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Old 11-01-2009, 02:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Bought a Very Cheap 02' P38 & this is my journey fixing it...

I just picked up a 02' RR HSE with 70K on it, For a great deal..

Car had a blown HG *surprise*

I checked the car out a few days ago, all the electronics were working ect.. But it didn't have enough cranking amps to turn the car over.. I go to pick it up Yesterday and the Person I bought it from took the battery out of it when I came to pick it up, So they knocked an extra $50 off the price for me..


I just got it home and Unloaded the other night, Put in a battery out of our 00' HSE and the car started freaking out when I turned the key on.. It would try and kick the EAS on then, everything would go dead, a few seconds later everything would turn back on and relays all over the car are popping on and off like crazy even in the doors.. I checked all the fuses they are good and none of the relays are burnt... This sounded like a BCM problem

Turns out that the Battery I tired in it was too weak. A new Interstate battery fixed the electrical problems.

Problem #1 Solved

Now to Pulling the heads off to see whats going on inside the engine

Ughh... Never seen this before on a LR. I've seen dropped cylinder liners, and just about everything else go wrong but never this..

both rear cylinders are toast.. The back side of the piston near the water jacket has completely eroded, there is about a half dollar size chunk missing off the top of each piston.

I've seen this on Turbo motors, High compression race engines.. Never a LR... Just my luck lol..

I guess the head gasket was leaking for a long time, and the previous owner just kept pouring water in too keep it from "overheating" and that in time eroded the pistons...

Needs a short block...


I got a new Short block that is in great shape for $400 bucks...
I just got done Ordering new Rings, and bearings to rebuild this one..

I've looked in the Manuals and everywhere. I can't seem to find out if the Main cap bolts are One time use bolts like the head gaskets.. Since their final torque values are in Degrees, that usually indicates that the bolts are stretched to achieve the final torque..

Should I get new rod bolts, Main cap bolts and Flex plate bolts?

Also, This is my 1st Rover engine pull, I've been lucky enough to avoid it all these years..

I have the Engine down to well, Just the engine.. the heads are off all the oil lines are disconnected, all of the accessories are tucked away to the side..

Can I leave the gear box in and pull the motor out, there looks to be plenty of room if I take the motor mounts out while suspending the engine.. And slide it forward *after unfastening the converter bolts..

Or does pulling it all out work better? I'd like to be lazy as possible, and leave the Air conditioning lines charged and the radiator and trans/oil coolers in the truck..
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Old 11-04-2009, 05:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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So any Tips on how to pull this engine out? I'm probably going to start Saturday..
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