This Locker or that Locker

[1hank1]

Oh man, good stuff! Running 35's

[jimfoo]

Originally Posted by 1hank1

I know full well that HD axles can break. But I still think Jim is leaving some parts of the story out.

What part do you think I am leaving out? Bill knew I broke lots of axles as I wheel hard for having a Series. Having low power, sometimes you need more momentum to make steep hills or rock sections. If there are bumps, you may loose traction, so the axles will get shock loaded. As you know, that's what breaks them. I'm not positive, but I think it broke going up the right side of Wipeout Hill in Moab, if you know that trail. I didn't quite make the top and it started hopping when I tried to start up from where I stopped on the hill.

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by 1hank1

So, if both wheels get traction:

Lets say you have a stock diff. Let's say again that both rear wheel are getting good traction. If you do not have a locker, does that mean that both wheels are going to get power? Or, does that mean that only one wheel will get power? Is only one wheel going to be enough to pull you out of this spot?

One of four things will happen:
1) You break a axle
2) You spin
3) You bust a U-joint
or
4) You bust a diff.

Do you even know how a diff works?
To answer your question, both wheels will get power under the circumstances described.

Originally Posted by 1hank1

It not who knows more. It's how it works in the field for personal experence - something you clearly do not have..

You keep on quoting your experience with diff locks. Did you actually fit yours or did you pay someone to do it?

Originally Posted by 1hank1

First, a twisted axle is not a "shock loaded" axle. The only time you're going to get "shock load", as you out it, is when the axles breaks...

I love this one. Shock loads don't break axles.. I suppose this is based on your real life experience.

Originally Posted by 1hank1

Huh? Why would I supply you with this? I asked you for it! I know full well it does not exsist.

Finally an admission that any any proof of the axle breaking the diff lock does not exist. At least we are getting somewhere.

Originally Posted by 1hank1

Again, Huh? Please explain to me what you want to know fully.

Still avoiding the question. You can offer no explanation as to why it is the side of the DT with the broken axle that breaks and not the side still producing drive.

Originally Posted by 1hank1

Oh geez..... Do you know what "waisted" means? Do you understand why good axles are waisted? If not, just say so and I'll be happy to explain this to you, too. It will totally blow your theory out of the water..

Go on, blow my theory out of the water. Explain to me where this energy is stored. That huge amount of energy that is sufficient to blow a DT apart. I am waiting. i am not sure who many times I have to ask for it.

Originally Posted by 1hank1

I've answered this question MANY times for you, Ian. Even in my very first post I answered this question.

The answer is "no", the DT will not be locked in a Rover with the LT-230 unlocked.

I'm not going to explain this yet again to you. If you ant to read why, look back at my other posts. It in there 3 or 4 times...

Finally, you finally agree that the DT is not locked when turning a corner. That took a lot to get out of you.

Originally Posted by 1hank1

A Series LAND ROVER has a part-time t-case. So yes, MOST VEHICLES.

Another good laugh in this one. Series landrovers are "most vehicles"

Originally Posted by 1hank1

Engine breaking has nothing to do with it, Ian. Why do you not understand that?
If you're going in a straight line, engine breaking or not, the DT is LOCKED. That includes "downhill". In your question, you said "when enging breaking going downhill". YES, the DT will be locked.
Huh? Are you going so fast backing up that the engine brakes your speed?? Do you even understand what enging brakeing is?
I know when I back up out of a parking spot, typically, I have one foot on the brake - or, at least resting on the brake. That's called "BRAKEING", not "engine brakeing".
BTW, it's brake, not break. Break is when you break something; brake is when you slow something..

So what you are saying is that because you reverse with your foot on your brake, the DT unlocks. But would'nt your foot on the brake cause the pinnion to be under load. I thought you said that whenever the pinion is under load the diff is locked? Do you understand the forces being placed on the drive train when engine braking.?

Originally Posted by 1hank1

Again, Ian. How many O-ringS are in the ARB air locking diff?..

When you were including "O" rings as a fault you were also including air lines, compressors, solenoids, etc, etc. So how many "O" rings are there in the complete system? But if we want to now stick to your restricted area of just the locking mechanism inside the diff. Have a look at this and count them. I will even help you..... 1....... 2. I know that this is a bit advanced for your maths level.
http://www.arbusa.com/alac/alsp/5-01.pdf

Originally Posted by 1hank1

What is it made is, Ian? Humor me!

Go into your local auto parts store and ask for a rubber "O" ring in the size that you need for your diff lock. Then fit it and see how long it lasts!!!

Originally Posted by 1hank1

You coast into the turn, tight to the inside. Upon exit, you give throttle and drift to the outside.

You went to a driving course that taught you to coast into and through a corner. Go ask for you money back!

Originally Posted by 1hank1

"Regular" driving course of not, it's more than you've had.

You keep on trying to prove your dick is bigger. I already know that mine is and have nothing to prove.

Originally Posted by 1hank1

I stated I run Valovine 90w. You claimed that this was the "incorrect" oil to use. Just for shits and giggles, I e-mailed ARB. Here is their responce. Feel free to validate it!!!!!

So they recommended Valvoline 90W for rock crawling and off-road work, did they? Keep on using the oil that you have then. Just don't complain about metal filings in your oil and "O" rings leaking.

Originally Posted by 1hank1

Still, Ian, where are your pictures of your set-up? I thought you were going to post some?????

Still attempting to figure out your interest in this. I know it has nothing to do with where my switches are located. But I was still going to post them last night, as it would be worth the laugh to see you shoot yourself in the foot again. But unfortunately my daughter had the memory card out of the camera as she was getting some photos printed. I might get it back tonight.

Originally Posted by 1hank1

If you keep on, I'm going to make you eat your words about how a larger tire does not effect axles or place more stess on them. Remember that thread? I do.

Do you really want to get in that discussion? Haven't you shot yourself enough already? More than happy to discuss. Either reopen the thread you are referring to or start a new one.

[1hank1]

Originally Posted by jimfoo

What part do you think I am leaving out? Bill knew I broke lots of axles as I wheel hard for having a Series. Having low power, sometimes you need more momentum to make steep hills or rock sections. If there are bumps, you may loose traction, so the axles will get shock loaded. As you know, that's what breaks them. I'm not positive, but I think it broke going up the right side of Wipeout Hill in Moab, if you know that trail. I didn't quite make the top and it started hopping when I tried to start up from where I stopped on the hill.

It's not so much that I don't believe you that you broke an axle. And it's not that I don't believe how you broke it. I just think there is more to it than that.

I have a feeling, and I have no way to confirm it unless Bill Davis jumps in here, that the "GBR Axles" you had are not the same "HD" axles that we know today. You'd have to be pretty hardcore to snap a 24-spline 4340 Chromo or 300m shaft in a Series truck. And really, I can't see anyone doing it at all with the size tires we traditionally see on Series trucks in the States and the HP involved.

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by 1hank1

Oh man, good stuff! Running 35's

You can just answer the question I posted in that thread if you like. Here is a reminder:
"A rangie can pull 4 tonne in standard form. Adding bigger tyres is not going to add any more stress to the drive train than having a huge load hanging off the back of the car."

Come on Hank, I am interested in how you will explain how turning over 35's add more stress than pulling 4 tonne. Also remember your previous statements that shock loading does not break axles.

[jimfoo]

Well if he had 2 different types of steel, I imagine I had the first variety. I was hard on them for 2 years before it broke, including shearing 11 teeth off my ring gear.

[p76rangie]

I was going to wait and scan the original documentation that came with my diff lock before finally putting you out of you misery about the oil. But this will have to do. This is a quote from the fitting instructions supplied by ARB on the Zook website:
"12. Refill axle housing with good quality differential oil, referring to vehicle manufacturer's specifications for the oil type and quantity. Although the AIR LOCKER does not require any special gear oil, we recommend using a limited slip differential oil to maximize the life of all differential components."

Then this is one from the fitting instructions quoted on the Jeep website:
"ARB Air Locker Installation


for a model RD30 Air Locker to be installed in a Dana 30 axle


Nov 1, 2005
By:ORC STAFF

Jeep at Off-Road.com

ARB Air Locker Installation
17. Refill the axle housing with good quality differential oil, referring to the manufacturers' specifications for the oil type and quantity.
o Although the Air Locker does not require any special gear oil, ARB recommends using a limited slip differential oil to maximize the life of all differential components."

Then this is a link to the oil recommended by ARB as regard to Viscosity. You will note that for any real off road work you should use 85/140
http://www.arbusa.com/alac/alsp/6-01.pdf

So if you are going to fake emails from ARB, at least do a decent job of it next time!!!

[1hank1]

Do you even know how a diff works?
To answer your question, both wheels will get power under the circumstances described.

LOL, so now a stock diff is a locker? Unbelievable....

You keep on quoting your experience with diff locks. Did you actually fit yours or did you pay someone to do it?

Hahaha, you moron. The day I pay someone to work on my truck is the day I sell it.

I love this one. Shock loads don't break axles.. I suppose this is based on your real life experience.

Sure, shock loads break axles. That is not what I said, moron. You claim that the DT's break axles by shock loading them. That is not true. A broken axle breaks the DT.

Finally an admission that any any proof of the axle breaking the diff lock does not exist. At least we are getting somewhere.

Show me a broken diff that was NOT a result of a broken axle then. I'm still waiting!

Please, prove me wrong!!

Still avoiding the question. You can offer no explanation as to why it is the side of the DT with the broken axle that breaks and not the side still producing drive.

Dude, you are making no fuck sense! Are you trying to say that the axle that breaks is the one with traction?

Go on, blow my theory out of the water. Explain to me where this energy is stored. That huge amount of energy that is sufficient to blow a DT apart. I am waiting. i am not sure who many times I have to ask for it.

The Maxi-Drive shafs have the proper design. The diameter of shafts is equal to the mean diameter of the splines. That way, the shaft is of uniform thickness through its entire length, or at least as much as is practicable given the splines, oil seal, and such. Shock loads through the shaft are distributed throughout the entire shaft and the shaft flexes uniformly for its entire length. This designs gives much more longevity than the RoverTracks design which is thick for its entire length and then steps down to a small diameter where it plugs into the diff.

This principle is easy to ilustrate. Take a chain with all but one of the links being 3/8" size. The link in the middle is a 5/16" link. Subject that chain to shock loads. The chain will, of course, break at the 5/16" link all else being equal. This is no surprise. But what is surprising is that chain will also break faster than a chain that has all 5/16" links. Why? Because that single 5/16" takes the hit to the chain while the 3/8" links don't budge. The chain with all 5/16" links distributes the repeated shock loads among all of the links.

Take a plastic ruler that is 2" thick and cut down a portion of it to 1" thick. Then twist the ruler. The ruler will snap at the 1" thick section. Then take a plastic ruler that is 1" thick for its entire length. That rule will twist a lot more and take much greater twist load than the first ruler did.

These are examples off the top of my head. I know it's hard, but think about it for a while. Many more examples will occur to you. But actually think about something before you say that beefier is better. -JL

So, with a waisted design, the engery is stored in the waised part of the shaft. As that axle twists, and ultimatly breaks, all that re-coiled energy produces SHOCK OVERLOAD! Thus, the result is a broken Detroit.

Stock axles have a waisted design, which is awesome. This is what allows the axles to twist up to 180+- degrees. What sucks is, the stock axles are made of shit material.

Finally, you finally agree that the DT is not locked when turning a corner. That took a lot to get out of you.

THE DT IS LOCKED WHEN THERE IS POWER TO THE PINION.

Another good laugh in this one. Series landrovers are "most vehicles"

Would it have been correct to say "all vehicles"? Does everyone on this fourm drive land rovers with Lt-230's?

Are Land Rovers the majority of the vehicles that fit a Detroit locker?

I'll say it again, MOST VEHICLES that fit a DT do not have a AWD t-case. In MOST VEHICLES, the is power to the pinion when makeing a turn.

You're just too stupid to understand the answers that are directly in front of you.

So what you are saying is that because you reverse with your foot on your brake, the DT unlocks. But would'nt your foot on the brake cause the pinnion to be under load. I thought you said that whenever the pinion is under load the diff is locked? Do you understand the forces being placed on the drive train when engine braking.?

Oh my God!! My sides are starting to hurt this is so fucking funny!

What puts power to the pinion, Ian? Your foot on the brake or your foot on the gas? You got a 50/50 chance here.

And here you go about engine brakeing again....

Engine Braking:
an engine brake for truck diesel engines that cuts off fuel flow and interrupts the transfer of mechanical energy to the drive mechanism.

or

the act of using the energy-requiring compression stroke of the internal combustion engine to dissipate energy and slow down a vehicle.

So, again, do you back up so fucking fast that you rely on the damn engine to brake you???? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAA! You're clueless, Ian.

I don't know what you drive, but my engine powers me backwards - it does not brake me....

When you were including "O" rings as a fault you were also including air lines, compressors, solenoids, etc, etc.

That is soooooo fucking correct, Ian.

So how many "O" rings are there in the complete system? But if we want to now stick to your restricted area of just the locking mechanism inside the diff. Have a look at this and count them. I will even help you..... 1....... 2. I know that this is a bit advanced for your maths level.
http://www.arbusa.com/alac/alsp/5-01.pdf

Good boy!!! You finally went and looked it up! You even posted the web site you found it on.

You can claim that you knew the answer to this, but we all know you did not. You had to look the answer up before you knew the answer.

You tried to say "1" on several occasions.That answer is not correct.That answer is not correct anywhere. Even on your air line, you have 2 O-rings; one at the pump side and 1 at the diff side. You then have 2 inside the diff; the inner and the outter. The one on the inside of the diff are the problem areas. The ones insode the diff are not a "5-minute fix".

Go into your local auto parts store and ask for a rubber "O" ring in the size that you need for your diff lock. Then fit it and see how long it lasts!!!

Humor me, Ian! Tell me what the rings are made of! I'm waiting!!

You went to a driving course that taught you to coast into and through a corner. Go ask for you money back!

Ever watching racing, Ian? Have you ever raced? Do you even know what a race car is?

Here is a video that shows a race car, in a driving school, diving into a corner. Once in the corner, you can start to drive out. Just as I said......
YouTube - Denny Aungst's in car camera at Dover Nascar School

I drive Emergency Vehicles weekly, sometimes daily, Ian. I drive these vehicles at a very high rate of speed with others in the vehicle with me. Both my safety and theirs is at risk. In other words, I know how to fucking drive, Ian. I've never had an accident in these vehicles. And, I'm tested on my skills monthly. I know how to take a corner.

You keep on trying to prove your dick is bigger. I already know that mine is and have nothing to prove.

Who is talking about dicks?

So they recommended Valvoline 90W for rock crawling and off-road work, did they? Keep on using the oil that you have then. Just don't complain about metal filings in your oil and "O" rings leaking.

Oh man, Ian. You're so fucking clueless.

Please, post something different.

That e-mail I posted had nothing to do with "rock crawling" or "off-road". It had everything to do with you not knowing what the fuck you're talking about.

Still attempting to figure out your interest in this. I know it has nothing to do with where my switches are located. But I was still going to post them last night, as it would be worth the laugh to see you shoot yourself in the foot again. But unfortunately my daughter had the memory card out of the camera as she was getting some photos printed. I might get it back tonight.

Yeah, very convient. but yes, I really want to see this. Make sure you include a picture where we can see the color of your blue paint, too. Anything else will be bogus.

Do you really want to get in that discussion? Haven't you shot yourself enough already? More than happy to discuss. Either reopen the thread you are referring to or start a new one.

Oh, yes!! I'd really like to discuss it!!

Lets talk about how you tried to say you had two lockers!!!

Let also point out where you said you've sent you "ARBs" for repair "several times", even though you claim to have never had problem in this thread!

Let also talk about where you claimed to have Maxi-Drive axles in that thread, but said HD axles are a waste in this thread.

You're an idiot , Ian.

........I'm really like the Spring thread, though. You know, the one where you state that the springs are too stiff to allow front end flex, lol.

[sideview]

Originally Posted by 1hank1

Lets talk about how you tried to say you had two lockers!!!

Let also point out where you said you've sent you "ARBs" for repair "several times", even though you claim to have never had problem in this thread!

Let also talk about where you claimed to have Maxi-Drive axles in that thread, but said HD axles are a waste in this thread.

You're an idiot , Ian.

........I'm really like the Spring thread, though. You know, the one where you state that the springs are too stiff to allow front end flex, lol.

As I said last night, liar liar pants of fire Ian

[1hank1]

Lets see here, In post number 91 you said:

I have had none of the issues you list with the ARB. I did once put a self tapping screw through the airline. But problem airlines can be fixed in 5 minutes on the trail.

But, if we look back on this thread, in post 20, you said:

I have had my lockers back to ARB a couple of times. They can't do enough for you

So, what is it, Ian? Did you, or did you not ever have problems with your ARB?

[1hank1]

I should receive this commet as Church!

Originally Posted by kevinNY

There is no sense argueing with you Ian, you really are just not that bright.

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by 1hank1

LOL, so now a stock diff is a locker? Unbelievable.....

So what you saying is that a locker has benefits other than to stop a wheel from spinning? Come on, stop avoiding the answer. How will a diff lock help when the two wheels involved have perfect traction?

Originally Posted by 1hank1

Hahaha, you moron. The day I pay someone to work on my truck is the day I sell it.

Then actually read the manufacturers manuals when fitting something. It also might help not to do it with your eyes closed.

Originally Posted by 1hank1

Sure, shock loads break axles. That is not what I said, moron. You claim that the DT's break axles by shock loading them. That is not true. A broken axle breaks the DT.

So you admit that the most common cause of a broken axle is shock loading. It is just your educated opinion that this never occurs with a DT.

Originally Posted by 1hank1

Dude, you are making no fuck sense! Are you trying to say that the axle that breaks is the one with traction?.

M..a..y..b..e.. i..f.. I.. s..p..e..a..k.. m..o..r..e.. s..l..o..w..l..y
Your saying it is the shock load that breaks the DT. To have a impact from a shock load, the shock has to be apllied to something. The most likely point for this shock to be applied to is the wheel(axle) that is in contact with the ground (not broken). Therefore you would expect the impact to be felt by the drive flange connected to that axle. But it is the other side of the DT that breaks. So the shock on that side must have had something to impact against. This would indicate that the broken axle was still in one piece and contacting the ground when the DT went bang!!!.

Originally Posted by 1hank1

The Maxi-Drive shafs have the proper design. The diameter of shafts is equal to the mean diameter of the splines. That way, the shaft is of uniform thickness through its entire length, or at least as much as is practicable given the splines, oil seal, and such. Shock loads through the shaft are distributed throughout the entire shaft and the shaft flexes uniformly for its entire length. This designs gives much more longevity than the RoverTracks design which is thick for its entire length and then steps down to a small diameter where it plugs into the diff.

This principle is easy to ilustrate. Take a chain with all but one of the links being 3/8" size. The link in the middle is a 5/16" link. Subject that chain to shock loads. The chain will, of course, break at the 5/16" link all else being equal. This is no surprise. But what is surprising is that chain will also break faster than a chain that has all 5/16" links. Why? Because that single 5/16" takes the hit to the chain while the 3/8" links don't budge. The chain with all 5/16" links distributes the repeated shock loads among all of the links.

Take a plastic ruler that is 2" thick and cut down a portion of it to 1" thick. Then twist the ruler. The ruler will snap at the 1" thick section. Then take a plastic ruler that is 1" thick for its entire length. That rule will twist a lot more and take much greater twist load than the first ruler did.

These are examples off the top of my head. I know it's hard, but think about it for a while. Many more examples will occur to you. But actually think about something before you say that beefier is better. -JL

So, with a waisted design, the engery is stored in the waised part of the shaft. As that axle twists, and ultimatly breaks, all that re-coiled energy produces SHOCK OVERLOAD! Thus, the result is a broken Detroit.

Stock axles have a waisted design, which is awesome. This is what allows the axles to twist up to 180+- degrees. What sucks is, the stock axles are made of shit material.?.

Very interesting interpretation of how the shock load can be spread over a well made axle. But this is not what you were being asked, but again you avoid everything that goes against what you are trying to push. The question is: You state that it is the shock load from the axle breaking that destroys the DT. That means that some type of engery has to be stored in something that is in contact with the DT. The only part remaining in contact with the DT is approximately 1 inch of broken axle. How does this small piece of metal store enough energy to break the diff?

Originally Posted by 1hank1

Oh my God!! My sides are starting to hurt this is so fucking funny!

What puts power to the pinion, Ian? Your foot on the brake or your foot on the gas? You got a 50/50 chance here.

And here you go about engine brakeing again....

Engine Braking:
an engine brake for truck diesel engines that cuts off fuel flow and interrupts the transfer of mechanical energy to the drive mechanism.

or

the act of using the energy-requiring compression stroke of the internal combustion engine to dissipate energy and slow down a vehicle.

So, again, do you back up so fucking fast that you rely on the damn engine to brake you???? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAA! You're clueless, Ian.

I don't know what you drive, but my engine powers me backwards - it does not brake me....

You keep on avoiding the questions. When you are reversing you have power to the pinion. You state that the DT is ALWAYS locked when there is power to the pinion. Yet you also state that it is unlocked when reversing. So just tell us which one is true.

We are not talking about truch engine brakes here. You are just attempting to avoid answering anything. With engine braking (in a 4wd terminology) the power is coming from the wheels through to the motor. That is the reverse direction to what it normally does. When you reverse, the power through the DT is going in the opposite direct to what it normally does. So the forces operating on the DT are the same. Is this sooooo hard for you to understand.

So make up your mind! is it locked in reverse, is it locked when power is to the pinion, is it locked when engine braking going down a hill

Originally Posted by 1hank1

Good boy!!! You finally went and looked it up! You even posted the web site you found it on.

You can claim that you knew the answer to this, but we all know you did not. You had to look the answer up before you knew the answer.

You tried to say "1" on several occasions.That answer is not correct.That answer is not correct anywhere. Even on your air line, you have 2 O-rings; one at the pump side and 1 at the diff side. You then have 2 inside the diff; the inner and the outer. The one on the inside of the diff are the problem areas. The ones insode the diff are not a "5-minute fix

After the song and dance you did about there being only 1 "O" ring, and being proven wrong, you now try to convince us that you knew it all along. Most people here aren't that thick. And now you state that there are "O" rings on the air lines. On the diff end there is a copper ring, on the solenoid end it simply slips into the solenoid. Where are these "O" rings you talk about.

Originally Posted by 1hank1

I drive Emergency Vehicles weekly, sometimes daily, Ian. I drive these vehicles at a very high rate of speed with others in the vehicle with me. Both my safety and theirs is at risk. In other words, I know how to fucking drive, Ian. I've never had an accident in these vehicles. And, I'm tested on my skills monthly. I know how to take a corner.

So taking a corner correctly is coasting into it, through it, and then only drive out of it. I am glad I am not in that vehicle with you. And they let you do this with a basic driving course?

Now tell us exactly what type of emergency vehicle you drive and where you drive it.

Originally Posted by 1hank1

Yeah, very convient. but yes, I really want to see this. Make sure you include a picture where we can see the color of your blue paint, too. Anything else will be bogus

Oh, yes!! I'd really like to discuss it!!
Lets talk about how you tried to say you had two lockers!!!..

Thanks for that, now I do not have to post the pictures to find out what you are getting at. Are you so desperate as to try and claim I do not have ARB lockers. Why not, you accuse everyone of lying when they say something that you disagree with.

Originally Posted by 1hank1

Let also point out where you said you've sent you "ARBs" for repair "several times", even though you claim to have never had problem in this thread!

Post the times I have said this and the context. I honestly can't remember ever saying this.

Originally Posted by 1hank1

Let also talk about where you claimed to have Maxi-Drive axles in that thread, but said HD axles are a waste in this thread.

.
Your pulling out all stops now. You have actually been doing some research. Good on you. Now if you like to read any of my previous posts you will know that I ran standard axles for years with a locker. You will also note that I went to maxidrive axles in the rear only when I went to 4.11 diffs. You should also note that in this thread and others, I have always stated that you need Hd axles in the rear when you go to 4.11's

BANG BANG. shot yourself again.

Originally Posted by 1hank1

........I'm really like the Spring thread, though. You know, the one where you state that the springs are too stiff to allow front end flex, lol.

So you keep on proving that you know SFA about suspension or diff locks.

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by 1hank1

Lets see here, In post number 91 you said:


But, if we look back on this thread, in post 20, you said:


So, what is it, Ian? Did you, or did you not ever have problems with your ARB?

Yes you can fix an airline on the trail in 5 minutes. Seeing that you have a fixation with this, I will explain it to everyone. If you look at where your airlines connect to the solenoids you will notice a orange ring. By simply prssing this ring the airline will come out. You can then simply push it back in. Not very difficult is it. Now ARB sell these connectors in a double sided configeration for joing airline. They only cost a few dollars each. So if you put a hole in you airline, simply cut out the leak and put one of the joiners in. If the line is destroyed over a longer distance, you just carry a small length of the airline hose and two of the quick connects. So Hank, how long would it take to cut a piece of plastic pipe and push the two ends into a connector. It probably would take you a few hours, but most people could do it in 5 minutes.

In regard to the problems with the ARB locker that I had, please post the link to the thread. I can guarantee that it does not list any of the issues that you stated. That is, I have NEVER had any of the problems you stated except I was stupid enough to put a self tapping screw through the air line and not realise it. Hardly a fault with the locker.