushes and they are not a cheap shock.

[Buddy Lee]

Originally Posted by p76rangie

What bushes were you running when they broke? Where they poly or OEM?
I have broken Konis like that from having incorrect bushes and they are not a cheap shock.

I was running the rubber ones that came with the shocks you can see them in the picture. I think part of the problem was that the rear bottom shock mounts have those metal cups for the bushings. Well the convex washers that come with the shocks will hit them if you have the bubble end facing out. This is why I also turned them around with the convex part facing into the bushing to allow for more flex before they hit those metal cups.

[Roverhound]

Buddy, this is a common problem with the Pro Comps, I don't think how you ran the bushings made a difference. I know of 2 people who broke them on the street and not wheeling.
The rubber bushings hat came with mine disintergrated within 3 months of having them. DAP eventually replaced them after I gave up hope of them doing so. One day out of the blue they were on my stoop.
The D2 runs loop to loop and I haven't heard of these breaking yet, they just can't handle the weight of the truck.
I'm stoked though, I'll be putting in my front Bilsteins today.

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by Buddy Lee

I was running the rubber ones that came with the shocks you can see them in the picture. I think part of the problem was that the rear bottom shock mounts have those metal cups for the bushings. Well the convex washers that come with the shocks will hit them if you have the bubble end facing out. This is why I also turned them around with the convex part facing into the bushing to allow for more flex before they hit those metal cups.

It is the top rubbers that cause them to break. Too small a bush (even rubber ones) and they can't move enough at the top and they break off the bottom pin. There has to be a decent clearance between the upper shock eye and the large washer that holds them in place.

You can weld them back on. You just have to do little welds at a time and try and keep the main part of the shock cool.

[Buddy Lee]

Originally Posted by p76rangie

It is the top rubbers that cause them to break. Too small a bush (even rubber ones) and they can't move enough at the top and they break off the bottom pin. There has to be a decent clearance between the upper shock eye and the large washer that holds them in place.

You can weld them back on. You just have to do little welds at a time and try and keep the main part of the shock cool.

That might be the problem with your but not with mine I have plenty of flex at the top I checked that out.

As for welding them what good is that when all the gas and oil has already drained out the bottom?

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by Buddy Lee

As for welding them what good is that when all the gas and oil has already drained out the bottom?

I didn't realise that yours had broken through into the inner storages. On other brands the pins are just welded to the outside andif they break off there is no issues with anything leaking.