My Driver Door Won't Open-Please Help - Land Rovers Only

fdbandit · 05-23-2005, 05:40 AM

Got a real problem. My 2000 RR was working fine the other day so I stopped to get gas and decided to go through the car wash. Got back in the car after gassing up and went thru the wash and noticed the passenger floor got wet and also the kick panel facia while getting washed(no not the O rings-alrerady done that). When I got home the driver door wouldn't open even though the door handle, the inside lever and the door locks work. Days later the door still won't open and I've tried about everything I could to slide something to the inside catch to release the latch.
Can it be that something shorted out and superlocked my door? Everything else on the car works fine and there are no warnings on the dash.
Can ANYONE help, please.

1st rover · 05-23-2005, 07:03 AM

its going to be difficult to do this but try
remove the pannel on the inside and open the lock with a scrue driver.
but getting to the pannel acess scrue is going to be difficult as some of them are hidden along the side.

yieldsign2 · 05-23-2005, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fdbandit

When I got home the driver door wouldn't open even though the door handle, the inside lever and the door locks work.

Is this saying that the door does open with the inside handle?

fdbandit · 05-23-2005, 11:48 AM

Hi.
No the door won't open AT ALL!!!
I can't get the door panel off because it is closed. Would disconnecting battery help?
Chic

OkieRover · 05-23-2005, 02:47 PM

Okay don't panic!
I know what to do.

Okay first remove your seatbelt.
Then carefully slide over to the passenger side.
Then open the passenger side door to freedom!!!!

Sorry, I had too. It reminded me of a joke my daughter sent me for "BLONDE STAR". The one where the blonde locks herself in the car and BlondeStar rescues her by remotely unlocking the doors for her.

I hope you figure out the real problem.

son of lucas · 05-23-2005, 05:19 PM

fdbandit,..this probably won't help, but, try this....
remove the trim piece from around the inner door handle release(pull handle out..remove one phillips screw)
once the trim is removed, you'll be able to see a small portion of the inner release cable
ensure that this cable is not kinked,,specifically where it leaves the door handle
its not uncommon for this to happen on the p38 rr.
this happens when the inner cable becomes kinked..this causes the latch pawl to become slightly pre-loaded....and even though the lock knob is in the unlock position...the pre-load prevents it from actually unlocking inside the latch
not sure if this will help...but good luck anyways...it's a pia to climb over the center console to get in and out

fdbandit · 05-23-2005, 09:29 PM

alas...no kink.

OkieRover · 05-24-2005, 11:04 AM

Until you get it fixed you could do like these guys....

I always thought that was silly to jump in and out of the window instead of opening the doors. Someone told me they had the doors welded shut ala stock car racing.

fdbandit · 05-25-2005, 04:56 AM

Thanks guys, that will only work if I remember to lower the air suspension.
Seriously, do any of you think it may be a superlock problem? Everything works with the exception that the latch won't release.

scuffdog · 05-26-2005, 10:25 AM

Have you tried holding one of the latches open and either pushing or pulling on the door (dependant on location)...it may just be stuck closed.

Other than that, you may have to take the seat out to gain better access to the door panel, if you plan on removing it.

scuffdog · 05-26-2005, 10:28 AM

Can you hear the actuator operating within the door?

fdbandit · 05-26-2005, 09:46 PM

Thanks for the replys. Yes I can hear the actuater working.

scuffdog · 05-27-2005, 01:00 PM

Perhaps the problem is realated something specific within the latching mechanism then. Not sure if you have a workshop manual or not.
http://img235.echo.cx/my.php?image=latch16ym.jpg
http://img235.echo.cx/img235/900/cent17bt.jpg
http://img163.echo.cx/img163/9836/cent26qv.jpg
http://img163.echo.cx/img163/2049/cent30dm.jpg
http://img163.echo.cx/img163/281/cent44pa.jpg
http://img163.echo.cx/img163/7198/cent55iv.jpg

BTW....is it OK to post up workshop snippets...i'm not meaning to drum up trouble or piss anyone off.

fdbandit · 05-28-2005, 06:46 AM

Thank You. I will keep you posted.

TAZ · 05-29-2005, 12:01 AM

I really do not know what may be the cause for the door locking mechanism but I think the water leak into passenger footwell has only two possibilities; since O Rings are not the issue then it could only be a bad sealed pollen filter. I think you should check them or one morning after a rainy night you would be surprised to see how much water can get in...

05-23-2005, 05:40 AM	#1 (permalink)
fdbandit Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 21 Gallery: 0	My Driver Door Won't Open-Please Help Got a real problem. My 2000 RR was working fine the other day so I stopped to get gas and decided to go through the car wash. Got back in the car after gassing up and went thru the wash and noticed the passenger floor got wet and also the kick panel facia while getting washed(no not the O rings-alrerady done that). When I got home the driver door wouldn't open even though the door handle, the inside lever and the door locks work. Days later the door still won't open and I've tried about everything I could to slide something to the inside catch to release the latch. Can it be that something shorted out and superlocked my door? Everything else on the car works fine and there are no warnings on the dash. Can ANYONE help, please.

05-23-2005, 07:03 AM	#2 (permalink)
1st rover rovering?? Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: San Jose, Ca. Posts: 689 Gallery: 0	its going to be difficult to do this but try remove the pannel on the inside and open the lock with a scrue driver. but getting to the pannel acess scrue is going to be difficult as some of them are hidden along the side. __________________ -Nikunj 1993 Range Rover Classic LWB 1995 VW JETTA

05-29-2005, 12:01 AM	#15 (permalink)
TAZ Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 29 Gallery: 0	Water Leak I really do not know what may be the cause for the door locking mechanism but I think the water leak into passenger footwell has only two possibilities; since O Rings are not the issue then it could only be a bad sealed pollen filter. I think you should check them or one morning after a rainy night you would be surprised to see how much water can get in...

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05-23-2005, 11:48 AM	#4 (permalink)
fdbandit Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 21 Gallery: 0	Hi. No the door won't open AT ALL!!! I can't get the door panel off because it is closed. Would disconnecting battery help? Chic

05-23-2005, 05:19 PM	#6 (permalink)
son of lucas Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 37 Gallery: 0	fdbandit,..this probably won't help, but, try this.... remove the trim piece from around the inner door handle release(pull handle out..remove one phillips screw) once the trim is removed, you'll be able to see a small portion of the inner release cable ensure that this cable is not kinked,,specifically where it leaves the door handle its not uncommon for this to happen on the p38 rr. this happens when the inner cable becomes kinked..this causes the latch pawl to become slightly pre-loaded....and even though the lock knob is in the unlock position...the pre-load prevents it from actually unlocking inside the latch not sure if this will help...but good luck anyways...it's a pia to climb over the center console to get in and out

05-23-2005, 09:29 PM	#7 (permalink)
fdbandit Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 21 Gallery: 0	alas...no kink.

05-25-2005, 04:56 AM	#9 (permalink)
fdbandit Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 21 Gallery: 0	Thanks guys, that will only work if I remember to lower the air suspension. Seriously, do any of you think it may be a superlock problem? Everything works with the exception that the latch won't release.

05-26-2005, 10:25 AM	#10 (permalink)
scuffdog Idiot Savant Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 60 Gallery: 0	Have you tried holding one of the latches open and either pushing or pulling on the door (dependant on location)...it may just be stuck closed. Other than that, you may have to take the seat out to gain better access to the door panel, if you plan on removing it.

05-26-2005, 10:28 AM	#11 (permalink)
scuffdog Idiot Savant Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 60 Gallery: 0	Can you hear the actuator operating within the door?

05-26-2005, 09:46 PM	#12 (permalink)
fdbandit Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 21 Gallery: 0	Thanks for the replys. Yes I can hear the actuater working.

05-27-2005, 01:00 PM	#13 (permalink)
scuffdog Idiot Savant Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 60 Gallery: 0	Perhaps the problem is realated something specific within the latching mechanism then. Not sure if you have a workshop manual or not. http://img235.echo.cx/my.php?image=latch16ym.jpg http://img235.echo.cx/img235/900/cent17bt.jpg http://img163.echo.cx/img163/9836/cent26qv.jpg http://img163.echo.cx/img163/2049/cent30dm.jpg http://img163.echo.cx/img163/281/cent44pa.jpg http://img163.echo.cx/img163/7198/cent55iv.jpg BTW....is it OK to post up workshop snippets...i'm not meaning to drum up trouble or piss anyone off.

05-28-2005, 06:46 AM	#14 (permalink)
fdbandit Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 21 Gallery: 0	Thank You. I will keep you posted.

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