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Old 12-07-2006, 01:22 PM   #16 (permalink)
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For what it's worth- I installed new screws when I did my brakes, with anti-seize on 'em. In the past, I've had to drill countless amounts of those after people tried to use screwdrivers on them.
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Old 12-07-2006, 01:54 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Default Rotor screw tool..

I had good luck with the rotor screws using an impact tool. The kind you hold and hit with a hammer. I used the largest Phillips attachment that came in the tool pouch. It fit the screws perfectly.

Thanks for info on breaking bolts loose. I'm still working on them.

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Old 12-07-2006, 03:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
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GOT THEM!! The hammer trick, along with a very long breaker bar did the job. Rotors all off, caliper cleanup and rebuilding underway. Should be back on the road next week. Thanks to all who helped.

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Old 12-07-2006, 03:22 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Nice! I will undergo this this weekeng hopefully and let you know how my adventure goes. Hopefully I won't have so much trouble removing the bolts since the truck is a 2004.
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Old 12-07-2006, 03:29 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Sears carries a decent impact hammer for around $25. Use the Phillips #3 bit and your golden.
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Old 03-01-2009, 12:49 AM   #21 (permalink)
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so was it ever decided if the rotor screws are necessary or not?
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Old 03-01-2009, 07:56 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Mike View Post
Leave the rotor screw in place, it does help keep some of the ABS problems at bay. Also remember to do a complete brake flush, I would suggest using Vavoline's synthetic brake fluid to off set the extra heat generated from the slotted and dimpled rotors.
Mike
I thought slotted and dimpled rotors REDUCED heat???
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