Service Engine Soon Light??

[dittmarp]

Hello all,
I have a 2003 Range Rover 4.6 and at 51,000 miles the service engine light came on. I did not screw gas cap on all the way so service rep told me might be the case. Then I took in and she thinks its the vacuum ??? might be rotting and it will cost $400. I don't know if I believe- I've read sites where you can reset the light?? What is the deal with this? Am I going to pay $400 to get ripped and they just reset.....I don't belive them and I have a good warranty and it's supposedly not covered!!!
FRUSTRATED!!!!!!

[Thor]

Look at John Braybn's site RangeRovers.net

Tons of info on all this type of stuff.

He's a P38 Range Rover guy (truck like yours) and the site is good.

Where are you located? Perhaps a good indie mechanic could give you some advise.

My mechanic off-roads a P38 pretty hard and loves to work on them more than the old Classics and RR1's

[XtremeMarine]

Thor; The OP says it is a 2003 model. That would be a MkIII, not a P38.

Definitely bring the truck into an indie shop, for a second opinion. The bill for one hour of diagnosis time could save you a big chunk. And also help you to trust, or not trust your dealer, since you have warranty still.

[dittmarp]

XTREMEMARINE -Thx for the reply. Any recommnedations on a Indie shop?? I live in Las Vegas. The service girl said my vacuum somethng?? or other has some wear and tear and needs to be replaced that's why the light could be on and that's not under warranty...weird! I just don't know to trust its the vacuum thing! Is that easy to see if they need to be replaced or is something they could just be saying not thinking I 'm doing any research???
Thx again 4 ur input!!!!

[dittmarp]

THOR -Thx 4 tip. I will check it out. You never know with dealers if you can trust them. I live in Las Vegas.....do you know anyone good in this area??? I'm mad I have warranty and this is magically not covered!!!!!
Thx again!

[Thor]

Originally Posted by XtremeMarine

Thor; The OP says it is a 2003 model. That would be a MkIII, not a P38.

Hahahahah! Ooops!

For some reason I thought the current body style (RR3) started in 2004, and the 4.6 statement sealed my fate in that assumption! Wouldn't that be a 4.4 BMW engine then?

The long and the short of it, I've never looked into a RR3 to be of much use here, I'm only starting to warm to the RR2 since my mechanic is so geeked about them.

My plan is that if we run out of RR1 and Classics completely I'll move to a RR2, but it better have 35's on it. But that's my own problem entirely! hahaha!

Sorry to be of little real help here.

Except for the RRnet thing!

[Rineheitzgabot]

A couple of years ago, I didn't screw my gas cap on all the way, and it did the same thing you describe; I screwed it back on and the check engine light remained on.

Try disconnecting the battery after making certain that the gas cap is screwed on tight. I can't quite remember if this is what fixed it or not, but I remember the thing eventually turned off.

Hope this helps.

[Thor]

Originally Posted by Rineheitzgabot

A couple of years ago, I didn't screw my gas cap on all the way, and it did the same thing you describe; I screwed it back on and the check engine light remained on.

Try disconnecting the battery after making certain that the gas cap is screwed on tight. I can't quite remember if this is what fixed it or not, but I remember the thing eventually turned off.

Hope this helps.

Could be the answer....

Great screen name!

Nice reference to the German (beer) purity law of 1516. hahaha

Unfortunately I learned Reinheitsgebot is no longer on the books.

[hermanpj]

dittmarp - go to autozone and buy a $30 ODBII Code reader that can clear codes. search on internet for ODBII Codes and you will find sites that list the codes and provide plain english translations for them. if you have a common problem with vaccuum/relating to fuel system, it will most likely be a generic code you can reset using one of these ODBII code readers. Make sure it says on box it can reset codes. plug that bad boy in, read codes, get the tranlsations so you know what they mean, and then reset them. drive around and if they come back, ok... now it may be worth going to a mechanic to check out. an ODBII code reader pays for itself in one usage.