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Old 11-08-2010, 11:22 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Can't open door (manually or with FOB) - dead battery?

Hey guys. I have a 2003 Disco II. I recently was having problems with the truck starting - doors would open with fob, but wouldn't turn over once turning the key in the ignition. It would start if I jumpstarted with another vehicle (leading me to believe the battery was dying/dead - or a bad alternator). Again - the doors would open remotely with the fob and the red light on the dash was flashing quite quickly, but wouldn't start.

I left it alone for the weekend and now the doors won't open with the fob - OR MANUALLY. As weird as this sounds, I promise you the key won't manually open the drivers door. The red light on the dash is not flashing anymore either.

I believe I have a totally dead battery at this point, but can't get into the truck to open the hood and replace it. I have searched and unsuccessfully tried a few things already.

1) hooked up a donor battery through the license plate lighting. one of my bulbs happened to be missing, so i hooked the red to the positive and the black to the negative. to my dismay, only that side tail light illuminated and I couldn't open the doors

2) tried to find the 3 screw access panel in the back of the passenger wheel well with no luck to splice into the positive cable

3) tried to power the truck through the trailer wiring. hooked the positive from the donor battery to the green and then the yellow trailer wires while the negative was hooked to the white trailer wire - nothing happened

Can anyone help? The handful of dealers that I have called and are actually aware of my situation, want me to tow it to them to break the lock mechanism and replace it entirely with new keys. Can I power the truck by hooking into the tail light wiring somehow? Can I splice into the positive battery wire under the truck? Can I hook the donor battery directly to the starter without actually starting the truck?

Thanks.
Josh
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Old 11-08-2010, 11:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I thought there was a way to get a pliers or tool into the grill to grip the cable and manually pull the cable to release the hood...I could be wrong and I'm not near the rover or the garage to verify..others may know. At least your not trying some jenky wiring solution that could compromise your elect system, a new battery maybe in order..


OH,,,There may also be a way to unlatch the rear barn door from the outside to get into the rover that way.
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Old 11-08-2010, 11:47 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Yes jump it at the starter, just put it on the large red power supply and ground.
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Old 11-08-2010, 11:51 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelen disco View Post
Yes jump it at the starter, just put it on the large red power supply and ground.
Nice solution.
Sounds better than the trailer wiring plug. That area can take the juice. Is this going to get juice to the battery to charge and / or crank it over to get started?
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Old 11-08-2010, 11:58 AM   #5 (permalink)
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It wont start without the key in the ignition, there is always 12 volts to the starter, it wont effect the starter to jump it as I stated.
I wouldn't backfeed power through anything like a light bulb or trailor wiring. Your just waiting your time.
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Just so I am clear, if I connect the donor battery directly to my starter, I should have the power required to open the door with the fob - correct?
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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So, it will charge this way then you can open the door and start?...sorry kinda slow today.

LOL! Jynx
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I just want to open the doors to replace the battery, not trying to charge it.
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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If your truck is "superlocked" you're probably screwed.

Lately, I've had to break more and more door actuators.
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Old 11-08-2010, 01:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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An update for anyone that searches and finds this thread......I made two mini 3' long jumper cables out of 10 gauge wire - one red and one black. Used 40 amp small jumper cable clips at one end and insulated alligator clips on the other end. I hooked the red/positive cable to the main large post on the starter and the other end to the positive side of the donor battery (that was just sitting on the ground under the truck next to me). I then grounded the negative of the donor battery to the frame (assure you have a good ground, scratch the alligator clip against bare metal until you see a few sparks). I was then able to use the fob to remotely open the doors (the key would not manually open it though). I popped the hood and threw in the donor battery. Luckily (I presume), my fob still worked as expected, the radio was fine and I didn't have to reprogram anything. I drove it around for a little to charge the donor battery.
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Old 11-08-2010, 01:52 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshgreen454 View Post
An update for anyone that searches and finds this thread......I made two mini 3' long jumper cables out of 10 gauge wire - one red and one black. Used 40 amp small jumper cable clips at one end and insulated alligator clips on the other end. I hooked the red/positive cable to the main large post on the starter and the other end to the positive side of the donor battery (that was just sitting on the ground under the truck next to me). I then grounded the negative of the donor battery to the frame (assure you have a good ground, scratch the alligator clip against bare metal until you see a few sparks). I was then able to use the fob to remotely open the doors (the key would not manually open it though). I popped the hood and threw in the donor battery. Luckily (I presume), my fob still worked as expected, the radio was fine and I didn't have to reprogram anything. I drove it around for a little to charge the donor battery.
You sir a smart man GREAT solution.

Here is some info on the super lock. Copy and pasted from a knowlegable member here as I know nothing of super lock. At the very least food for thought if anyone searches this thread in the future.

all quotes from the shop manual...

"NOTE: Disconnecting the battery while the alarm is armed triggers the alarm. Always disarm the alarm system before disconnecting the battery."

to late for that..

"The BCU uses the door latch switches to indicate if a door is open or closed. There is a door latch switch within every door latch assembly, including the tail door latch assembly."

"The driver's door lock actuator has a dedicated 12 volts power supply from the passenger compartment fuse box to energise the locking action of the door lock actuator. The passenger and rear door lock actuators share a 12 volts power supply from the passenger compartment fuse box to energise the locking action of the door lock actuator.
To perform the super locking action all the door lock actuators receive a 12 volts power supply from the passenger compartment fuse box.
To perform the unlocking action for all the doors, a 12 volts power supply from the passenger compartment fuse box is supplied to the door lock actuators."

"The BCU uses a plunger type switch to determine if the bonnet has been forcibly opened when the alarm has been set. The switch is located under the bonnet on the left hand side of the vehicle when viewed from the rear."

"Handset and receiver
The handset is incorporated in the key. It uses coded radio frequency signals to lock, unlock and super lock the vehicle remotely with a range of up to 10 metres (33 ft). The handset also mobilises the vehicle by transmitting a
remobilisation signal when the handset is within range of the passive remobilisation exciter coil."
"The BCU supplies the receiver with a 12 volts power supply. On receiving a valid signal from the handset, the receiver transmits a 1000 baud signal to the BCU to allow locking/unlocking of the vehicle."

more reading.

"The BBUS is located behind the rear quarter trim panel on the right hand side of the vehicle and is utilised as an additional alarm warning device. It has a self contained power source allowing it to operate when the vehicle battery
is disconnected.
NOTE: Always disarm the BBUS before carrying out any procedures related to the BBUS."

"Input/Output
The BBUS utilises a 12 volts power supply from fuse 20 (15 amperes) located in the passenger compartment fusebox via a relay to charge the self contained battery.
When the alarm is triggered, the BCU is pulled high internally triggering the BBUS to sound continuously for 30 seconds.
The BCU sets the BBUS to its internal battery backed mode when the vehicle battery is disconnected. If a mislock occurs the BCU triggers the BBUS for a period of 50 ms. The BCU triggers the BBUS once for a period of 50 ms when an EKA code is requested. When the EKA code is entered correctly, the BBUS will operate twice for a period of 50 ms on, 200 ms off. The BBUS utilises a dedicated earth path."

the BBUS is located in the rear cargo area. that is probably what you hear beeping. it is behind the trim panel, under the side window, but above the wheel well (passenger side if it's a NAS version)

what do you have flashing?

"A Light Emitting Diode (LED) situated in the instrument cluster indicates the condition of the anti-theft system and acts as a warning to potential thieves that the alarm system is activated.
Input/Output
The LED has a dedicated signal from the BCU to indicate the status of the following:

l Alarm armed: The LED flashes at 10 Hz with a 50:50 duty cycle for 10 seconds, after which the LED flashes 50 ms on, 2 seconds off until the state of the system changes.

l Engine immobilised: If the engine is immobilised and the ignition is on, the LED is illuminated continuously. If the engine is immobilised and the ignition is off, the LED flashes 50 ms on, 2 seconds off.

l Alarm tampered: If the alarm has been triggered, the LED flashes at 10 Hz with a 50:50 duty cycle.

l Handset battery low indicator: If the handset battery is low, the driver's door is open and the ignition is switched off, the LED flashes two pulses of 50 ms on, 50 ms off, every 10 seconds."

i can go on and on and on with this. you said the EKA gave you access and lets you start the engine, correct?

now, after all that reading you will hate my answer. because i'm piss'n in the wind on this one......... try shutting all doors and hood, lock the vehicle with either the remote or key itself (in door). wait a few minuets and then unlock the same way you locked it. it might work or might not.

oh yeah, from all the reading i did on this thing. the SUPERLOCK feature sucks. also it can be deactivated by the dealer. and there are a shit load options or configurations that can be programed for the alarm, and locking of doors. again, all done by the dealer.

i tried to help, but it probably won't work.

~Bill
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