I just bought a 2001 Range Rover with 88k miles from a Public Auction. Well 2 days later it begins to ride rough and the Check Engine Light came on. I get the following codes.
check for proper install of the coil wires or any white tipped wires that are damaged from the heat.
If you got this from a public Auction bring it to a dealer to have it looked over before something bad goes wrong. Only a dealer can access air suspension, srs, hvac and any other systems. They can spot problems before you are screwed.
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I work on Rovers. Got a question just ask.
All P0 codes are generic trouble codes across makes. The ones you have are for cylinders 1 -3 misfires. I have not seen the "B" on the end of P0301 before. Check manual that came with your OBDII scanner to see if that notation is specific to the scanner in some way.
P1300 and P1319 are manufacturer specific. They may well have to do with your coils, however thats just conjecture based on your having a multi-cylinder misfire. I scanned the LR RAVE CD for more detail on these codes and they are not supplied. Unless someone on this board knows it or has a workshop manual with an OBDII section that has them, you'll need a dealer diagnosis before you make repairs - e.g. replacing plugs and wires may not be necessary if the only problem is w a coil.
If it is a coil problem, the Range Rover has 2 coil packs which are located in a tight spot on the back of the engine - hard to get to as they are obscured by the intake manifold and right up against the firewall. To replace one you probably have to remove the intake manifold.
Cylinders 2,3,5 and 8 are provided spark by one coil pack, I believe that internal to the pack, 2 and 3 are provided spark by the same actual coil. Anyway there are 2 coil packs, each has 2 coils, each coil serves spark to 2 cylinders. It could be that 2&3 are actually misfiring due to problem w coil, and this is causing a false reading on cyl 1 misfiring. Point is you won't really know until those P1 codes are diagnosed. A replacement Bosch coil pack for 99 - 04 P38 4.0 or 4.6 is 99.95 at ATL British.
My mechanic says its the Fuel Injectors. Do I have to replace all of them? Is it easy to tell which ones are bad? Can anyone a good place to order the fuel injectors from ?
did he look up those other codes? fuel injectors are pricey - Bosch fuel injectors are 154 at ATL British and as high as 204 at overnightautoparts.com.
My mechanic says its the Fuel Injectors. Do I have to replace all of them? Is it easy to tell which ones are bad? Can anyone a good place to order the fuel injectors from ?
get it away from your mechanic. trust me he didnt do shit to test those injectors. If he did he would have charged you an extra amount of time to pull the upper intake to access the injectors.
I do this for a living trust me we dont do injectors unless you have a really bad fuel problem caused by bad fuel.
ask your mechanic exactly what wires go where on the coil.
five bucks says the guy is clueless and just wants to spend your money. Spend the money for a decent diagnosis from a dealer or rover independant.
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I work on Rovers. Got a question just ask.
According to him he has no fuel pressure tester to test the fuel injectors. But he said he took them out to clean them and now they are fine. But he says I need a ignition coil. Its a 2001 Range Rover 4.6 HSE with 88k miles.
Do you guy think he maybe right with that idea? Is it easy to tell if you have a bad ignition coil? Or do you guys still think to go for new plugs and wires?
Personally I think you should still ask for the mehcanic decode for P1300 and P1319 which you said the car was getting. If those point to a bad coil then I'd replace coil. can start getting expensive to throw parts at this problem without knowing what the error codes are pointing to.
You have a considerable number of stored codes there. It is difficult to pick any one and say that is the problem. Seeing that you car only has 88K miles, I would not think that it was the injectors either. Start simple. Visually inspecting things can go a long way. Spark plug wires are very easy to replace and typically begin to leak electricity when old and heat damaged. Coil packs do eventually crack and can fail but still your car is very young for that.
I would be tempted to clear the codes, do a quick visual inspection for obvious things and let the car run a bit. See if any codes come back and focus on the first codes that come back.
Perhaps rovin4life can tell you what a dealer or indie mechanic would check first. Here's my recommendation.
Now that you have solved the spark problem, you have revealed problems with fuel/air mix. Good news is you did fix a significant problem that wasnt going away, and you did it yourself so you saved cost. Now you are able to detect the next problem.
Possibly the unburnt fuel from the bad coil caused problems w O2 sensor etc... or the two problems could just be coincidental.
Possible problems are:
-Mass Airflow Sensor (considertaking the MAF part of the intake plenum out and spraying it with a cleaner, then make sure its perfectly re-connected so there are no air leaks - ultimately MAF sensor may need to be replaced. i think its common with some GM cars so don't rush out and buy from Rover if you don't have to)
-Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (check for vacuum leak)
-Air intake leaks (make sure you got the intake manifold and all supply ducting perfectly re-installed)
-exhaust system leaks
-a problem w secondary air injection
-o2 sensor
-Engine Coolant Temperature sensor
-fuel pressure: pump, filter
-fuel quality: bad fuel
-and yes... injectors
The fact that both banks are running lean tends to argue against injectors being at fault. fuel pressure could be low - when was last time the fuel filter was changed, if ever? I'd check for airleaks around the intake manifold since you may have removed that to replace the faulty coil, and I'd check whether the MAF sensor needs to be cleaned (i cleaned one on my wife's S420 with brake cleaner, but check what the autoparts store recommends).
If those ideas do not do the trick, unless you have a scan tool that supports more in depth analysis, and a multimeter, and a lot of experience troubleshooting rover engines, at this point I'd take it to a good mechanic.
Took it to a exhaust shop and there was no leaks.
No air intake leaks.
Got new fuel in there.
I replaced the air filter. It was really old and dirty. I also cleaned out the MAFS with the MAFS cleaner. Cleared the codes and 5 Miles later and now I get
P0734 Gear 4 incorrect ratio
The other codes disappeared.
Also the plugs I have in there are Risks Leoni 2015 Silicon?
Those arent original plugs are they?
Fixing Range Rovers seems like a lot of fun!
Do you think this is a new issue? Or do I need to drive it a little more so it can learn everything?
those do not sound like the original plugs. people on this board have a variety of opinions which are the best to get, and I do not recognize whether thats a good one or not. Search for plugs you'll find some recommendations for and against specific ones.
I would clear that transmission code and run the truck a good 20 - 30 miles under the condition that you do not get a blinking check engine light. I've started to form an opinion about your vehicle - not bagging on it - and believe me, mine periodically likes to throw a code or 2. But my opinion is with the radio problems, the hvac display problems, the coil problem, and now this transmission problem... theres been some kind of mistreatment by prior owner. Good news is you are getting these worked out. Bad news is who knows whats coming next.
I'd clear that transmission code, and drive it around. See if the fuel and spark related codes you had before come back. Vary your driving: let it idle on driveway 10 mins, drive slow, come to a few complete stops, drive on the highway 10 mins, etc... this won't be every drive cycle, but it should allow car to present many if not all the codes that are recurring. Again, if you get some dramatic bad result discontinue testing and get towed. E.g. if you smell strong sulfur smell accompanied with check engine light, you are misfiring again and unburnt fuel is getting into the catalysts, which will damage them if you go on for too long.
My worry is that with the transmission code you are either looking at pulling out the BECM and working on it, or any other subordinate computers that control the transmission, or repairs to the transmission itself. :-(
Cleaned the MAFS again and 20 miles later I get P0734 and P0455. I know P0455 is usually something to do with the gas cap but it looked fine to me.....Maybe it was just a little off...
So you guys thing its officially time to change the MAFS? Or other symptoms I should try?
well i fixed the p0455 but the p0734 comes back over and over even after cleaning my MAFS several times. From what i been reading the MAFS might be culprit. ITs $300 for the MAFS What do you guys say? Also what kind of tool do I need to take the MAFS out fully. I thought it was a security star but it seems to be five-sided?
well i fixed the p0455 but the p0734 comes back over and over even after cleaning my MAFS several times. From what i been reading the MAFS might be culprit. ITs $300 for the MAFS What do you guys say? Also what kind of tool do I need to take the MAFS out fully. I thought it was a security star but it seems to be five-sided?
get a second (trained) opinion before you replace the mass air ffllow sensor to fix an OBDII (emissions focused) diagnostic code referring to the transmission. i'd sure hate to see you drop money on a new MAFS base on so little corellation. if you so need a new MAFS take it out and go to autozone, ask to compare to other Bosch MAFS in stock. It is probably a common part.
Ok replaced the MAFS and I dont get the P0734 codes anymore. I get the P0455 codes still. Every 15 miles or so. I triple checked the gas cap and the purge valve.
Ok..On second thought I think it might be the purge valve....
I took a picture of mine. Is it supposed to be dangling out and not connected to anything?
I also noticed a little bit off the rubber of the top is peeling off. The part where the black plastic piece and the grey rubber tubing meet. Can i just tape that part?
2001 Range Rover HSE Check Engine Light
What do you guys say? Also what kind of tool do I need to take the MAFS out fully. I thought it was a security star but it seems to be five-sided?
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