60k mi service question..

[NewYawker]

For the common vehicular moron is this a tough job to do? I mean is it hard to really screw this up? Are there any step by step write ups with pictures on this topic? If I am asking a stupid question feel free to let the abuse rip

[brooksa]

When I did my 60K I used this list from DiscoMike, seems to cover all the bases and not too difficult to handle DIY.

This is the parts list for a 60,000 mile service or a high mileage used truck, the way I do it.
1 Oil filter, K&N 3001
1 Air filter
6 Qts of engine oil
12 Qts of ATF
7 Qts of 80/90W gear oil
2 Qts of Brake fluid
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive
1 Bottle of Lucas Transmission additive
1 Can of Spray Carb. Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platium Plus 4's
1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires
1 Serpentine belt if not yet replaced
2 Bottles of SeaFoam


60,000 Mile Service or Major Service for High Mileage Used Vehicle just purchased
Bleed the brakes
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive
Flush the coolant system
Do an engine flush before changing the oil
Do an induction cleaning
Clean the throttle body
Add fuel additive to full gas tank
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change the t/case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc

[Disco Mike]

If you can follow directions, you can do the above listed service in 5 hours, out on your drive way except for the plug wire installation.
Takes no special tools, other the a socket set and a couple of wrenches along with an oil catch pan and will save you around $400 to $500 in labor.
Mike

[unstable]

As stated, it's all pretty straight-forward...but if you're like me (god help you)...you may end up going out of your way to screw something up!

I'd start with the flush and oil change. You can either drain out the oil and refill it with ATF and let it idle for 20 minutes to flush the motor OR use some off the shelf engine flush for the next three oil changes.
I took the off-the-shelf approach myself. Pop out the drain-plug, drain the oil, replace the filter, refill with fresh oil and you're done with one thing.

Changing the differential fluid is another easy task. The Rover engineers were nice enough to provide drain plugs that really facilitate getting the old fluid out. 2 plugs and the differentials are empty. Pop the plugs back in and refill with fresh gear oil. I had a little bit of a time with this because I didn't have an angled nipple on the end of my gear-oil bottles, so I could only tilt the bottle up so high before no more fluid would flow. I had to keep transferring more fluid into the bottle. When I went to do the tranny fluid I bought a pump...yes I know Mike says a pump isn't needed but it worked out well for me. I'd really consider using it for the gear oil as well because the pump was pretty stout.

Transmission...again a drain plug is provided. If you opt to replace the filter, it's 6 bolts holding the pan on and 3 torx bolts holding the filter and pick-up tube to the valve body. The only pain in the neck part about this is the tranny doesn't have a dipstick tube that you can use to refill the tranny fluid. The fill hole is actually in the front face of the pan. Mike has said that you can use tubing to refill but I just used the pump.

The front driveshafts on these rigs are some sort of a thing to fear. Most of them do not have zerk fittings and there have been some stories about the driveshaft failing and destroying everything in its path. The recommended course of action is to have the driveshaft rebuilt. Many guys have done it themselves and said that it isn't difficult to do. I don't have a press or even a bench-mounted vice so I opted to have a full-time-mechanic friend do it. Once he learned that it had a cardon joint he didn't want to touch it and had me take it to an axle shop. This ended up costing me $250. Some guys have reported that the parts are less than $100 for the job. The parts list that I came up with was considerably more. U-joints were approximately $40 each from a Rover speciality shop (x3 = $120) and the stuff needed for the cardon came to around $45 with shipping. $165. Also, this is NOT something you want to screw up.

The plug wires are a pain in the butt. Someone posted a walk-through on another rover site about bending a screwdriver to facilitate the removal and installation of the wires. Unfortunately I didn't see this before I attempted the install. It's actually not too bad if you have access to someone with small wrists (i.e. wife, girlfriend, teenage son etc.) In hindsight, the way I would approach the job now would be to remove each wire from the spark-plugs individually and label them with the cylinder # using a sharpie marker. After this is done, remove the wires from the coil pack and reinstall the new wires on the coil pack doing the bottom row first. The wires on the top row interfere with access to the bottom row.

Most Discoveries I have seen on the road have some type of allow rims. You can probably do a preliminary inspection of the brake pads without even removing the wheels. If you just want to be safe, buy some pads and replace all of them. If you've done a disc-brake job before it shouldn't take you more than about an hour to do all 4-wheels. On Mike's advice I put disc-brake quiet on the backs of the pads despite them having the built-in rubber shims just to keep everything nice and quiet.

hope this helps to some degree.

[NewYawker]

wow thanks for the replies.... If people don't mind walking me thru some trouble areas if I run into them, I will gladly take the photos of work done and do a write up so other newbies in the future can just access that. I know I mentioned this for another LR forum but why can't every forum have something like that? I appreciate all the help given and will need alot more in the near future :p