I have a problem where the compressor is not coming on in my range rover 4.6 - 2001 RR HSE - i know it works because i can jump out the relay and it comes on. I come out in the morning and the thing is practically on the ground - new front and rear springs, new compressor 8 months ago, new seals in the valve block. I did notice though that occationally the compressor comes on but then turns off. Do these things get really hot? This seems to be abnormally hot. Any Ideas?
Hi Scott,
Not sure how much help I can be here. I have a 1998 P38 and I'm going through a similar episode, I've been chasing the air leak since I bought the vehicle late last year. Whatever you do don't give up and go over to springs.
My story so far is quite similar to yours, I've recived good advice from the guys at TRS in Adelaide both with tech stuff and any parts I suspect might be at fault.
I've also overhauled the valve block and I'm working with relatively new air bags. I've also replaced the piston ring on the air compressor, it was getting a good work out so I replaced the old one, just to be on the safe side. I had a problem with my air compresor similar to yours, I found the wire loose on the thermal overlaod switch which is internal to the compressor motor, the wire is only push on and can come loose. the thermal switch resets itself after about 20 mins I found, might have had something to do with the computer as well I susoect.
Go looking with soapy water everywhere including your overhaukled or new valve block you'll be surprised. I found the right rear tube that went into the o-ring seal had a slight mark along the axis of the tube, only a very slight leak but enough.
The other thing to be awre of is that the computer system equalises / self levels every four or six hours I think, the systems picks the lowest one and sets the rest as the computer sees fit. If you can leave a door open overnight this overides the computer so when you come out in the morning the bit that has the leak shows itself. I'm just going through a process of elimination. It's challenging and demoralising, finding a leak is very satisfying, fixing the leak is manageable when you find it. That's the hard bit.
I've now made a lot of progress, I'm now woring out how to join the tube with a high quality connector that makes replacement easier in the future. The tubing is 6 mm not 1/4 inch that 0.010 thou difference makes all the difference as I found out.
Good luck with your quest I hope some of what I've told you helps.
Marty - thanks for the info - I heard that Land Rover sells a substance that can be put in the system to find leaks - have you ever heard of this? That would be a great help!
I have a problem where the compressor is not coming on in my range rover 4.6 - 2001 RR HSE - i know it works because i can jump out the relay and it comes on. I come out in the morning and the thing is practically on the ground - new front and rear springs, new compressor 8 months ago, new seals in the valve block. I did notice though that occationally the compressor comes on but then turns off. Do these things get really hot? This seems to be abnormally hot. Any Ideas?
You might want to get in touch with Storey at RSWsolutions.com, he has some good information and devices that you might want to look into.
__________________
Mike
Retired service manager, member of Solihull Society, SCLR, NCLR and the Santa Barbara 4Wheelers clubs.
99 D2, 3" lift, CDL with Detroit,T.T. lockers, 4:11's,H.D. axles, custom ft/rear bumpers with sliders, a 9500 HSI Warn winch and 5 HID's.
Hi Scott,
I've heard of things that you can inject into the system to find leaks, at this time I've stayed away from anything that contaminates the air in the system, next think you know you'll contaminate the dessicant and render that useless or the valve block or something else, I've stayed away from anything "intrusive" for fear of doing more damage. I've had success with the soapy water, for me cheap and things also get a clean at the same time, win win.
There are only so many places that the air can leak from once you eliminate the air bags and the valve block. I bought the four emergency valves that you can install when the valve block goes into fault mode and can't be reset. When I did this test the vehicle stayed level so the problem had to do with either the supply or the valve block. then leaving the door open found the RR air "system" was the problem, then I found the small nick in the tube going into the valve block o-rings. Just a case of elimination.
As Mike points out thee is devices out there for reseting things, I personally went for the Blackbox solutions option out of Cyprus, awsome tool, comes at a price of course. Colin Gabriela and the crew out there has been a great help. Mobile as well, personal choice as usual.
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EAS Compressor not coming on!
Linear Mode
