Spring dislocation cones

[fivespddisco]

Hey Rangie.

this is a real question. If the spring was made to stock specks but 5in taller would it not compress on its self to soon and limit upward travel? now make this spring strong enough to hold the extra weight of HD bumpers and slider and winches and skid plates and Expedition gear and food and and and and .... now this spring will be stiff. if it is stiffer to hold the weight it will ............................. I dont want to say it but dislocate under flex??? I put the question mark there because im trying to learn.

I am interested in your feed back.



And just one other point if you make the springs to soft It would be un-drivable over 20 mph

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by fivespddisco

Hey Rangie.

this is a real question. If the spring was made to stock specks but 5in taller would it not compress on its self to soon and limit upward travel? now make this spring strong enough to hold the extra weight of HD bumpers and slider and winches and skid plates and Expedition gear and food and and and and .... now this spring will be stiff. if it is stiffer to hold the weight it will ............................. I dont want to say it but dislocate under flex??? I put the question mark there because im trying to learn.
I am interested in your feed back.
And just one other point if you make the springs to soft It would be un-drivable over 20 mph

As previously indicated, there is a limit to the length that you can make a Rangie spring without causing bowing issues. I believe it is around 18 inches, which is around 2 inches over stock. I am not sure why you would want to do a 5 inch spring lift, but it would have to be a combination of length and stiffness.

The issue with a long spring binding up under full compression is real. That is why spring specs will often include how many coils and the diameter of the wire. You can have a longer spring with the same number of coils.

Yes, the weight on the spring will affect what spring you will have to fit. As in my previous comments, I had to go to a heavier and longer spring in the front to cater for the bull bar and winch. However, I chose those springs to keep the axle centred in the potential movement of the axle. That is, if the total axle movement I could get was 10 inches, I pick a spring that will give me 5 inch bump stop clearances. For example, If I started off with 1,000 lb of weight on each wheel and had 200 lb springs, it would mean that they would be compressed 5 inches. If I added 400 lb of weight in the back, the car would drop another inch (200 lb per side). To get in back to centre I need to raise the spring weighting up to 240lb per inch springs. Assuming that the old and new springs are the same length, it will not change the length of my useful articulation at all.

But if I put the 240lb springs in without the weight increase, then my springs would only be compressed a little over 4 inches and will dislocate with the wheel only dropping 4 inches compared to the 200lb springs droping 5 inches. I have reduced my effective articulation from 10 inches to 8. Therefore, the choice of spring will depend on the ride height you want and the weight on the spring.

As previously indicated, I would not recommend going any lighter springs than standard. Any increase in ride height will require a combination of spring length and stiffness.

I hope this adds to any information you already have and helps in any future decisions.