I have a 2000 Discovery that has 169000 Miles that the M&S and D lights on the dash are flashing and then the check engine light will come on and the Disco will turn off. after letting it sit for a little bit it will restart but will do the same thing again. I have already replaced the battery the alt. Any ideas on what to do next?
this happened to me as well. it was a very VERY cold night after work and i figured it was just a servo stuck in the tranny. However, i turned off my engine and restarted it and it ran fine. i would check all of my electrical connections to your transmission, (never know if one's loose). perhaps run a scan on it?
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Him- "cut your losses" me- "i'll never sell it"
Get your codes read and have the battery/alternator tested again at a local parts store. What you're describing is a classic sign of a failing/dead battery in a D2, but post the codes back here and we'll see what else is going on.
1999 LR DII - 108k miles, Locking CDL from a D1, SD Rack, 3rd Row added, 235 85r16 BFG AT KO's, TerraFirma 3" lift w/ TF +2 shocks, QT front diff guard, Southdowne rear diff guard, SS brake lines...more to come, so it's probably doomed to always be a work in progress...
i had the same problem so i changed the battery and still had the blinking lights. had my alternator tested and it was fine, still blinking lights and failing to start, not stalling but when the lights started flashing it would almost stall. after replacing the crankshaft position sensor everything is fine. get your codes read, this will help you zero in on the problem. found this in another thread Land Rover Discovery II: Proprietary OBDII Codes > Northwest Overland Society > Most Recent
A failing CkPS will not throw a code or these lights (usually). This is a voltage issue so, as mentioned, check the batt, alt and grounds...I have had this happen even after just replacing the battery, turned out to be the 150 amp fuse at the end of the fuse box.
A failing CkPS will not throw a code or these lights (usually). This is a voltage issue so, as mentioned, check the batt, alt and grounds...I have had this happen even after just replacing the battery, turned out to be the 150 amp fuse at the end of the fuse box.
Ditto....I had the same thing just once or twice in two days even though all seemed just fine. A week later the battery would not start the truck. New battery and it's been fine for the past two years... Having a new batt I'd check the terminals and grounds to make sure you have a good connection. Just because you have enough juice to start and run the truck does not mean you have enough to keep the truck happy.
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1996 Disco XD 1996 Trek #4 and Camel Trophy Team USA Selections 1997
2003 Disco SE7
1998 Disco LSE 7 50th Anniversary Baluga Black
1987 Defender 110 300tdi/R380
1969 Series 2A 109
Pacific Coast Rover Club
Redmond, Washington
A failing CkPS will not throw a code or these lights (usually). This is a voltage issue so, as mentioned, check the batt, alt and grounds...I have had this happen even after just replacing the battery, turned out to be the 150 amp fuse at the end of the fuse box.
I'll keep the fuse in mind if this ever happens again. My problem DID start with a dead battery though and I replaced the battery and then had my alternator tested as well as cleaning up all my contacts and making sure all connections were secure. Still had the blinking lights. I did get P0335 CkPS malfunction code. I was almost panicking thinking I was having major transmission issues at first. Maintenance 101, start with the most likely culprit and eliminate problems one at a time.
A similar problem happened to me on '04 Discovery. M and S lights flashing when key on but engine would not crank. Just click like a dead battery. Replaced battery, full charged, and plenty of amps to start, same thing just click. Long story short, no pun intended. There was a corroded connection at starter, where battery power connects to starter motor. I found the connection, but very tough to get to, as its tucked behind heat shield on passenger side down low by exhaust header if I remember correctly. Just follow positive lead from battery and check connections at starter. Might be the culprit.
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[/SIGPIC]2004 D2 79K, Mikes High Mileage service done at 75K. SS brake extended lines, OME Lift 751F and 781 R. NitroCharger Sports with Damper, TW HD Driveshaft, Rock Sliders, Terrafirma Diff Guards F and R, LP8500 Superwinch, Dick Cepek Mud Country 265 75 R16 Tires. Hella 700FF lights, ARB Bumper.
Just because you replaced your battery and alternator, doesn't mean you are getting the correct voltage. Go to the local parts store and have them run a free charging system test. Your voltage should be between 13.6 and 14.4 volts.
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Mike
Retired service manager, member of Solihull Society, SCLR, NCLR and the Santa Barbara 4Wheelers clubs.
99 D2, 3" lift, CDL with Detroit,T.T. lockers, 4:11's,H.D. axles, custom ft/rear bumpers with sliders, a 9500 HSI Warn winch and 5 HID's.
Ditto....I had the same thing just once or twice in two days even though all seemed just fine. A week later the battery would not start the truck. New battery and it's been fine for the past two years... Having a new batt I'd check the terminals and grounds to make sure you have a good connection. Just because you have enough juice to start and run the truck does not mean you have enough to keep the truck happy.
And it used to be you could put any old battery in a car and it would be fine. I had three batterys replaced one time before we got to the "right" one and the system was working properly. I think the fuse blew as the shop (two years ago) tried to jump the rover to get it going. A used alternator and the proper battery got everything functioning properly. In this case they all needed attention and have been fine ever since. Checking the connection at the starter is a good bit of info as well.
Either way,,, it is a voltage related problem and you have start simple and work into the expensive and complicated.
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