Photo Installation Guide: Mantec Snorkel for Series 1 Discovery

[01001010]

Though LONG overdue, I said I would do it, so here it is...

I will begin by saying that I purchased my snorkel from Stephen over at SafariRover in Orlando, Florida for an unbeatable price. All hardware is included, even an additional two brackets I didn't need. So if you need one, he's the man to contact. He is one of our fellow members - "SafariRover".

All hardware is included, even an additional two brackets I didn't need.

Besides wanting to make it easier for others to install their snorkels, I HAD to make this write up because the instructions provided by Mantec are REALLY BAD!

I began with taking the template, and cutting out the piece that I knew would be removed from the fender. This way you have a template that you can trace.

In order to trace it, you need to be able to make the lines on something clearly visable and reusable incase any mistakes are made, so I used masking tape. I placed enough of it on that area of the fender so I would later be able to tape the template over. Remember you will be cutting metal, so take your time in placing it. If done correctly, the right edge of the paper should line up with the edge of the fender, the piece right under the A-pillar should be lined up with the top edge of the fender in that corner, and the fold on the tab foward of the cut will also line up with the top of the fender. When you have it up, you can take a pencil or a sharpie and make the trace.

Once this is done, you are ready to remove the fender. I was a step ahead being that at the time, I did not have a front bumper. I had one less bolt to worry about. This is the one located on the bracket that goes from the bumper, to the bottom part of the fender.

Next, remove the head lamp, turn-signal, and the trim that runs underneath both. The trim is held in place by one screw. Once removed, slide it outwards from the grille.

You'll now need to remove the clips that hold the inner wheel well onto the fender, via small tabs. This will hurt as you will have to stuff your arm in there using long-nose pliers, while the aluminum on the inner fender eats at your skin.

Now you will remove the 4 bolts within the door frame. A long extension on your socket wrench will make removing these bolts much easier. If my memory serves me right it was a 10mm socket.

The next single bolt to remove will be the one that holds the bottom of the fender, aft of the tire, down to the sill. This one will require patience as the angle at which the bracket is at will only allow a socket to go in, but because there is minimal space, will take what seems forever to ratchet out.

Now you can remove the screws at the top of the fender. These will be the last ones holding the fender in place, so make sure to press yourself onto the fender so it doesn't fall off easily. Once its ready to come off, make sure to unplug the side marker bulb.

Because Mantel Snorkels are direct Land Rover Accessories, there is a rubber plug located infront of the wheel well. Remove it, as this is where the rubber hose for your snorkel will be going through.

Here comes the interesting part; being able to know you've done everything right to this point and start cutting! I used a handheld dremel with a metal-cutting disc. To get it right, you will have to cut on the outter part of the line you've traced. Just take it easy and do it right. Keep in mind that the lines don't have to be PERFECTLY round as there is a weather strip that will go on them later.

With the cut made, you are ready to apply the weather-strip to it. Mantec provided a little more than needed. Before cutting it, place it on the main cut, and take into consideration the cuts that will be hidden with the hood closed. After you've done this, remove the strip again as adjustment trims may be needed later.

The snorkel comes with four tabs...three on the lower pipe and one that will go bolted directly underneath the very front of the rain gutter on the roof. Have someone help you mock it up and mark the locations you will need to drill. For the upper tab that goes to the gutter, place the rear-facing top of the snorkel on it, then have someone hold it up fo you. Make your way to the front of the truck so you can eye-ball it and align it properly. Use lines such as the top of your windshield for reference. (I don't have pictures of this as I was aligning, and my dad was holding the snorkel up. The snorkel should follow the A-Pillar line and should BARELY be seen if sitting inside of the truck. With this done, you can now mark the other three holes on the inner fender.

If all tabs on all snorkels are place in the EXACT same location, then the top rear tab should end up in the cowl section (where the water that comes off the windshield drains too) and the other two aft of the air box. Before making any holes, make sure there aren't any hoses, lines, or cables on the other side of the inner fender that the drill bit might make contact with. If there are, move them. If you can't move them, the tabs on the snorkel itself are somewhat flimsy and can be bent up or down a few millimeters either way to gain clearance.

With the holes on the gutter and inner fender made, you can now put the snorkel down for a bit and prepare the Air Box.

You will need to remove the Trumpet-looking tube at the front of the box.

If you can remove yours by hand, without having to take the entire box out, more power to you. I certainly couldn't! I had to use a bit of Hammer-grease! I removed my air box and with a medium sized hammer, hit the small lip of the tube that's inside the box.

While I had it out, I went ahead and cleaned the box, as it held evidence that demonstrated why I needed a snorkel! With that done, I placed with air box back. This proved to be another task as the rubber bushings that hold the box in place are larger than the hole they have to go through.

You can now bolt your snokel in place with the hardware provided, pass the hose through the hole you unplugged earlier and clamp one of the ends of the hose to the snorkel using one of the hose clamps provided. Next you can clamp the other side of the hose onto the flange that remains on the air box.

With the snorkel in place, you can try fitting your fender again. Unless you're a skilled metal worker and have a good eye for making cuts, it is highly unlikely that you will NOT have to trim some more metal off the fender. I placed and removed mine about four times. For this task, I recommend placinng several layers of masking tape along the elbow of the snorkel so that the bare cut of your fender doesn't scratch your powder-coated snorkel.

Once you're able to get it on right, place the weather-strip on the cut and you're ready for reassembly. Try to get as much of the rubber hose on the engine side inner fender so that the hose doesn't interfere with the fender mounting process.

Since you've kept your hardware neatly organized, labeled, stored and know exactly where each bolt goes, reassembly should be a piece of cake. You'll probably have to stick your hand through the fender and innder fender to hold the hose down so you can place it properly.

I also recomment starting to bolt down again in a reverse order from which you unbolted. (Top, bottom, door frame, and front fender last) Working with body parts requires some force to get things aligned right again, so don't be afraid to bang the fender with your hands to get holes and lines aligned.

Last but not least, you are ready to place the tip of your snorkel. Because Mantec made the diameter of the flange on the tip a certain size and forgotto take into consideration the thickness of the powder-coating you'll find that you might have to force the tip on. The flange on the tip has two holes and two small screws are provided. One hole drilled at the front of the snorkel and a single screw used will be enough to hold the tip in place since its a tight fit anyway.

If you have a UK Flag decal from DAP layin around, the top of the tip is actually not a bad place to put it!

Replace your headlamp, turn signal, the trim that runs underneath and the bracket that goes from the fender to the bumper.

Congratulations, you have just installed a Mantec Snorkel on your D1! Now go test it out!!!

[01001010]

Guys, there are pics that I didn't take duringthe install that might make it a bit harder to work without, so I'll get those for you as soon as the weather dries up!

[BIRD]

It looks like you did a good job! How much was your kit? I am still kicking around the thought of a snorkel

[01001010]

Mine came out to 340 + like 40 bucks for shipping (pretty big box). He's up the road from me (4 hours away)...you're in Hawaii. I'll give him a call and see how much it'll be.

[Burns]

JC - that is a GREAT write up. Thanks for doing that.




p.s. you need to take some pictures of it put to use. :O)

Melissa

[01001010]

Originally Posted by Burns

JC - that is a GREAT write up. Thanks for doing that.




p.s. you need to take some pictures of it put to use. :O)

Melissa

Unfortunately, the times I've really used it, I've been the only truck. Another time a Freelander and I were crossing some really swampy areas where we really couldn't stop to take pics. Don't worry though. THe rainy season isnt over and the trails are FULL of water. I'll get some pics for everyone

[01001010]

By the way...I've got an Update to this install. It consists of completely waterproofing the entire intake system with Sylicone.

[natvboy]

What else on a DI is necassary for waterproofing in order to ford water up to the windshield as in the pic at the bottom of your write up (Yellow DI)? Other than extending the breather lines from the diffs?

[01001010]

For a proper fording vehicle, it is recommended that you relocate your ECU to somewhere inside the cab, smear dielectric grease on ALL connections under the hood, including plugs and wires and coilpack - plus covering the coil pack somehow, replacing the clutch fan to an electric fan, extended breather lines not only for the diff but for the Trans and Transfercase, and really good maintanence to keep it running.

[01001010]

Pictures uploaded again.

[LandGrover]

Thanks for the post. I don't have a snorkel to install (yet), but it really helped me pull the fenders from my disco, so I could do a little body work.

[drewclare25]

thanks for letting me know about stephen from safari rover, he's a good guy to work with...my snorkel is in the works now

[drewclare25]

i got my snorkel in from stephen earlier today, its installed already. The snorkel arrived with a few scratches on it, but i got it for an UNBEATABLE price b/c it came w/o hardware (even though it really came with it), all in all stephen is a great guy to do business with...

but i have a question...after several attempts at fitting it (and when i say several i mean two), we got the panel back on, and all the holes line up, but when i closed the hood i realized there's alot more space between the right front panel and the hood than the left front panel and the hood...it doesn't make sense b/c all the bolts and screws lined up...but any ideas?



oh yea one more thing...the screws on the top side of the panel (under the hood) look like the panel is tryin to pull out (further away from the truck)

[01001010]

Hmm..you may want to check the door bolts and make sure those are tight. Also, how did you refit the panel with the hose in the way...I had to use quite a bit of force to place the panel back on.

[drewclare25]

yeah we used a lot of force, all the bolts are tight and everything lines up...you can tell its tryin to pull away from the truck b/c of the screws on top of the panel aren't in the same place they were before...they're all in though