Changing Rotors on DII

[DISCONY]

Hi,

We are to be changing rotors and pads (obviously) on my friend's G4 and I need some advice. I will be doing this for the first time ever on a Land Rover but I am a DIY guy and I will be doing it with another friend of mine who is a rally driver and he works on his cars, so I don't forsee any problems. BTW, he has a '96 land cuiser which he is biulding to wheel this summer as well.

Anyway, I just wanted to ask you folks if I should be expecting anything special when I do this. I bought Ferodo cross drilled and slotted Rotors and pads from AB. I don't forsee any comlications when installing rotors, but is there any special tratment for pads? Any advice is appreciated.

[02disco2]

It's pretty easy to do, shouldn't take more than an hour.. tops!

Don't forget to lube up the slides and you are good to go.

Also, don't forget to clean the rotors with a GOOD brake cleaner like 3M.

[AlaskaBound]

Useful info here...

http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showt...eferrerid=2871

[DISCONY]

Thanks for the link Alaska!

Yes, I will definitely use anti-seize and brake cleaner.

So the other thread on Dweb says that screws are not nessesary. I am a bit skeptical on that as what's their purpose then? I think I will still put them in. Are there any torque requirements for these screws?

[RockyRon]

Originally Posted by DISCONY

Thanks for the link Alaska!

Yes, I will definitely use anti-seize and brake cleaner.

So the other thread on Dweb says that screws are not nessesary. I am a bit skeptical on that as what's their purpose then? I think I will still put them in. Are there any torque requirements for these screws?

They hold the rotors onto the hub while going down the factory assembly line - - Prior to the axle assembly being installed onto the chassis. Most other manufactures use an internal star washer on one of the lug studs. Wouldn't want a rotor fallin on some assemblers head, would you?

[SCSL]

As I said, I would urge one not to replace the screws if the vehicle is to be taken off road. Having those screws in the rotors will make CV field "repairs" much more difficult, if not impossible.

Trust me on this one.

[DISCONY]

This Disco will not be taken off road for a while...like I mentioned in the D1 thread, my friend loves this truck and he wants to keep it shiny and scratch free for now.

Nevetheless, you are telling me that if I don't put the screws back in the brakes will function the same as if I did put them in? In that case I will leave them out.

[Disco Mike]

Leave the rotor screw in place, it does help keep some of the ABS problems at bay. Also remember to do a complete brake flush, I would suggest using Vavoline's synthetic brake fluid to off set the extra heat generated from the slotted and dimpled rotors.
Mike

[SCSL]

Originally Posted by Disco Mike

Leave the rotor screw in place, it does help keep some of the ABS problems at bay.

What ABS problems? And how does a screw thru the rotor help keep them at bay? The sensor is nowhere near the screw and there is no relationship between the two. The problems Disco's can suffer with ABS are typically electrical, not mechanical. Further, they are sensor- and/or hub-related. Have nothing to do with the rotors.

[Disco Mike]

Originally Posted by SCSL

What ABS problems? And how does a screw thru the rotor help keep them at bay? The sensor is nowhere near the screw and there is no relationship between the two. The problems Disco's can suffer with ABS are typically electrical, not mechanical. Further, they are sensor- and/or hub-related. Have nothing to do with the rotors.

Well, I hope you got that out of your system. Where were you educated in the mechanics of brakes?
Just to clear up a couple of things, more codes are thrown because of mechanical issues, such as brake dust and dirt, glazed rotors and or pads, burned brake fluid, warped rotors and in some cases after market pads and rotors then electrical issues.
As for the rotor screw, it does give stability to the rotor allowing less flexing of the rotor on the hub which is picked up by the sensor.
Mike

[Muddy Oval]

I'll disagree with the little tiny screw giving stability to a rotor - as the rotor is is hub centric and held in place by five nuts torqued in excess of 100ft/lbs.
It serves only the purpose of holding the rotor in place while the wheel is removed.

[Disco Mike]

Steve,
Good hearing from you, you may be right but this has been something I have heard a number of times over the year, be it right or wrong, at the time it made since to them and me so I rolled with it.
You take care,
Mike

[ChuckD]

The shop manual says to replace the rotor screw and to tighten it to 10 lb/ft.

I started my brake job yesterday and cannot get the 19mm twelve sided bolts that hold the caliper assembly to break loose. I soaked them with PB Blaster overnight and will soon try again to get them to move. Any other suggestions??

ChuckD

[SCSL]

Response to SCSL:

Originally Posted by Disco Mike

Well, I hope you got that out of your system. Where were you educated in the mechanics of brakes?

Response to Muddy:

Originally Posted by Disco Mike

Good hearing from you, you may be right but this has been something I have heard a number of times over the year, be it right or wrong, at the time it made since to them and me so I rolled with it.
You take care,
Mike

What gives, Disco Mike? Did I offend you in a prior life?

[TsiArt]

Originally Posted by ChuckD

The shop manual says to replace the rotor screw and to tighten it to 10 lb/ft.

I started my brake job yesterday and cannot get the 19mm twelve sided bolts that hold the caliper assembly to break loose. I soaked them with PB Blaster overnight and will soon try again to get them to move. Any other suggestions??

ChuckD

What I did was an pore mans impact wrench .
I hit the head of the bolt ( like it would be poting a nial into a beace of wood ) couple of times just to unload the stress a little and maybe brake up the rust under the head . 75% of the time it works .

I had bolts that I could not take of and I would snap of a crastmen braker bar , but I would hit the head of the bolt and with a $ store breaker bar i would un bolt it with less force . I picked up this trick from my dad .

A nother one is also using a hamer ( well two of them ) to take off the bole joints ( stearing is the one i had problems with ) . I would pot one hamer against the stering nuckle where the bolljoin sits in , and hit the other side of the knokle . Couple hits and the thing poped out by it self , and I did not had to use that stupit bolljoint tool that tares up the ruber boot for the bolljoint .

The idea behind that is that you momentarly make that knocle oval and since the tapered bolljoint is round . it just pops out .