New Suspension Time (INPUT!)

[fivespddisco]

Originally Posted by p76rangie

You have not really stated why you want a 3 inch lift. If you stick to a 2 inch lift or less, you will only need to replace springs. Assuming that your current shocks still work.

With a 2 inch lift you should not need to adjust brake-lines or any other stuff. Most of these after market places attempt to sell you new shocks with a new set of springs. But the two events are not really related.

Yes and no. the shock will bottom out because it is not long enough. can you get by ........ yes.

His best bet would be to call ME , Steve at RTE , John at EE and even Steve at DAP .He can get an Idea of whats out there and how much it cost. Dont be afraid to ask the venders what they think about other venders products.

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by fivespddisco

Yes and no. the shock will bottom out because it is not long enough.

The new springs will most likely be no longer than standard. Therefore they will not bottom out any more than standard.

[ROVERNIT]

Originally Posted by p76rangie

The new springs will most likely be no longer than standard. Therefore they will not bottom out any more than standard.

I dont know about that Ian you and I have this discussion a many times when I picked up my springs they where a good 50mm longer then a 2 inch raised spring and dobinson advised that the 2 inch sping is longer then standard again

So I dont know about that

[fivespddisco]

Originally Posted by p76rangie

The new springs will most likely be no longer than standard. Therefore they will not bottom out any more than standard.

you have it backwards as you all ways do. the shock will open all the way Bottoming out. the other way when you close it all the way is Topping it out.
I broke a set " that is 2 " procomps by bottoming them out. they could not handle the wight of a load truck of road.

[Roverhound]

Originally Posted by p76rangie

Which are you saying is better, the pro-comp or OME. I have found OME to be very average.

Comparing the Pro Comps to the OME, the Pro Comp quality sucks. I'll agree, OME is average, Pro Comp is below average. Way below average. People here won't admit it because nobody wants to say they bought shit.
So Ian, what do you run?

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by Roverhound

Comparing the Pro Comps to the OME, the Pro Comp quality sucks. I'll agree, OME is average, Pro Comp is below average. Way below average. People here won't admit it because nobody wants to say they bought shit.
So Ian, what do you run?

I was running Koni gas adjustables. But I had a number of bad experiences (Failures) with them. A had previously purchased a Range Rover for spares. It had near new OME shocks on it. So when the Konis decided to pack it in again, I fitted the OME shocks. I find them way too soft and the car seems to be all over the place. I don't like them at all. So now I am not sure what to put on. The rover drivers here appear evenly split between Konis and Bilsteins. So I might try the Bilsteins next in a 2 inch extra length. Have not made up my mind yet.

[AAXD]

If you go with a 2" lift spring you can get away with standard length shocks without problems. I installed OME HD's in my D1 this past summer and I have a set of Bilsteins that have been on the truck for 3 years now. They are really stiff compared to others but I like them for a top heavy Disco with a SD roof rack. I'm not sure how much they limit flex, if any because I still run sway bars. I went ahead and got a shock drop kit from Rovers North when I did the lift and it seems to have helped. My thinking on the drop kit is that it returns the shock to the same position it would normally be in with standard springs and doesn't affect the valving. I still haven't tested my suspensin to its full potential and I probably won't until next spring when I remove the sway bars.

[roverandom]

If you don't intend on wheeling your rig hard I would only change the tires for now. Find a group of guys (club) to wheel with. Discover your own fav trails/terrain and then after you picked the brains of your cohorts, seen first-hand what works you will be in a much better position to decide what you really want and need.

As far as the US equipment dealers go (please don't take offence) they are to my eyes (British) way over priced. Having said that I can see that they are catering to a very small market here in NA so I can understand the price difference.

For myself, sometimes I buy stuff from the NA equipment venders, sometimes I buy British. It helps to find a few guy's in your area that need parts and 'bulk buy' and fill a container to help with shipping costs if you do this.

Thats just my 2c

[GDEclassic]

petey i am intrested in your springs, but prob. not your shocks. No offense but would like to buy those new. i do appreciate the offer. what state are you in?
WHy do i want the 3 in lift...Im just wondering if that extra inch over 2 inches requires more modification than just springs and shocks? and if it does...is it worth it to have one more inch?bigger tires?more clearance? or no? does it not really worth all the money and mods for just one inch I do plan for alot of weight and want to compensate, i dont want a 2 in lift to turn into a loaded 1 in lift.
Nobody touched on the Ranchos either...wtf
I understand thus so far by opinion...procomp ...decent...ome...average...bilstein?...rancho? Am i hearing Koni is good then?
Cones?
Retainers?
DO i need em? bumpstops?check straps?brake lines?
I am intigued by this drop shock kit from rovers north as well, feel free to enlighten me
Thanks guys, your on the ball on SUnday!
By the way, here she is, doesnt look like much now, she was nearly dead when i got her though.This is the first pic i have posted of her on here. 189k #171 GDE LOVE THIS![IMG][/IMG]

[roverandom]

Your Rover can carry alot of weight in stock form, but know this, on the trail alot of weight translates into 'stuck' and 'broken'.
for a example of this check out the guys in the fullsized rigs, running 44" tires, onboard air,welder, two winches and enough spare parts to build a new truck.....twice. These guys are always getting stuck and broken becuase they wheel with too much gear.

[GDEclassic]

roverrandom,
I do plan on having some fun with it wheeling, i enjoy a challenging trail. and id dont HAVE to rely on this car to drive everyday. ive been offroading since i could legally drive in a disco. so im not a novice. got some experience under my belt. new to rangies though.and im not gonna tow a yacht when i wheel, but i will be more than prepared w/lots of gear
oh yeah and ive got tires, MTR's. that was the first thing i did. I would like to order from europe though. wish i could make that happen. might have to give it a try.

[roverandom]

As for Bilstein, I have em and I love em.......I just don't like the price.
Rancho's.......I had em (on a full sized GMC 3/4 ton 4x4) and I hated em......but I really liked the price.
Cones vs Retainers.....thats always a good one, just do a thread search and make your own mind up on that.
Check straps are used if you need to work on your axle or change a tire and have really long travel suspension. They hold the axle in position (to the frame) "limiting" the travel so you can lift the tire off the ground with a jack.
Brake lines, for the money (not much moola) I would say always change out the brake lines for the steel braided ones. After all they are your brakes, your gonna need them sooner or later!
Bump stops, protect the suspension from bottoming out. Do you need them? If your gonna wheel heavy and cheap, I would say yes.
Remember that everyone has their own opinion on this stuff (including me).
Hope this helps.

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by GDEclassic

WHy do i want the 3 in lift...Im just wondering if that extra inch over 2 inches requires more modification than just springs and shocks? and if it does...is it worth it to have one more inch?bigger tires?more clearance? or no? does it not really worth all the money and mods for just one inch:

The extra inch does make a fair amount of difference in drive line angles and front wheel alignment. Can bring into account viabrations and vague handling.

Tyres that require more than a 2 inch spring lift are going to require you to start cutting guards and doors. So you start getting into a new area.

Just remember that you can do a body lift. Simple and cheaper than a spring lift. Keeps drive line angles, etc, and keeps the centre of gravity lower.

Originally Posted by GDEclassic

confused I do plan for alot of weight and want to compensate, i dont want a 2 in lift to turn into a loaded 1 in lift.

Unless you go with polyairs, you are going to end up with the rear of the vehicle at different heights from loaded to unloaded. You are not going to change this. You need to work out what your normal load is and set up the vehicle level at this point.

http://www.polyair.com.au/ They have been around a long time and can handle the wear and tear of off-road. Or your home grown version http://www.truckspring.com/coil-rite_639.html

Originally Posted by GDEclassic

DO i need em? bumpstops?check straps?brake lines?

If you lower the upper shock mounts or put longer shocks in off the standard mounts, you will need to lower the bump stops to stop the shocks reaching their minimum length. But if you don't lower the shock mount, or raise the shock mount with longer shocks, you do not need them.
Check straps are only really required if you use a high lift jack. Normal jacks that go under the diff won't need them.
You can move the mounting brackets for the brake lines rather than get longer custom ones. Keeps them standard and easily available.

[LR Max]

The "white body shocks" are literally, all the same. Ranchos, procomp, doestechs. All the same shock, just some badge engineering.

They are so cheap, that breaking them doesn't really matter. However, the OMEs will provide a better ride.

If you want the procomp-like shocks, all my buddies buy them from PORC (performance off road) in Atlanta, GA. Good price on such shocks. Call them up, tell them what you are doing. They can help.

If you want OMEs, call around for prices. When I bought mine 5 years ago, I got them from 4 wheel parts america for 30 bucks cheaper than everyone else (but that was 5 years ago, a lot could've changed).

Rovertym seems to be a good spring. Giving you lift without sacrificing axle articulation. OME HD springs will give you lift, but will kill the vehicle's ability to flex (seen this happen a number of times). I wouldn't worry about buying anything from the UK. Like others have said, there is a lot of good stuff being produced here in the US for cheap and probably a better product.