SubWoofer replacement

[Private Iron]

Alright, I asked for help a while back about my new headunit. Got that sorted. Now I want to replace the factory 6" subs. Bought 2 JL 6w0's to put in, but the magnets are too big to fit in the hole in the back door. So I figured I would get the saw out and make the hole a tad bigger, make a wooden frame to hold them that the factory trim piece will fit over. I think it should work, the measurements add up, but I was just wanting some input before I go screwing stuff up. Anyone think of any probs I might run into? Or maybe you have done it or seen it done? I know I am not the only one to want to do this. Any help would be more than welcome. Thanks

[Disco Mike]

Make sure you tighten up everything in the rear door to eliminate any speaker vibration.
Good luck,
Mike J.

[RobX4]

I was going to do the very same project after the first of the year. I even got the JL's for the install. I looked it over and there is no bracing or anthing to contend with. I am also going to use some Dynamat on the inside of the rear door to reduce resonance a bit. Please keep us "posted" as you start the project and I'll do the same.


Should be a clean install that sounds good.

[darkknight1999]

You better Dynamat that door or all your going to hear is the vibrations What your planning on should work fine. If your using MDF make sure you coat it in something to protect against it from getting wet. MDF will soak up water likes its nobodies business Seal it up with a good heavy coat of paint (black) or undercoating spray (which weill also help cut down on the vibrations as well). You can also make a new cover if need be very easily with some nice grille cloth. I can help you with that if need be. Just let me know.

[02disco2]

Are there any decent subs out there that will fit without modification? That could use the factory amplification without fussing too much? I'd also like to replace mine in the rear door as well as the lower units in my drivers and passenger doors.

[Private Iron]

As far as I can find, JL is the only one that makes a 6in. sub anymore. And the problem is that the magents on those things are huge, relatively speaking. I knew going off the measurements it was going to be a bit of a job, but once I actually got them, now I am not so sure. I would have to increase the width of the hole in the door by about 4in or so. However there is a fuse box (I think, I can only feel it) blocking me on the right and the storage pocket that sits next to the subs, blocking me on the left. I don't think I can squeeze out 4in without relocating the fuse box, or whatever it is. And then I would have to increase the height as well, but that is not a big deal.

And then a friend came over last night and made the point that for all the time and effort and keeping the factory look, most likely it would not sound as good as a 10in sub in a little open air box behind the seats. I am afraid he is right. So I think I may look at trying to put a box in the spot where the jump seats are supposed to go. With something like that I could kep the 6in's or move up to an 8 or 10" without doing any cutting to the car at all.

Anyway, not giving up yet on the subs in the doors, just got some thinking to do. Btw, I don't I ever said, but I have a DI. Heh, guess that helps when asking for advice.

[DiscoPilot]

I would be more inclined to make a custom box where the jump seat would sit. In my book 6's aren't subs, they are the woofers of component sets. I am planning on doing a largish custom box in the jump seat hole for a JL 12W6 V2 that will be on a JL 1000x1 amp. all the really matters is the airspace calcs as long as its going to be a sealed enclosure. If you wanted to do a ported enclosure you could as well but box planning get a little more complicated. Go to the best local custom audio store IE NOT best buy or Circuit city and talk to the installer about possibilties. my 2 cents ....ok maybe 3

[darkknight1999]

Originally Posted by DiscoPilot

I would be more inclined to make a custom box where the jump seat would sit. In my book 6's aren't subs, they are the woofers of component sets. I am planning on doing a largish custom box in the jump seat hole for a JL 12W6 V2 that will be on a JL 1000x1 amp. all the really matters is the airspace calcs as long as its going to be a sealed enclosure. If you wanted to do a ported enclosure you could as well but box planning get a little more complicated. Go to the best local custom audio store IE NOT best buy or Circuit city and talk to the installer about possibilties. my 2 cents ....ok maybe 3

Those JL are very nice, they pound! But for you to say that 6" subs aren't really subs is somewhat... well I'll just give this info for those that would just like to stick to replacing the rear door subs.

Here's some info on Focal subs. Take a look at the 5WS



The Focal 5WS is a very nice clean sounding sub. This sub is part of Focals Utopia line. The 5WS is a true subwoofer. The 5WS is designed to be in a vented enclosure, .3 cubic feet per driver. With a 1 inch diameter and 3 inch length port, the 5WS is tuned to play down to 38 Hertz. Being a 5 Ohm subwoofer, you can easily use multiple drivers to create the desired bass response. This is the perfect for the Disco, and you could change the inside of the box location to tune it perfectly. .3 is very little cubic feet.

Its just for everyones info... I just don't want people thinking that you can't get a great sounding sub in a small little package.

[DiscoPilot]

WOW now thats a tiny SUB! I've heard alot of different subs but I have found it hard to get the "feel" of the sound with anything smaller that a 10" except on very few occasions. Your right a Properly tuned small sub and enclosure can still accurately reproduce Sub type frequency, take the Bose acoustimass for example. Personally though My 12W6 V2 can feel like someone is hitting the back of your seat with a baseball bat, a def man can still enjoy my music

[darkknight1999]

Originally Posted by DiscoPilot

a def man can still enjoy my music

I love it!

[Private Iron]

Hey guys, thanks for the input. I went back to my local stereo shop yesterday evening to ask some questions. I think I am leaning towards a box in the back. He told me he would build me a box to fit in the jump seat space for $150. But I figured I could do it myself without to much trouble.

As far as what to put in it, I am thinking the JL 10w1v2. Both of you guys seem caught up on your Sub knowledge, any thought on that one? Shop guy told me for the price, $89, I probably wasn't going to find a better 10in. Also said that the w1v2 series are designed to require less are space making them good for someone that wants to conserve space. Anyway, whattaya think? And while I am at it, what should I push it with? JL recommemnds up to 200watts RMS.

[darkknight1999]

Originally Posted by Private Iron

Hey guys, thanks for the input. I went back to my local stereo shop yesterday evening to ask some questions. I think I am leaning towards a box in the back. He told me he would build me a box to fit in the jump seat space for $150. But I figured I could do it myself without to much trouble.

As far as what to put in it, I am thinking the JL 10w1v2. Both of you guys seem caught up on your Sub knowledge, any thought on that one? Shop guy told me for the price, $89, I probably wasn't going to find a better 10in. Also said that the w1v2 series are designed to require less are space making them good for someone that wants to conserve space. Anyway, whattaya think? And while I am at it, what should I push it with? JL recommemnds up to 200watts RMS.

Wow a custom box for $150... that's pretty good. Make sure its a good box... seems almost to cheap. But then again I live in the north east and you'd be hard to find a pre-made box at a big box store for that much

You need to decide what kind of music you like. If you like tight accurate bass that sub is not for you. If you want sloppy loud bass that sub will be fine.

[Private Iron]

well, I listen to heavy metal mostly. I never listen to anything hip hop or anything else that requires loud booming bass. So I am guessing by your response, I need to go another direction? Any recommendations? 'Course, the closest thing I have had to a "system" is a 8" Kenwood Bass tube, which I really liked, so I guess I was assuming that whatever I got was probably going to be a step up. I don't want to spend more than 250 or so for a speaker and amp, so I know I am not going to get the best out there.

[DiscoPilot]

I think you are on the right track. Darknight night i'm not sure which JL's you have heard and what defination of clean tight bass sounds like but I have always found a properly powered and setup JL combo in a sealed box is very clean. I here far to many JL subs on shit box amps with not enough power and some preschool kid playing with a amp settings. Yes and underpowered improperly tunes JL sounds like crap. However this sub in a 10" will be very tight in a good sealed enclosure on a JL 250x1. Don't get me wrong I am not by nature a bass head, I have 2 full MB Quart Q series comp set in my car on 2 JL 300x4 amps. Just their info below though i'm sure you've read it by now. Unless you have built a custom box before i urge you to spend some cash and have a professional build it. He gave you a resonable price and I'm sure he'll also properly tune the system once installed. How well and enclosure is built and tuned can make or break a system.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=251 Amp Info
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s....php?page_id=7 Sub info

Yes there are tighter subs but for the money... I'd go with the above.
and if i can make my 12w6v2 sounds tight and clean. Then this should sound tight as a tic

[Private Iron]

Thanks for the info Pilot. But when it comes to purchasing stuff, I am nothing if not thorough, I have been reading up on JL's website and comparing their stuff to others for days now. I have already looked at both of those pages, and more. But hey, thanks again for lookin out for me. I was actually thinking I might have to go with the e1200 amp purely on price reasons, shop guy recommended it as an alternative to the more expensive amp. But the 250/1 is the best one for sure.

As far as building the box, I can get a very basic, but well made, sealed box for $50 at the shop I have been going to. So I was thinking I would buy the box and mess around with building one as more of a side project.