Synthetic gearbox oil

[me.guevara]

Food for thought:

My undergraduate degree is Enginerding (U Wisconsin - Madison), and I seem to recall that one of my professors stated that internal combustion engine oil needs a "little" carbon residue to really lubricate properly. It turns out that, like its cousin graphite, loose carbon deposits actually help build the thin barriers between the metal to metal contact. Thus, he concluded, an engine that always operates with fresh oil will last less than one that uses the same oil for while (he had some lab research results to back up his claim, too). The maintenance cycle is dictated by the breakdown of the oil (loss of lubricating properties) and the buildup of larger particles (increased abrasion). Then again, that was 1991, maybe things have changed.

I know absolutely nothing about how synth oil performs, but I recall that in the first versions of the stuff, you couldn't mix it with traditional oil - I'm sure that has changed.

Cheers,

[Brutus]

I don't think that using synthetic in the trans is a big deal but still do not think it is necessary. The transfer case is seperate from the transmission. The drain is on the bottom of the flat surface of the transfer case and the fill is behind the brake drum. I doubt that you will mess anything up in the trans if you use synthetic. Many of the transmission additives that you can buy at your local parts house will have some synthetic properties. I just personally feel that synthetic transmission fluid is better left to the non-servicable transmissions.

Hey, this is fun

[Brutus]

Let me say one more thing. The 95 to 02 Range Rover (P38) uses transmission fluid, not gear oil, in the transfer case. I was thinking this morning that I may have been too general on my previous posts.

[FlyWheel]

Originally Posted by me.guevara

Food for thought:

My undergraduate degree is Enginerding (U Wisconsin - Madison), and I seem to recall that one of my professors stated that internal combustion engine oil needs a "little" carbon residue to really lubricate properly. It turns out that, like its cousin graphite, loose carbon deposits actually help build the thin barriers between the metal to metal contact. Thus, he concluded, an engine that always operates with fresh oil will last less than one that uses the same oil for while (he had some lab research results to back up his claim, too). The maintenance cycle is dictated by the breakdown of the oil (loss of lubricating properties) and the buildup of larger particles (increased abrasion). Then again, that was 1991, maybe things have changed.

I know absolutely nothing about how synth oil performs, but I recall that in the first versions of the stuff, you couldn't mix it with traditional oil - I'm sure that has changed.

Cheers,

Me.guevara,
I am with you on this 100%. I dont have an engineering degree however oil has detergents...if you keep cleaning a clean engine, how can the viscous molecules (which is necessary for protection) stick to the cylnder walls?

One update: you can now mix synthetic with regular engine oils...at least AMSOIL approves it.
I swear by AMSOIL. My first BMW was a 74 Bavaria 3.0s. I drove it from New York To Houston on a knocking engine. When I arrived I was introduced to AMSOIL. After using it the knock stopped and I had more power (rebuilt engine 20,000 miles later).
I have used it in my M5 for the past 130,000 miles with no problems. (changed every 10,000 miles..yes 10,000 miles)
AMSOIL is currently used in my 2001 Disco wall to wall...i.e engine, trans, difs, transfer case...and when I finally locate the greasing points...AMSOIL will be there. I also use in in my wheel bearings. A very English service rep at the local dealer advised against Synthetic in the tranny. However after talking to my AMSOIL distributor who races at Daytona (Bob Speed..hell of a name for a race car driver), he indicated that if AMSOIL can take the abuse of Daytona Beach it should be ok in a Land Rover. I think he has a valid point. He also indicated that the REP was only stating/repeating what Land Rover stated. After spending $7.80 per quart on AMSOIL, I have no plan of a 3K interval oil change..more like 7K. Of course its still a personal choice. The key to any oil is it breakdown point.
A good oil will not form bubbles in any condition..if it bubbles its not protecting your engine.

Tex are you out there?
What kind of performance are you getting from AMSOIL in the Tranny and what year is your Disco? Mine is the '01 with the BMW ZF tranny.
Does anyone have any technical data on why Land Rover has issues with Synthetics in the Tranny? Please post.

[imag]

Hi FlyWheel,
Can you tell me what AMSOIL (part#, spec's) are you using in your Disco's transfer case ?

[02disco2]

Interesting. My dealer told me to start using Redline in my T-Case. He said it will quiet down and perhaps even eliminate the standard T-Case whine.

All I know about synthetics is that I used Mobil 1 in one of my previous Audi's and I smoked the engine at 60K. I then switched to Amsoil and with a heavier state of tune, never had one issue. Same goes for the tranny on that vehicle. I smoked (2) transmissions running OEM fluids, switched to Redline and there wasn't a single issue. (AutoX'ed it)

[Capt. Ron]

o2disco2- could it just be your driving habbits?
I thought synthetics were designed to "stick" to internal parts, remember slick 50? So why would a mechanic say they drain off? ALL oils drain off to some extent. I've owned a few high-revving cars over the last few years and use a thicker oil. So when I couldn't find enough of my normal oil, for my motorcycles oil change, I went with a typ. 10w-30/40. I won't do that again. It's way past break-in but it seems that on 10w-30/40, it heats up MUCH faster and stays hotter; keepin the nards all warm.

Like Brutus said...about changing your oil often and spending more for syn. I think 3k is too soon. My stuff is clean well over 4k. So I change it when it starts to turn dark. Everyone swears by a certain product, me included.

Point: keep it lubed, pun intended.

[02disco2]

Originally Posted by Capt. Ron

o2disco2- could it just be your driving habbits?
I thought synthetics were designed to "stick" to internal parts, remember slick 50? So why would a mechanic say they drain off? ALL oils drain off to some extent. I've owned a few high-revving cars over the last few years and use a thicker oil. So when I couldn't find enough of my normal oil, for my motorcycles oil change, I went with a typ. 10w-30/40. I won't do that again. It's way past break-in but it seems that on 10w-30/40, it heats up MUCH faster and stays hotter; keepin the nards all warm.

Like Brutus said...about changing your oil often and spending more for syn. I think 3k is too soon. My stuff is clean well over 4k. So I change it when it starts to turn dark. Everyone swears by a certain product, me included.

Point: keep it lubed, pun intended.

Who me??? Maybe

When you burn a candle at both ends, it doesn't last very long. Well, at least it didn't for me! Anyway, I love Amsoil products.