3 Amigos Troubleshooting - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy 3 Amigos Troubleshooting

Evening Gents.

First time poster here gonna give a quick TL;DR before diving in.

1. Just got the 3 amigos today Bummer 😬
2. Been dealing with other Issues lately, so far have replaced Battery & CPS Sensor.
3. Car recently got shipped from Denver to Seattle and has since developed an odd shake at around 30-35 mph that has also eluded correct diagnosis (2 visits to the shop) Alignment and Balancing helped tremendously but the shake is still around.

2003 Disco II at about 105k. Had it for a while and love the truck don't want to give it up but its been driving me nuts. Still trying to pin down this shaking problem to no avail. Read the forums and am hearing getting the codes is the right thing to do first.

Questions are anyone know where I can get the tool to read the ABS codes? Also depending on how expensive anyone in the WA area willing to rent one out if you already posses? Want to go about this the right way and diagnose/fix the issue correctly and not chase my tail. Any help is appreciated. Thx gents.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 08:05 AM
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You can get an ABS code reader at any auto parts place or get them to read them for you. but first: your vibration is likely from your front drive shaft. If you haven't replaced it, DO SO NOW! The factory shafts don't have provision for greasing and they sit too close to the catalytic converter so the grease bakes out. When it fails (not if), it will take your transmission with it. Replace it now with one with multiple grease fittings (Lucky8 is the best deal, I think). Worry about 3 Amigos AFTER you fix this.

2004 Disco II, bone stock, daily driver (gasp!)
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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Sounds good, after some more research about that specific problem is it usually better to replace the entire shaft assembly or should a rebuild workout fine with serviceable u-joint? Also should I do the rear shaft as well?
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 08:32 AM
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You can rebuild the original but it's not easy finding the right parts and kind of a pain. For about $200 you can get a brand new unit, fully greaseable and ready to go. A simple bolt in. The rear shaft isn't the problem the front shaft is, though it might pay to inspect the coupler between the tranny and shaft. It wears out and is also very easy and cheap to replace. It's that front one that worries me. It's a bad design (one of many on this model) and it should be addressed before you drive it again. Catastrophic failure awaits! Sorry, not trying to be overly dramatic, but it will leave you stranded at the very best and, more likely, without a transmission.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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I've seen the pics of wrecked tranny from the failed shaft so don't want to avoid for sure, don't want to put the wife and kids at risk. Looking at new shafts now to get ordered up. Any other recommendations I found one at British Utah for about $379 which is a bit more but worth it if I ensure the truck keeps running for a while
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 12:15 PM
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https://www.lucky8llc.com/collection...ont-driveshaft
$208 if you want to save a little money. Change all fluids, check brakes, serpentine belt, replace cooling system hoses, make sure the aux fan works. These aluminum engines hate getting hot and will kill themselves if you're not mindful. Get a good aftermarket temp gauge (I really recommend Scangauge) because the factory temp gauge reads Cold/Who Knows/Too Late. Seriously, it's useless and dangerous to rely on it.

Those are the biggies. I've done all this and much more in the six months I've owned mine. Let us know how it goes!

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 09:05 AM
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Use Lucky8. Good guys and product.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so the new shaft came in today went ahead and got the one from British Utah. One problem came up during install, I got the old one off no biggie but when installing the new one the rear connection isn't lining up correctly and I need a little bit of play to get it the rest of the way. Do I need to put it in neutral to do that? It's literally about an inch from fitting.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 12:10 PM
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You have to lift the truck by the axle so the wheels can spin and it needs to be in neutral so you can spin them. Make damn sure the rear wheels are chocked in both directions and use the e-break. Use jack stands under the front axle. Put the transfer case in neutral.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 09:55 AM
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So, El Ocho, did you get the shaft installed this weekend? Curious to see how it went and whether it fixed your vibration.

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 04:05 AM
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The bolt pattern is a rectangle, not a square. Rotate the shaft 90 degrees.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2017, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry for the late reply here. I was able to successfully get the shaft on, for anyone else who runs into this all I had to do was put it in neutral and the rear bolt assembly rotates without issue. The rest of the install went great and the whole process was fairly painless. Appreciate the help gents.

Now for the sad news, the shake is still there! So I can tell a difference in how the truck is driving now but I'm back to the drawing board. One thing I failed to mention before was that the shake is front to back not side to side. Not sure if that matters much. Starting to wonder if maybe my fuel filter is dying? Not really sure what else to think.

Anyone else seen this type of behavior even after a front driveshaft replacement?
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-24-2017, 04:57 AM
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The front driveshaft can be pretty worn and not make noise. The rest of the problems usually involve some noise. It could be wheel bearings or CV's. You originally inquired about an ABS reader. When the front hubs go, they shed metal particles that are attracted to the magnet in the ABS sensor integral to the hub. This sets a code as it interferes with the signal pulses. Sure sign of bad bearings. Replace both and use quality parts or your ABS will continue to have problems.

While it's apart, the CV's are right there. They're likely as old as the hub bearings and all the work is done.

I presume you have had the tires balanced as the first step.

If you feel like you wasted money on a driveshaft you didn't need... don't. I just went through this on my son's. The service records that came with the truck showed a new shaft less than 10K prior to me getting it. I was having trouble getting grease to flow through the joint on the front and replaced it but left the Cardan alone. 2k/mi later it was vibrating and loose.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks I'll add that to my list to do. Wasn't gonna sweat the drive shaft better to have something good that is serviceable. Think I found a video on YouTube showing the bearing replacement. Will update the post again once I get done. Hopefully it will help others who have to chase their tail with this symptom
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-27-2017, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so I have been looking at parts anyone used the aftermarket hubs from BPU? Pretty big price difference between theirs and the OEM part. I think Ill pull the trigger on these soon and swap them out to see if thats my problem. ����
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