When reseaching this upgrade for the Disco I came up pretty short. There didn't seem to be any info for someone as (in)experienced as I am in the brake department. So I went ahead and did it by the seat of my pants and I figured I'd share my experience with you all. Heres how it went:
[note: complete documentation in photograph form is on the computer at home, I will try and post them up later today]
Tools required:
-BFH
-1/2" Breaker Bar (or muscle to move shorter ratchet)
-19mm 12 Point Socket
-13mm Socket
-12mm Socket
-Pry Bar
-Impact Driver (Phillips)
-C Clamp or Large Slip-Joint Pliers (13"-16" worked well)
-Lug Wrench
-Wheel Chocks
-Bottle Jack
-Fragile Rocks to put Bottle Jack on
-Beer
FRONT WHEELS:
1. Carefully balance jack on fragile sand stone rocks and lift a wheel of the ground. Suddenly remember you forgot to put wheel chocks on the opposite wheel and quickly go do that.
2. Remove wheel using lug wrench and an appropriate amount of swearing.
3. With impact driver and BFH remove the phillips screw located off center on the rotor. Mine came out very easily; I admit I was surprised.
4. Using 12mm socket and ratchet remove bolts holding caliper to caliper bracket.
5. Pull off caliper and remove old pitiful pads.
6. Using 19mm socket and breaker bar, loosen and remove the 12 point bolts holding caliper bracket on.
7. With pry bar positioned carefully behind caliper opposite of where caliper used to be, beat the living hell out of the rotor with the BFH until it comes off. Yelling helps.
8. Put new, awesome, shiny rotor on being careful to match up the phillips holes. This is where you note that the damned thing doesn't slide onto the wheel studs all the way. I found putting the wheel back on and tightening the lug nuts down was an effective way of pressing the rotor all the way on. There may be a better way of accomplishing this feat, but I wasn't feeling very creative.
9. Remove wheel, put in new phillips screw that should have come with your new, awesome, shiny rotors.
10. Reinstall caliper bracket with 19mm 12 point bolts.
11. With C-clamps or slip-joint pliers and an old brake pad, compress the pistons back into the caliper. Be sure not to clamp directly on the piston, use the brake pad as a buffer between the pliers and the piston. This will also ensure you compress both pistons at once, as pressing just one in will force the other out and you won't accomplish a whole lot. I found that this is not a good time to test your grip strength. Slow steady pressure works far better than an all-out squeeze combined with a war cry. Just let the stupid thing compress at its own slow pace. You may want to check your brake fluid level before doing this to ensure you don't overflow the resevoir. Mine was at the minimum level and after doing all 4 wheels it only raised to the maximum line.
12. Place new pads on rotor where old pads used to be. Slide caliper over pads. If it doesn't go on easily your pistons aren't compressed far enough. Secure caliper with 12mm bolts.
13. Now is a good time to drink a beer and admire the shiny newness.
14. Reinstall wheel and be happy the bottle jack didn't fall off the stupid rocks.
15. Repeat as necessary.
REAR WHEELS:
1. Very similar to front wheels with the following changes:
-19mm 12 point bolts are now 13mm 12 point bolts.
-Both 12mm bolts do not need to be removed, only the top one. The bottom can be loosened and the caliper tilted down.
-Only one piston which is far easier to compress than the front. Therefore less yelling and swearing is required.
For those interested I used the HP brake kit from Atlantic British which can be seen here:
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9542HP.cfm
The brakes take a bit to seat. I don't know the proper way to do this so I won't comment.
Hope this helps someone!
Brake Rotors and Pads How-To
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