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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5
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Hello,
I would need an advice about an oil leak I have on my Range Rover P38 4.0 SE (year 1997). 2 months ago, I had to change the intake gaskets and the head gaskets because of coolant leak, in a independent Land rover repair shop. Since then I have to add a quart of motor oil every 200 miles. (I didn't have any oil leak before) The thing is, that I have no visible oil leak, nothing on the floor, and no black smoke. I went to Land Rover Cincinnati for them to check the oil leak but they told me that they don't know why I'm losing so much oil, because they couldn't see any visible leak. I've been told if there was a piston problem, I should have black smoke when driving my car, but I don't have that. Thanks a lot for your help. Pat3d |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Rebuilding Rover
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: NH
Posts: 2,002
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have you checked your coolant reseivoir to make sure the oils not turning up in the cooling system?
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"Only two defining forces ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom." http://snhlr.org/ 91 Range Rover Classic 90 RRC Parts truck 94 Saab gas mileage beater
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#3 (permalink) | |
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2004 Discovery II driver
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Quote:
make sure your coolant and oil are the proper colors and viscosity. you don't want them mixing...if they are you've got a few internal problems. good luck
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![]() 2004 Discovery II SE7 - My Ride 2006 LR3 SE - Dad's Ride |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5
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Hello guys,
My coolant color is ok (green). I can see oil on my dipstick, because I'm adding oil from time to time. The oil has a dark brown color and a good viscosity. I've been told that it could be the rear main seal. What do you think ? Thanks a lot for your help Pat3d |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Rebuilding Rover
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: NH
Posts: 2,002
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a rear main seal leak of the magnitude your telling us about should leave oil all over the undercarriage and in most cases up the back of your truck. Should be fairly easy to spot.
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"Only two defining forces ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom." http://snhlr.org/ 91 Range Rover Classic 90 RRC Parts truck 94 Saab gas mileage beater
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#7 (permalink) |
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Rebuilding Rover
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: NH
Posts: 2,002
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that quite possibly will be the winner. Check your crankcase vent to make sure it isn't clogged or blocked if it is it can cause the engine to push oil out the rear main seal. I had this problem once.
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"Only two defining forces ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom." http://snhlr.org/ 91 Range Rover Classic 90 RRC Parts truck 94 Saab gas mileage beater
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#9 (permalink) |
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Rebuilding Rover
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: NH
Posts: 2,002
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I want to say it's on the passenger side valve cover I'll go out and look to be sure...
Yes it's very easy to check out yourself. Edit: Front right to be exact if your p38 is the same as my rrc and the engines didn't change a whole lot over the years so you should be good to go.
__________________
"Only two defining forces ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom." http://snhlr.org/ 91 Range Rover Classic 90 RRC Parts truck 94 Saab gas mileage beater
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mouans Sartoux, France
Posts: 184
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Quote:
However, there is a method used by oil timers. NAPA normally stocks or can get a small bottle of a product that is added to your oil (there are other variations for the air-conditioning or coolant systems). Buy a florescent bulb (aka a black light). Spray your engine and compartments with a engine cleaner and rinse off well. Start your engine in the dark and examine it with the black light. The oil leak will shine as a trail of bright light blue. The product has no other effect on the liquid or oil it is added to..so a change is unnecessary afterwards. James |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 8
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Hi, I have been experiencing the exact same problem only my RR is the 2.5 BMW TDI. I have eventually found the problem which was back pressure from the piston rings into the crankcase and subsequently pushing oil through the breather on the rocker cover into the intake manifold. I dont know if both engines work the same but it is something to start on.
Regards Marcos |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5
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Hello,
I called the mechanic who changed my intake and head gaskets 2 days ago, and he told me that I had a remaining leak form the rear main seal to take care of. I'm gonna go for that and make it repair. I hope it will fix this problem. He told me also that he has cleaned the crankcase breather filter, and he didn't notice any problem with the valves stem seals either. Thanks, Pat3d |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 5,506
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Because of the cost of that repair and the fact that you don't seem to be dripping much, I would want them to clean the under side of the engine area and let it run while on the rack to verify the exact are of the leak.
Mike |
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