The 3 warning lights mentioned above have all come on and I cannot seem to get them to turn off, even thought the components seem to be working.
The D2 Workshop Manual refers to Fuse #27 for each of the functions, and indicates that if they fall below 1.8V the warning lights will come on. The owner's manual says that this is a 10A fuse, and the repair manual says that it is a 15A fuse. I have replaced it with each of them, and it still doesn't seem to fix the problem.
Does anyone have an idea of what else could be causing this problem?
Many things can cause the fault's there is a myriad of information on this. But you need to get the codes read. You can buy a ABS amigo, made by rsw solutions for around $150 . Or go to the dealership.
By the way, the 'dealer' option will cost you more than the scanner.
Many times the Three Amigos (what you have) are caused by dirt on the brake sensors; try a good thorough undercarriage wash and see if they go out...if not, I'd serously think about a code reader with a reset function.
my 3-amigos lights came on a couple days ago as well. i have the ABS, TC, and Hill Decent control, plus the red "BRAKE" light, is that normal with the 3-amigos?
im going to have the lights/codes checked this week/weekend sometime hopefully to see exactly what it is.
quick question....theres the option B fix, whats the point in that? wouldnt fixing the actual problem be better? as in new rubber boots or new shuttle valves/switches? or is there another reason for the option-B bypass?
because whats the point in the bypass if you still have to fix the damaged boots or damaged shuttle valve? wouldnt fixing the damaged parts be enough?
The code 114 ABS system fault, Shuttle Valve Electric Failure, can be caused by two problems; failure of one or both of the switches themselves, or failure of the circuit board referenced in Josh's Option A writeup.
Josh's Option B fix bypasses the circuit board and restores and preserves full operation of the ABS/TC/HDC system. It does not correct any problem with the switches themselves.
Josh shows using an ohm meter to test the switches. If the switch assembly is removed and the switches pass the ohm meter tests, and there is no visible evidence of any other problem with them or the rubber boot seals, then a failure of the circuit board is indicated and the Option B bypass is all that should be needed to remedy the problem.
Some people advise going ahead and replacing the seals or the entire switch with the replacements from Falconworks while the unit is disassembled rather than risk needing to open it up again at a later time due to failure of the seals. Although removing the switches is tedious I chose to complete only the Option B bypass. If the switches fail at some later date it will cost me only an hour or two of added labor at that time and in the meantime I have saved $150.
If the switches do not pass the ohm meter test, or if there is any visible evidence of trouble with them they should then be replaced. That alone, however, does not guarantee that the three amigos won't still be present or won't still return. It is possible to replace the switches and still get the three amigos with the 114 fault if the circuit board is also faulty. That's why, for a couple dollars for the two-wire trailer plug, it is worth it to go ahead and do the Option B bypass if you have the unit taken apart to replace the switches.
thank you! i need to get the codes checked this week and go from there. but thats for the explanation!
so if the switches ARE faulty and do NOT pass the OHM test, doing the option B bypass still wont remedy it. it will be the failure of that circuit board, which THEN option B would have fixed it, as long as the switches are ok
You all are experiencing one of the most annoying faults in the D2; the three amigos. These three lights are famous for coming on and if you go to the dealer it is usually a huge bill to fix. However, there is a BUNCH of information regarding the three amigos on this forum as well as many others.
Since it is so common, there are many threads even on this forum that can help. At the beginning of this forum, when you choose the Discovery 2 forum option, you will see a 'sticky' second from the top called "ABS MODULATOR FIX, (no more SVS fault)" or something like that. Read it. Alternatively, Google the 3 Amigos. You will find a plethora of information available. I had them show up on my car, I simply plugged in the Hawkeye and cleared the codes, it has not come back since. I find that the Americans tend to worry a lot more about this problem than we do here, it is usually relatively easy and cheap to address by a DIY guy.
Don't tend to worry too much about the Three Amigos over here either.
The first thing you need to do is have the fault codes read to establish the nature of the fault.
If the fault code says SVS Electrical Failure (electrical supervision) then you need to carry out the SVS mod option B as in the sticky at the top of this forum.
I did mine at the weekend having had the lights appear on a daily basis. I opted to replace the SVS and modify it at the same time.
It took me just over an hour. The biggest problem being very large hands in a small space but can honestly say it would be well in the ability of any competent DIY'r
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