Front recovery points... - Land Rovers Only

roverX · 02-02-2006, 07:52 PM

Running a stock bumper...er...no bumper...cut to hell bumper...

what do you guys think would be the best thing to do for front recovery points?

i don't particularly care for jate rings and have heard of them snapping during snatch movements (pun intended Griff).

what about recovery hooks bolted to the frame where the bumper gets bolted to the frame?

any other ideas?

keptin · 02-02-2006, 08:11 PM

This seems to be what you are talking about...they bolt to where the bumper would bolt up to......they are pictured on a TJM winch tray but you could connect to the frame.

https://www.expeditionexchange.com/curt/

$15/each

roverX · 02-02-2006, 08:25 PM

Yup, them are it.

GriffSC · 02-02-2006, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roverX

i don't particularly care for jate rings and have heard of them snapping during snatch movements (pun intended Griff).

hey, better than snapping during a clean and jerk... or is it jerk and clean?

roverX · 02-02-2006, 09:56 PM

Seeing that you are still an "amateur antagonist".... I took the money and went pro....

Monty · 02-04-2006, 02:09 PM

X, are you mounting your hooks at an angle like the ones in the pic? It seems that with hard pulls, there would be a lot of side load stress along the bolts. Kinda like forcing pressure on the bottom bolt upward and the upper bolt downward. I hope I explained that right.

Also, from what I understand, the grade 8 bolts aren't as strong side loaded like that compared to a grade 5. I could be wrong on that so, someone in the know, chime in.

roverX · 02-04-2006, 02:44 PM

Correct about the bolts...if I did those types of hooks, I would also upgrade the bolts.

Disco Mike · 02-04-2006, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roverX

Yup, them are it.

RoverX,
I want to call you, when is the best time to reach you on the cell # you sent me?
Mike J.

pickuprover · 02-04-2006, 03:40 PM

Get the strongest bolts that you can find... Have seen those things snapped off because of bolt failure, not fun. Even better in my opion is to have a certified welder put them on. That way you know that they are not going to come off without taking a large peice of the frame with it. Just my personal opion.

John C · 02-04-2006, 04:46 PM

A few years ago I saw one of those hooks break off a 'burban. The guy had bolted it and welded it. What happended is when the weld gave way it also snapped the bolts. I would use just the bolts (upgraded ones) or just a good weld but never both.... you would think welded and bolted is better but it doesn't seem to be (in some cases).

roverX · 02-04-2006, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Disco Mike

RoverX,
I want to call you, when is the best time to reach you on the cell # you sent me?
Mike J.

You got PM Mike! I'm at home all weekend sick.

pickuprover · 02-04-2006, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John C

A few years ago I saw one of those hooks break off a 'burban. The guy had bolted it and welded it. What happended is when the weld gave way it also snapped the bolts. I would use just the bolts (upgraded ones) or just a good weld but never both.... you would think welded and bolted is better but it doesn't seem to be (in some cases).

Chances are he welded them in place with the bolts in. (Would question is welding ability if the weld gave way.) The heat from the welder tempered the bolts and made them brittle, so that when the weld gave way the sudden pressure on the bolts snapped them as they were already weakened. Welded properly (with the right stick and temperature) the frame would have ripped around the welds before the welds gave. Never weld near bolts as that will weaken the bolts. If you use the bolts to hold it in place when you are welding, replace the bolts....

John C · 02-04-2006, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pickuprover

Chances are he welded them in place with the bolts in. (Would question is welding ability if the weld gave way.) The heat from the welder tempered the bolts and made them brittle, so that when the weld gave way the sudden pressure on the bolts snapped them as they were already weakened. Welded properly (with the right stick and temperature) the frame would have ripped around the welds before the welds gave. Never weld near bolts as that will weaken the bolts. If you use the bolts to hold it in place when you are welding, replace the bolts....

Good point, you're probably right....

texasrover · 02-04-2006, 09:00 PM

Oh certainly... that weld should not have given way like that. Bolts... hmmm why bother bolting and welding unless the weld was simple and not really structural... I have seen people spot weld some things in place for temp fixture but sound to me the penetration on that weld was bad. As for tempering that bolt... yep, sounds like that is exactly what happened.

rmuller · 02-04-2006, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keptin

This seems to be what you are talking about...they bolt to where the bumper would bolt up to......they are pictured on a TJM winch tray but you could connect to the frame.

https://www.expeditionexchange.com/curt/

$15/each

Actually, those are not mounted where the bumper would bolt up to.. you have to drill into the side of the winch tray to mount them.

02-02-2006, 07:52 PM	#1 (permalink)
roverX Elephantitis penisitis Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 5,439 Gallery: 0	Front recovery points... Running a stock bumper...er...no bumper...cut to hell bumper... what do you guys think would be the best thing to do for front recovery points? i don't particularly care for jate rings and have heard of them snapping during snatch movements (pun intended Griff). what about recovery hooks bolted to the frame where the bumper gets bolted to the frame? any other ideas? __________________ What? Is this where I'm supposed to write some profound statement that boggles the intellect of the genius that you think you are? Why would I waste my time with that when I can be getting free lap dances from your sister AND your girlfriend at the same time?

02-02-2006, 08:11 PM	#2 (permalink)
keptin Roads?...Where we're going, we don't need roads... Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Reno, NV Posts: 2,365 Gallery: 0	This seems to be what you are talking about...they bolt to where the bumper would bolt up to......they are pictured on a TJM winch tray but you could connect to the frame. https://www.expeditionexchange.com/curt/ $15/each __________________ Josh Shapiro DII Photos at www.kep1.com

02-02-2006, 08:25 PM	#3 (permalink)
roverX Elephantitis penisitis Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 5,439 Gallery: 0	Yup, them are it. __________________ What? Is this where I'm supposed to write some profound statement that boggles the intellect of the genius that you think you are? Why would I waste my time with that when I can be getting free lap dances from your sister AND your girlfriend at the same time?

02-02-2006, 09:56 PM	#5 (permalink)
roverX Elephantitis penisitis Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 5,439 Gallery: 0	Seeing that you are still an "amateur antagonist".... I took the money and went pro.... __________________ What? Is this where I'm supposed to write some profound statement that boggles the intellect of the genius that you think you are? Why would I waste my time with that when I can be getting free lap dances from your sister AND your girlfriend at the same time?

02-04-2006, 02:44 PM	#7 (permalink)
roverX Elephantitis penisitis Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 5,439 Gallery: 0	Correct about the bolts...if I did those types of hooks, I would also upgrade the bolts. __________________ What? Is this where I'm supposed to write some profound statement that boggles the intellect of the genius that you think you are? Why would I waste my time with that when I can be getting free lap dances from your sister AND your girlfriend at the same time?

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02-04-2006, 03:40 PM	#9 (permalink)
pickuprover Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,351 Gallery: 0	Get the strongest bolts that you can find... Have seen those things snapped off because of bolt failure, not fun. Even better in my opion is to have a certified welder put them on. That way you know that they are not going to come off without taking a large peice of the frame with it. Just my personal opion. __________________ Andrew Barr. 1972 Series III 109. "the Tin Turtle" "However, that was his ploy and I caved....totally caved... LOL!" Jellijo

02-04-2006, 04:46 PM	#10 (permalink)
John C 4x4 Adventure Gear Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Tappan, NY Posts: 1,175 Gallery: 0	A few years ago I saw one of those hooks break off a 'burban. The guy had bolted it and welded it. What happended is when the weld gave way it also snapped the bolts. I would use just the bolts (upgraded ones) or just a good weld but never both.... you would think welded and bolted is better but it doesn't seem to be (in some cases). __________________ John C 1996 DI - 3" AG lift 1995 DI - Scorpion Racing Extreme Kit 1991 RR - parting out (few parts left) 1990 Kawasaki KL650B Tengai 1989 Kawasaki KLR650

02-04-2006, 09:00 PM	#14 (permalink)
texasrover Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Ft. Worth, Texas Posts: 490 Gallery: 0	Oh certainly... that weld should not have given way like that. Bolts... hmmm why bother bolting and welding unless the weld was simple and not really structural... I have seen people spot weld some things in place for temp fixture but sound to me the penetration on that weld was bad. As for tempering that bolt... yep, sounds like that is exactly what happened. __________________ That is not a leak! That is undercarriage rust inhibitor. 98 Discovery

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